Need A Small Sawblade

[pelligrini]

I've used a dremel with a 1-1/2" blade before. It was really dangerous when doing deep cuts into 3/8" material, binding, kicking out, etc. I couldn't imagine trying to put a hand held 4" blade into 3/4" material. You might want to make some sort of edge fence for the drill. if you do try it.

A blade for one of the mini table saws might be what you're looking for. Micromark carries some 4" - 1/2" arbor blades. I guess dremel used to make a table saw.

20 TOOTH SAW BLADE (4 INCH DIA., 1/2 INCH HOLE)
40 TOOTH SAW BLADE (4 INCH DIA., 1/2 INCH HOLE)

Have you considered using a flat bottomed router bit to remove the sill material? Like one would when using a router to thicknesss a board. A simple base to ride on the window frame and the wood right above the brick might work.

[Uncle Cracker]

I think the Dremel blade chucked into your drill will get you there. I think it was Vermont American who used to make an arbor saw specifically for drill use. As I recall, it was about 2" across, but had a stouter 1/4" shank, rather than the 1/8" you're gonna get on the Dremel bit. I got one years ago at K-Mart on a blister card, but I can't find it (or I'd send it to you). I also checked the Vermont American site, and they don't show it, although somebody else still may sell one.

[charliex]

I see said the blind man.. I'd pick up my hand saw and take my time. That's the tool where you have to move your arm in an up and down motion, like you are sawing.
Chas

[gbtower]

If you put a wood spacer on the bottom of the window, enough to raise past the exterior wall, you could run a router on top of that (held sideways) to get it pretty flush. It'd be even easier if you could put another spacer/support under the sill.

[Tequila]

Now that I've seen the photo, it looks like a good job for the Bosch flush cut saw.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1640VS-F...0680442&sr=8-1

[Lonnie in Orlando]

Cabinetman -

Is this a "real" question, or just a reason to post one of your mystery tools!!

Based on the tools that I own, my vote is to cut thru the sill as deeply as you can (possibly with a grinder or router), then break off the remainder and clean up with a grinder / sander / plane.

But looks like a toe kick saw that was suggested earlier is the answer - may need a couple of extra hands to control it.

To answer your drill-blade question, here is a circular saw attachment for a 1/4" drill from the mid '50's. It's probably possible to remove the blade from the housing, then attach to a bolt and chuck into the drill. But as stated earlier, it'll have a mind of its own and will walk all over the place.

I bet you already have a plan in mind. Let us know the outcome.

- Lonnie

[rjwaldren]

I was in a harbor freight today and noticed this toe-kick saw for 39.00
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94626

The blades are 4.99 and look to have about a 1/2" arbor hole. Like many of the other advice - I'd suggest the safest tool rather than a open blade on the end of a drill.

Maybe this blade on an angle grinder would do it and still give the leverage to control it.

[cabinetman]

Now that I've seen the photo, it looks like a good job for the Bosch flush cut saw.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1640VS-F...0680442&sr=8-1

I did consider that saw, but this is a one time thing. Kinda expensive, but would more than likely work. Thanks for the suggestion.

Cabinetman -

Is this a "real" question, or just a reason to post one of your mystery tools!!

Based on the tools that I own, my vote is to cut thru the sill as deeply as you can (possibly with a grinder or router), then break off the remainder and clean up with a grinder / sander / plane.

But looks like a toe kick saw that was suggested earlier is the answer - may need a couple of extra hands to control it.

To answer your drill-blade question, here is a circular saw attachment for a 1/4" drill from the mid '50's. It's probably possible to remove the blade from the housing, then attach to a bolt and chuck into the drill. But as stated earlier, it'll have a mind of its own and will walk all over the place.

I bet you already have a plan in mind. Let us know the outcome.

- Lonnie

No, it's a real thing. The problem is having an unobstructed access to the front of the window flange. I may have to come up with another idea. A spinning blade on the end of a drill does sound a bit crazy.
.

[Salty]

I'd also suggest the multimaster. With the wide variety of blades available and the fact that the blade vibrates instead of spins, it would probably do the job well.
But, it would be an expensive purchase for a 1-time job.
Are there any local rental places that may rent a multimaster?

[Tequila]

I did consider that saw, but this is a one time thing. Kinda expensive, but would more than likely work. Thanks for the suggestion.

I have a love/hate relationship with mine. I thought is too expensive for what it was when someone bought it for me as a gift. I almost never use it, but when I do pull it out, it's because I've got some stupid situation where no other tool will quite do. And in spite of how much of a single purpose tool it is, it manages to get me out of at least a couple jams a year.