Router table position on new Jet cabinet saw??

[GaryA]

I'm in the process of assembling my new Jet 10" JTAS-10 right tilt cabinet saw (see pic below). I'm currently working on the extension table & rails, but not sure how I should position the extension table (which has the cutout for the XACTA router lift) since I am putting the right side of the saw against the wall. Either way (unless I make a new table and turn the insert the other way), I'm going to be to the side of the infeed (is that a problem???). So, should I get the insert closer to the blade, or closer to the wall/end of the saw?

Thanks

[ragswl4]

I would think it would be rather difficult and probably not safe to use the router in that position. I always stand in front of and slightly to the right of center of the table. Any long pieces on the router table would certainly become difficult to handle.

[LarryG]

I'm pretty sure I was the first (maybe the only) to suggest you could turn the extension table around, as you have it in the photo.

What you will have with this setup is basically identical to the arrangement David J Marks has, except his router is about six or eight inches farther to the right, i.e. more distant from the blade. He taped 91 episodes of WoodWorks with it, which I'd say is a pretty fair indicator that it works just fine.

I don't understand your "I'm going to be to the side of the infeed (is that a problem???)" question, unless you mean that you will only have access to the router from the infeed side of the saw. If that's what you mean ... yes, that's true; but it's also an unavoidable consequence of putting the right end of the saw against a wall. It would be better, in a perfect world, to be able to move freely around at least three sides of the router but if you can't do it, you can't do it.

And no, it's not a problem. I've had essentially the same setup with my standalone router table for the last three years, and it's never been a problem -- although I should add that it is only about 24" across, so the horizontal reach is a little shorter. Still, I see absolutely nothing wrong with a setup like this. If I did, I wouldn't have suggested it. It's exactly like feeding a workpiece across a table saw ... that's all done from one side only, right?

You could feed the router from the other side of the saw, but that's going to be virtually the same scenario. The only difference will be where you place the fence when you're routing.

If you turn the table around to the "normal" position, but still leave the end of the saw against the wall, access will be no better and the infeed/outfeed clearances will probably be much reduced.

I'm a little surprised the lift cut-out is as close to the end of the table as it is ... I'd have guessed it would be set back at least a few more inches. Doesn't matter, just an observation.

Bottom line, what your photo shows is the way I'd do it, and the way I'm going to build the new extension wing for my own new cabinet saw. Again, when the space constraints of one's shop dictates placing the right end of the saw against the wall, I know of no better solution short of moving the router elsewhere, to a table of its own.

[GaryA]

Larry - yes, you were the inspiration to move the insert away from the wall and put the right side against the wall. Thanks for that - I think its going to work out great.

I think my only original concern was that I was thinking that to safely or efficiently operate the router, that I needed to be facing it head on, and thought maybe I needed to re-build the extension table to allow the insert to turn 90 degrees facing the operator side of the saw.

Thanks for the advice - I'm going to go for it.

[drumpriest]

Gary, if I am correctly understanding your setup, it'll be very much like mine. My router fence is parallel to my table saw fence, and I feed into the router in the same manner as I do my table saw. This is perfectly safe, and I have had no issues with doing this for the past year or so.

In fact, I think I like it better than when I had a separate router table, it's much more convenient. Here's a pic of my older BT3 version...



And here's the new one on the pm2000

[drumpriest]

btw, from the other thread, I think I forgot to answer one of your questions, which was how did I get the image from grizzly's tool. I just did a screen grab via the prtscn button, and chopped out the important part in a photo editor.

[LarryG]

.... thought maybe I needed to re-build the extension table to allow the insert to turn 90 degrees facing the operator side of the saw.

Of course, with the bit being round, it really doesn't matter which way the insert is oriented ...

The only possible issue I see is the horizontal reach distance, across the saw's front rail, to the bit area. Rags posted his reply while I was composing mine ... the standing position he describes, off the right front corner of the table, is optimal for most cuts. The limitation here is that you can't move forward, past what you'd consider the front of the table, because the saw is in the way. As I said, I've not found that to be a problem on my current router table; but as I also said, it's only 24" wide, so it's only 12" to the bit centerline.

Keith, it looks like you have your insert centered on the front-to-back dimension of the extension wing, which puts the bit about 18" from where you stand. Have you found that to be problematic in any way?

[GaryA]

Thanks Keith. I love your setup. Did you build the router table wing for your PM yourself? I like the large adjustable fence (did you make or purchase that one also?). I think I'm definitely going to need to beef up the fence that came with mine. I am inspired now about this setup though.

I was reading last night on David Mark's saw after your comment Larry. From DIY tour of his shop:

"In David's shop, the router table is an extension to the table saw (figure N). This setup was established for two main reasons. The first is to maximize space. The combination of the two large work areas allows for the handling of larger pieces of stock. Secondly, with this setup a common precision-fence can be used for both tools."

Thanks guys!

[drumpriest]

Larry, I really haven't had any issues with it.

Gary, The PM2000 is nice in that it's nearly the size of the rockler table, so the rockler fence fit nicely, and yeah, I built it. Would have been bigger, but for what I had to do with the DC to get everything working in the space I have. Again, next shop.

I don't use the table saw fence often with the router because of the DC issues, but for doing dado work, it's a great option to have.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I would suggest placing the insert closer to the wall than to the blade. This will put your RT fence closer to the wall and reduce the number of times you have to remove it for larger TS cuts.

My RT has a clamp on fence so I can mount it on either side. I usually use the outside mounting allowing me to stand in the position that folks are describing as most comfortable/safest. When I do raised panels or larger pieces such as table tops, etc I reverse the fence mounting and allow the TS to be used as support. WOrks very nicely. It is not quite as comfortable as the other position, except for larger work pieces.

Again, I would mount with insert closest to the wall. I would also consider installing miter track or otherwise figure out how to install feather boards to keep work firm against fence.

[drumpriest]

Jeff, mine is where it is for a very specific reason, I couldn't make the table any larger. But even if I could, I'd keep the router plate where it is, and just extend my fence slots further. That allows for the router table fence to be positioned well out of the way, but also gives you the most room for routing dado's referencing from the fence, or the TS fence.

[GaryA]

Anybody have any experience with the XACTA router lift? I have the Craftsman Professional tabletop router table: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

that I bought a couple of years ago when they went on clearance at $50. The problem is, it was dropped in our move (ouch), and the tabletop is now warped. I was going to re-build, but now that the XACTA lift came with my new Jet saw as a bundle, I was thinking of scraping it all together (??). The fence that comes with the XACTA doesnt seem very flexible, and is stationary (I haven't installed and tried it yet though) - wondering if I should salvage the Craftsman fence (and maybe power switch) to use on my XACTA...or if I should re-built the Craftsman because it will fill some need I may have outside of the XACTA lift/table? Any thoughts?

Thanks!

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Anybody have any experience with the XACTA router lift? I have the Craftsman Professional tabletop router table: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

that I bought a couple of years ago when they went on clearance at $50. The problem is, it was dropped in our move (ouch), and the tabletop is now warped. I was going to re-build, but now that the XACTA lift came with my new Jet saw as a bundle, I was thinking of scraping it all together (??). The fence that comes with the XACTA doesnt seem very flexible, and is stationary (I haven't installed and tried it yet though) - wondering if I should salvage the Craftsman fence (and maybe power switch) to use on my XACTA...or if I should re-built the Craftsman because it will fill some need I may have outside of the XACTA lift/table? Any thoughts?

Thanks!

I would not scrape it. I would but a new table top on it. Two layers of MDF with a laminate top and you are good to go. Maybe $20 total.

I am not crazy about the Xacta lift (though I have not put my hands on it yet). I was incredibly close to cancelling my order and getting the model with the mobile base that was cheaper and getting a different router lift. Went to do it last night but price was back up on the model with mobile base. The Xacta is the older Jessem Lift that has a standard universal plate. While it is cool that darn near any router will fit in there, the way the route is mounted creates a situation that will prevent above table bit changes. It can also result in bits that when properly seated in the collet are not tall enough. Seems a collet extension would be in order.

I didnt think about the fence being stationary. I think that maybe a problem. Can you confirm that? How quickly does it attach/reattach?

[GaryA]

Hmmm...interesting on the bit change issue. I probably wont get around to putting mine together until next week. I got that Hitachi 3 1/2hp router...so I'll have to figure out the collet extension (anything special I need here or just anybody's 1/2 and 1/4 collet extension?).

I just looked at the XACTA again...its not stationary as I thought... there is about 2" of play in the fence (towards and away from the bit opening) with the clamping knobs loosened. Its a pretty easy change...just thread the two knobs into the pre-threaded holes in the insert...they only go in on one location (would have been nice if they threaded a couple of different locations).

[GaryA]

What about this extender? http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B000EXQ...pf_rd_i=507846
??