Want to get first (and only) nailer

[mburdette]

I've wanted a nailer for a long time. We're finally starting some projects where I can maybe justify the purchase.

I'd be using it for basic home projects like trim, shelves, etc. Would also use it in the shop for various projects as they come up. I know they can be great as that 'extra hand'.

I really want it to be able to connect 2x4s. I talked to a guy from church who has a lot of tools... he thought 18g would be too small, that 16g would get me to the 2x4 level, but also allow me to use smaller nails for trim, etc.

I like to gather information and feel confident before I spend money. That's why I'm posting this.

I do have an air compressor.. but I can see how electric would be more convenient at times.

I'd appreciate ANY advice or insight - products or brands to avoid; any particular bargains out there. Would you stay clear of 'off brands' like Harbor Freight's house brand, or Cummins? (we have a Cummins in our town, and Harbor Freight isn't too far away).

What about used? Would you hesitate to buy a used nailer from, say, Craig's List? I got some great deals on Ryobi 18V tools on CL.

Thank you for any help. I appreciate it.

[radhak]

First of all, no source if off-limits. CL is a great place to get awesome deals; people have had very good experience at HF too; I personally have retrieved a very nice PC router out of a 'to be thrown' heap in my neighborhood , so even the trash (of somebody else) is good...

At the same time, when you do get it, better check and examine for problems and jams etc, at least before you start using it. I feel that goes even for nib from HD etc .

That said, the 16g should suffice for you. Dunno what sort of 'trim' you are planning, but the average crown-molding is good for the 16g. Might be a tad big for internal, fine-furniture trim.

If you have a compressor, why are you eyeing any non-air nailer? An air-nailer is the best bet, i'd think.

[Sawatzky]

It would be best if you could get a 18 guage brad nailer and a 15 guage finish nailer. This way you have the smaller nailer for small things, and the bigger nailer for building cabinets and larger projects. You can get small nails in the 15 guage size, but the hole will be quite large. Another option is a 16 guage gun, but you loose flexability. I have both the brad nailer and finish nailer, and would be lost without them. The brad nailer gets the most use, but for building anything substantial, a finish nailer is a must. If you want to nail a lot of 2x4's and such, you should really look at a framing nailer. But all they do is frame - nothing small. As far as brands go, I use Bostitch and have been very happy. Porter Cable, Paslode, and Senco are also good professional brands. I bought one of my nailers used on e-bay and have had no trouble with it. You might also want to check out harbor Frieght. Their brad nailer is often on sale fo less than $20.00, and those that use it have been very happy.

[Kristofor]

When you say 2x4 are you talking about something structural? 16 gauge wouldn't make me very confident in the integrity of any framing, but it could be used to tack 2 boards together while you attached other fasteners ...

I generally use my brad nailer more often than the finishing nailer. They can be interchanged for some tasks but there are areas where one or the other is really called for.

5 our of 6 of my nailers are Porter-Cable and they seem fine. I also have a HF 18g brad nailer that I think was $15. It's not as nice, but it works well too and it's cheap if you're not sure you're really going to need/use one. One word of warning, don't get the combo brad/stapler model as it apparently makes big divots with a full width striker even when shooting brads.

[sweensdv]

All of the mentioned points are very valid and helpful. The difficulties begin with the title of your thread as there is no one nailer that does all the jobs you'll come across. I agree with Sawatzky that your best option would be to buy both a 18ga brad nailer and 15ga finish nailer. This 18ga brad nailer and this 15ga finish nailer will set you up for under $100.

[LinuxRandal]

I wish I would have saw this before I left. I just came from YOUR HF location (over by the soon to be opening Metro Hardwoods, that is the new retail section for Liberty Hardwoods). They had the brad nailer on a middle isle display, on sale (didn't catch the price). These are fine for trim work on furniture, and trim work in a house when they go into structural. These are NOT good for framing in structures, wether supporting or non supporting. For NON STRUCTURAL building (false walls in the basement, etc) and other trim work, I would recommend a 15 gauge angle nailer (angle nailers, allow you into tighter spots). For structural (sheds, garages, buildings), buy or rent a framing nailer. (may be more cost effective)

I would look at Costco locally, if you don't have a compressor (they had a setup the other day), and Amazon.com. I would also check out tool rental places (heard HD may be selling off some older tools, haven't checked yet).

[eezlock]

first and only nailer?

If you are doing mostly trim work and shop type projects, an 18 ga. brad nailer will do about anything that you would need. If you paln on doing
heavy framing, outdoor decks, fences etc. better off getting something heavier than that.

As to brands...well, I wouldn't go crazy and spend a lot of money on one.
I have two 18 ga. brad nailers, one from HF and one from Big Lots I bought a couple of years ago, they work fine and do the job with no problems.
Remember one thing about all air tools, to make them last longer and run trouble free, they have to have a clean, dry air supply source ( no moisture)
it can kill an air tool faster than you can blink your eye! Next thing, use some
good air tool oil, to keep them lubricated on a regular basis. eezlock

[Jim1]

Check Lowe's for clearance nail guns. I just bought a Porter-Cable combo box which contained a 15 g angled nailer and an 18 guage gun for*****69******Good Luck!!

Jim

[kevincan]

Campbell Hausfeld has a 3 nailer kit that the are selling for $139 for a reconditioned set. It includes a framing nailer, finish nailer and a brad nailer.

I have a brad nailer and a finish stapler from Campbell Hausfeld and I have not had any problems with them.

http://www.chpower.com/webapp/wcs/st...egory_rn=10657

Kevin

[tkarlmann]

15-16 brad nailers for 2x4's

That was the first thing I did with my first nailer, a 15 or 16 ga brad nailer -- was to use 3" or so brads to fasten a couple of 2x4's together. Not good.

You can try all sorts of fancy toe-nailings and such, but the bottom line is the brads are not stiff enough to structurally connect 2x4's. And they tend to pull out too when stressed.

(See my other thread) I am just getting acquainted with my framing nailer -- but I intend to use it to put an addition on my house.

One nailer will not do all jobs required.

I hope this helps.

[LCHIEN]

I consider that there's about 4 basic sizes of nailers, no one can do all.
Framing nailers for attaching framing using 2x4s.
15 or 16 Ga finish nailers for larger finishing use
18 Ga. brad nailers for lighter duty one-by work
23 ga. pin nailers for fine work

[gabedad]

I had gotten the 3 gun porter cable setup with pancake at borg for 299 or whatever and then added a bostitch framing nailer for $80 or so off craigslist. That's the first place I would check.

[mashtun]

Want to get first (and only) nailer

I have a cambell Hausfeild brad nailer. I have probably run through several thousand brads, with no problems at all.

Several weeks ago I was a Loews and saw a 3 nailer Cambell Hausfield nailer ser for $198. It had a 16 GA Nailer, a Finish Nailer, and a Brad nailer.

John

[docrowan]

I bought the Arrow ET200 Nailmaster 2 electric brad nailer when it first came out a couple of years ago. It can shoot 4 lengths of 18 gauge brad's from 5/8" long up to 1 1/4" long. I bought it because I don't have an air compressor and I wanted to be able to pin 3/4" plywood carcases together during glue-ups. I've found it's also handy for trim work on floor molding.

I believe if your pocket book can stand it, you'll be happier with a pneumatic set up. The electric just doesn't have quite enough power to set the 1 1/4" brads all the way in 3/4" plywood. I wind up having to tap them in the rest of the way with a hammer and nail set. It also draws a LOT of amps for a split second. If you've got a fair draw already on a circuit, it definitely won't drive all the way, plus it dims your lights. Also, I don't think there is an electric nailer made that will handle framing chores like nailing 2x4's together.

I'm keeping my electrical nailer for whenever I'll do trim jobs inside, especially small jobs or in someone else's home, but eventually I'd like to go pneumatic.

[LCHIEN]

I bought the Arrow ET200 Nailmaster 2 electric brad nailer when it first came out a couple of years ago. It can shoot 4 lengths of 18 gauge brad's from 5/8" long up to 1 1/4" long. I bought it because I don't have an air compressor and I wanted to be able to pin 3/4" plywood carcases together during glue-ups. I've found it's also handy for trim work on floor molding.

I believe if your pocket book can stand it, you'll be happier with a pneumatic set up. The electric just doesn't have quite enough power to set the 1 1/4" brads all the way in 3/4" plywood. I wind up having to tap them in the rest of the way with a hammer and nail set. It also draws a LOT of amps for a split second. If you've got a fair draw already on a circuit, it definitely won't drive all the way, plus it dims your lights. Also, I don't think there is an electric nailer made that will handle framing chores like nailing 2x4's together.

I'm keeping my electrical nailer for whenever I'll do trim jobs inside, especially small jobs or in someone else's home, but eventually I'd like to go pneumatic.

Yup, stay away from electrical brad nailers and staplers. They draw a lot of power but only for a brief impulse as they have no energy storage. Pneumatic nailers have more umph because the effort of several seconds of air compression is significant stored energy that can be released quickly compared to electrical solenoids that can only suck power at the instant of nailing.

And while at it, in you effort to be one-nailer-for-all, avoid the combo brad nailer and stapler, for reasons explained before, the driver hammer is staple-shaped and will leave not a nail head sized hole in the wood, but a staple sized dent which looks bad.