I've had my PC690 series router (with all 3 bases) for about 6 years. For the most part, I've been very happy with it. If I were to buy a new router today, I'd probably opt for something with more features, but the PC690 has proven to be a respectable router.
The only real problem that I've had (and I suspect that others have had the same problem) is that the "wingnut" to lock the height isn't always able to be tightened enough with hand pressure, so over the years I've ruined a couple of workpieces because the bit height changed while routing. I've gotten in the habit of cranking it tight using a pair of pliers as an extension for leverage.
While looking through Carol Reed's "Router Joinery Workshop" book, I saw that she used a ratcheting lever to modify the base of a PC690 to solve this problem. I decided to copy her solution, with some modification. I wanted a solution that used parts that are inexpensive and fairly readily available. The cost of modifying each base is less than $5. (This may seem like a $5 solution to a $1 problem.)
Here's what I did:
-I drilled out the holes in the "ears" of the base to 5/16" (the factory holes are 1/4", you can probably get the parts that I used in 1/4" sizes but 5/16" seem more prevalent and I had most of what I needed on on hand.)
-I put a 1 1/2" long Rockler 5/16" t-bolt through the holes.
-I then made a spacer from 1/2" copper pipe about 1/2" long so that the ratchet lever isn't bound by the "ear".
-I capped this with a flat washer and a female 5/16" ratcheting lever from Grizzly (Rockler and Woodcraft also carry these, but after looking at all 3 the Grizzly seems to be the best and the prices were all about equal.
Parts list:
Rockler t-bolt 1 1/2" (#36677) 5 for $4.79
Grizzly 5/16 female ratchet lever (#G7322) $2.95
1/2" copper pipe - scrap
5/16" flat washer, probably about $.10
Note: I did try using a 5/16" male ratchet lever and a female t-nut, but the male ratchet levers that are readily available weren't long enough. Longer studded and better ratchet levers were available from McMaster-Carr, but the cost was more that I wanted to spend.
Sorry this got so long-winded.
The only real problem that I've had (and I suspect that others have had the same problem) is that the "wingnut" to lock the height isn't always able to be tightened enough with hand pressure, so over the years I've ruined a couple of workpieces because the bit height changed while routing. I've gotten in the habit of cranking it tight using a pair of pliers as an extension for leverage.
While looking through Carol Reed's "Router Joinery Workshop" book, I saw that she used a ratcheting lever to modify the base of a PC690 to solve this problem. I decided to copy her solution, with some modification. I wanted a solution that used parts that are inexpensive and fairly readily available. The cost of modifying each base is less than $5. (This may seem like a $5 solution to a $1 problem.)
Here's what I did:
-I drilled out the holes in the "ears" of the base to 5/16" (the factory holes are 1/4", you can probably get the parts that I used in 1/4" sizes but 5/16" seem more prevalent and I had most of what I needed on on hand.)
-I put a 1 1/2" long Rockler 5/16" t-bolt through the holes.
-I then made a spacer from 1/2" copper pipe about 1/2" long so that the ratchet lever isn't bound by the "ear".
-I capped this with a flat washer and a female 5/16" ratcheting lever from Grizzly (Rockler and Woodcraft also carry these, but after looking at all 3 the Grizzly seems to be the best and the prices were all about equal.
Parts list:
Rockler t-bolt 1 1/2" (#36677) 5 for $4.79
Grizzly 5/16 female ratchet lever (#G7322) $2.95
1/2" copper pipe - scrap
5/16" flat washer, probably about $.10
Note: I did try using a 5/16" male ratchet lever and a female t-nut, but the male ratchet levers that are readily available weren't long enough. Longer studded and better ratchet levers were available from McMaster-Carr, but the cost was more that I wanted to spend.
Sorry this got so long-winded.
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