PC690 router base modification

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  • os1kne
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2003
    • 901
    • Atlanta, GA
    • BT3100

    PC690 router base modification

    I've had my PC690 series router (with all 3 bases) for about 6 years. For the most part, I've been very happy with it. If I were to buy a new router today, I'd probably opt for something with more features, but the PC690 has proven to be a respectable router.

    The only real problem that I've had (and I suspect that others have had the same problem) is that the "wingnut" to lock the height isn't always able to be tightened enough with hand pressure, so over the years I've ruined a couple of workpieces because the bit height changed while routing. I've gotten in the habit of cranking it tight using a pair of pliers as an extension for leverage.

    While looking through Carol Reed's "Router Joinery Workshop" book, I saw that she used a ratcheting lever to modify the base of a PC690 to solve this problem. I decided to copy her solution, with some modification. I wanted a solution that used parts that are inexpensive and fairly readily available. The cost of modifying each base is less than $5. (This may seem like a $5 solution to a $1 problem.)

    Here's what I did:
    -I drilled out the holes in the "ears" of the base to 5/16" (the factory holes are 1/4", you can probably get the parts that I used in 1/4" sizes but 5/16" seem more prevalent and I had most of what I needed on on hand.)
    -I put a 1 1/2" long Rockler 5/16" t-bolt through the holes.
    -I then made a spacer from 1/2" copper pipe about 1/2" long so that the ratchet lever isn't bound by the "ear".
    -I capped this with a flat washer and a female 5/16" ratcheting lever from Grizzly (Rockler and Woodcraft also carry these, but after looking at all 3 the Grizzly seems to be the best and the prices were all about equal.

    Parts list:
    Rockler t-bolt 1 1/2" (#36677) 5 for $4.79
    Grizzly 5/16 female ratchet lever (#G7322) $2.95
    1/2" copper pipe - scrap
    5/16" flat washer, probably about $.10

    Note: I did try using a 5/16" male ratchet lever and a female t-nut, but the male ratchet levers that are readily available weren't long enough. Longer studded and better ratchet levers were available from McMaster-Carr, but the cost was more that I wanted to spend.

    Sorry this got so long-winded.
    Attached Files
    Bill
  • sweensdv
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2002
    • 2860
    • WI
    • Baileigh TS-1040P-50

    #2
    I tried that setup for a year or two and found the ratcheting lever to be a pain to use after awhile. For me, it had to short of a turning radius which made tightening under the router table difficult. I ended up going to a cam clamp similar to this one sold by Hartville Tool. Rockler and Lee Valley I believe also sell similar cam clamps.
    _________________________
    "Have a Great Day, unless you've made other plans"

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    • os1kne
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2003
      • 901
      • Atlanta, GA
      • BT3100

      #3
      Thanks for the feedback. The Grizzly ratcheting lever seems to be working very well, the Rockler ratcheting lever didn't seem to operate as smoothly.

      Thanks for the tip on the cam clamp. I didn't think that there would be enough range for it to work in this application, but I haven't tried it. The cam clamp does seem like it would be the best solution.
      Bill

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      • LCHIEN
        Internet Fact Checker
        • Dec 2002
        • 21071
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #4
        the Cam clamp is what PC went to when they updated the PC690 to the PC690LR version (LR=Lever release) a couple of three years ago.

        I think a lot of PC690 users hated that thumb screw.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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