Souter bit shank size?

[GaryA]

Why would anyone, given the choice, choose a 1/4"" shank over 1/2" (if they had collets for both)? For instance, was looking at beading bits: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...filter=beading and I was just under the impression that 1/2" is more stable, and just curious on whyat, if any benefits for a 1/4" bit?? Thanks

Oops...typo for those wondering what a "Souter" bit is...

[ragswl4]

I can't think of any benefits that a 1/4" bit shaft has over a 1/2". The 1/2" bits have more strength, stability and balance. There is also the much more surface area being gripped by the collet on a 1/2" bit which adds a safety factor. I have both sizes and wish I had been a little more informed when I first started buying bits. Most of my 1/4" bits just sit in the toolbox. The only time I use one is if I don't have the bit in 1/2".

[gsmittle]

I'm sure somebody with far more experience will explain this better than I can, but here's my stab at an answer:

1/4 shank for small-diameter bits, like 1/8" and 1/4" straight bits or solid carbide. I had two 1/4" straight bits on a 1/2" shank, and I broke off both of them in short order. I don't have any solid carbide bits that small, but I've read that the 1/4" shank is less likely to break.

Also pattern bits, flush-cuts, etc. for light-duty use with a laminate trimmer. I've had my lam trimmer for two months now, and I can't believe how many times I use it in a day for small jobs.

Most of my bits are 1/2" shank, especially rabbeting bits, large straight bits, etc.

I don't think I'd ever put something like a 3/4" rabbeting bit or a panel raiser with a 1/4" shank in my router for any reason. Too much metal spinning on too small of a shank!

g.

[crokett]

1/4" shank bits are cheaper. Plus the smaller bits do just fine with 1/4". I have a 1/8" roundover, v groove and cove bit all at 1/4" and they work just fine.

[cabinetman]

I'm like Davey. I use mostly 1/4" shanks. I use rabbet bits, all sizes up to 3/4" straight cutters (mortise) bits, roundover up to 1/2", and various profile bits. There are many profiles not available with 1/2" shanks. Large roundover (radius) bits up to 1 1/2" and the long trim bits with double bearings have 1/2" shanks, which I use regularly.
.

[RodKirby]

For a little guy like me , I want a light-weight router for hand-held work. 1/4"-only shank routers are always lighter than the 1/2" variety.

The biggest 1/4" bit I've used in my trusty Ryobi RE150 and Makita Trimmer is a 3/4" straight bit - small bites - no problems.

I only go hand-held if I have no choice. Since both my Table routers are 1/2" (Triton of course), I only buy 1/2" bits - if available.

I have never broken a 1/4" bit - so there

[jackellis]

I have the HF dovetail jig, which requires a 7/16 OD template guide in order to make half-blind dovetails at 1/2" spacing. It's hard for me to imagine using dovetail bits with a 1/2" shank for that application in my very substantial Bosch 1617 router.

[L. D. Jeffries]

The only time I use 1/4" bits is when the profile I need is only made in 1/4", or when I'm using my laminate trimmer. All of my other bits are 1/2", for most of the reasons posted above. Not that much difference in price, so why not!

[gsmittle]

I have never broken a 1/4" bit - so there

See, this is part of the reason you have achieved GLS (God-Like Status). I bow before you and your unbroken router bits and ultra-clean shop and impeccable workmanship, sir.

I, a mere mortal, am not worthy.....

g.

[ragswl4]

The only time I use 1/4" bits is when the profile I need is only made in 1/4", or when I'm using my laminate trimmer. All of my other bits are 1/2", for most of the reasons posted above. Not that much difference in price, so why not!

Amen! Brother. Size does matter.

[LCHIEN]

i find no basic difference in price between 1/4 and 1/2 shank bits in the larger sizes I use most. MLCS, Holbren, and others same price for a 30 piece or 66 pieces set between the two sizes.

For moast all bits, esp the larger ones I am much more comforted using the bigger shanks beacsue their cross section areas is 4x bigger and stronger, leading to more stability, less vibration etc.

Only small bits and those with real narrow sections (like a 1/2" dovetail bit) do I get with 1/4" is there is no 1/2" shank avail.

I have seen some pictures of routers with bent 1/4" shanks - once a bit gets out of kilter (balance, etc) the 20K RPM will generate trmendous centrifugal forces and tear things (bit included) apart.