Jointer Questions

[crokett]

And a stealth gloat. Just moved a 6" Rigid into my shop. A little rusty but he'd never used it. The label is still on the fence.

Anyhoo - after derustification, anything other than make sure the fence is square to table and in/outfeed tables are aligned? Also, it can run at 120/240. Need to verify it is wired at 120 but is it worth rewiring for 240? This would include pulling a line to the shop. Any issues with tying this in to the dryer circuit? I'd just make sure I wasn't running it when the dryer is on.

[LCHIEN]

And a stealth gloat. Just moved a 6" Rigid into my shop. A little rusty but he'd never used it. The label is still on the fence.

Anyhoo - after derustification, anything other than make sure the fence is square to table and in/outfeed tables are aligned? Also, it can run at 120/240. Need to verify it is wired at 120 but is it worth rewiring for 240? This would include pulling a line to the shop. Any issues with tying this in to the dryer circuit? I'd just make sure I wasn't running it when the dryer is on.

Yeah, right up there in importance, making sure the knives top of travel is even with the outfeed table top/.

Shouldn't really see any significant performance difference at 120 than 240, assuming your circuit can deliver 15 Amps and the wiring is good.

[Tom Hintz]

I reviewed the Ridgid jointer a while ago and it has drawn good comments from users.
As for converting it to 220V, as mentioned there is no performance gain at the jointer. The major reason I change a 110V to 220V is to make use of the 220V circuit I already have in the shop to take pressure off my 110V circuits.

I have a story about setting up and using a jointer at the link below if you are new to the machine.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/usejntr.html

[crokett]

Bookmarked the link. It is some good reading. I won't bother wiring 220 then. I have 2 20A in my shop for tools and since it is just me I won't be taking anything away from the other tools.