DeWalt DW618 bearings

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  • cgallery
    Veteran Member
    • Sep 2004
    • 4503
    • Milwaukee, WI
    • BT3K

    #1

    DeWalt DW618 bearings

    I get an intermittent bearing noise, especially when I've cut power from the router and it is spinning down.

    Anyone ever replace the bearings on their router? Especially a DW618?

    Is it a major PITA?

    I imagine service facilities end up charging $75 to $100 to do this, am I wrong?
  • Bruce Cohen
    Veteran Member
    • May 2003
    • 2698
    • Nanuet, NY, USA.
    • BT3100

    #2
    Funny you should ask,

    I just went thru that procedure. In my case, and maybe your's too, under the top bearing (there's two, one on top and one on the bottom) there's a "magnetic ring", which slips on the armature shaft before replacing the bearing. The ring has something to do with the speed control, and mine shattered. But the noise was there at rundown.

    To remove either the bearing, which you have to do to replace the ring anyway, you need a bearing puller. one with a thin set of arms, as there's not much rom between the bearing and the ring. To get to the assemblu, just remove the four torx screws holding the top plastic "cap" onto the body.

    I used a drill press (unplugged) to press the new bearing back on.

    I'm giving you Dewalt's usernet web site url, where you can download an exploded view of the router and a parts list, there's also a locator for finding a local service center to do the work for you. Shouldn't cost too much, the bearing is $6.00, and the ring is $2.50.

    I would have had them do the work, but they were backed-up for 3 weeks and I was in the middle of a project. You could probably have a local auto parts place or someplace that repairs electric motors to do it for you also.

    BTW, you can also order the parts on the same site, but the shipping was twice the price of the parts.

    The exploded drawing shows the ring (it has a collar) direction when replacing, but it doesnt show which side the blearing goes gack on. It's the all metal side up.

    Good luck,

    Bruce
    "Western civilization didn't make all men equal,
    Samuel Colt did"

    Comment

    • cgallery
      Veteran Member
      • Sep 2004
      • 4503
      • Milwaukee, WI
      • BT3K

      #3
      Originally posted by Bruce Cohen
      I'm giving you Dewalt's usernet web site url, where you can download an exploded view of the router and a parts list, there's also a locator for finding a local service center to do the work for you. Shouldn't cost too much, the bearing is $6.00, and the ring is $2.50.
      Thanks Bruce!

      I think you forgot the link. Any chance you could post that? I could probably find a link but then if I have questions it would be nice if we were both looking at the same drawing.

      Comment

      • Bruce Cohen
        Veteran Member
        • May 2003
        • 2698
        • Nanuet, NY, USA.
        • BT3100

        #4
        Sorry bout that, old age and the usual stuff

        http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/ServiceNet/logon.asp

        If you need more help after, PM me

        Bruce
        "Western civilization didn't make all men equal,
        Samuel Colt did"

        Comment

        • cgallery
          Veteran Member
          • Sep 2004
          • 4503
          • Milwaukee, WI
          • BT3K

          #5
          The diagram shows two bearings (which makes sense I guess). It sounds like the one you replaced was pretty easy to get to.

          How did you know that only that bearing needed replacing? Is it a common failure? I'd hate to replace only one bearing to later find out I needed both or the other.

          I wonder how difficult it is to get to the larger bearing that is closer to the bit. It would be nice to just remove the three screws that hold on #28, and the nut, and then get to the bearing.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by cgallery; 07-28-2007, 09:28 PM.

          Comment

          • cgallery
            Veteran Member
            • Sep 2004
            • 4503
            • Milwaukee, WI
            • BT3K

            #6
            The research I've done on Google seems to indicate that the larger bearing, (the one closer to the bit) is the one that typically goes. So I guess I'll concentrate on that one first.

            Anyone have a suggestion for a puller? Seems most of the pullers out there are for larger components. Any shop-made contraptions?

            Comment

            • Andrew Benedetto
              Veteran Member
              • Mar 2003
              • 1071
              • SoCal, USA
              • Unisaw w. 52"Bies,22124CM & BT3K

              #7
              HFT has a small puller. $8
              http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=7343

              set $50 but goes on sale
              http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93980

              The first one should work, I would lube the shaft , and ice it too if it is tight, or heat the bearing since it is trash anyway.
              Andrew

              Comment

              • cgallery
                Veteran Member
                • Sep 2004
                • 4503
                • Milwaukee, WI
                • BT3K

                #8
                Originally posted by Andrew Benedetto
                HFT has a small puller. $8
                http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=7343

                set $50 but goes on sale
                http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93980

                The first one should work, I would lube the shaft , and ice it too if it is tight, or heat the bearing since it is trash anyway.
                Thank you.

                I did end-up taking the router to the service facility. Twice.

                The first time they put a new bearing on but when I got it home, I found out that the shaft lock didn't fully engage (bearing was pressed on too far). Also, the bearing looked a little dished.

                So I took it back and they said they would press it a little further. That was just the counter guy and I suspected that the tech working on it would see that it didn't need to go any further!

                I heard a lot of banging and noise in the back of the shop. I think when they were done they replaced the armature because the threads look a little different than my original one. Also, the bearing no longer looked dished.

                But I don't know for sure. It all worked out.

                In hindsight, had the unit not been under warranty I woulda probably left it at a "watch" and tried to determine how long I could go between oilings.

                Again, I've seen posts elsewhere from people that routinely lubricate their bearings w/ a drop of oil or two. Seeing as grease is just soap (not real soap, but that is what they call it) and oil, adding oil shouldn't be a problem as long as the bearing holds enough of the oil to keep it functioning correctly. The only function of the soap is to keep the oil in the bearing, right?

                But with a three year warranty it would have been stupid to keep oiling it.

                Thanks to everyone for their help.

                Comment

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