2HP motor on HF bandsaw?

[eddy merckx]

Hi all.

I bought a used 6" jointer off of Craigslist for really cheap. The condition of the sale was that I also dispose of his table saw. It (the table saw) is a nothing special contractor's saw of Taiwanese origin, all covered with paint splatter. I am just going to donate it to Goodwill. It does have a 2hp motor which will fit into my HF bandsaw(currently 1hp). Can anyone think of a reason this wouldn't work? The new motor housing is about the same size as the stock motor and the pulley would line up fine. It seems like this would be an improvement.

Any thoughts?

Eddy

[TheRic]

Safety is the main thing that comes to mind. The thing was designed (OK I'm using that term loosely on a HF BS) for a 1 HP motor. If something starts to bind, what is going to give? AND the start to bind would probably be later on the time line.

Also need to take into account Rev's are they they same?

[blame]

what seems to be an improvement could turn out to be a nightmere
main things i would look at are the rpms and the pulley dia. you may get lucky and find the 2 motors have the same shaft size then its just a matter of gitting everything lined up where vibrations are at a min. then test it out
just be careful and watch how the saw runs under no load

blame

[eddy merckx]

Also need to take into account Rev's are they they same?

They are both rated at 3450 rpms Ric. I was thinking that a higher HP motor would have less tendancy to lug down on heavy cuts. I have read postings from people scheming to upgrade their BS motors to avoid this, although I haven't read about anyone who's actually done it. Hadn't considered the safety viewpoint. I do know that there are various bandsaws using the same Taiwanese casting, and sporting different size motors.

Eddy

[eddy merckx]

you may get lucky and find the 2 motors have the same shaft size then its just a matter of gitting everything lined up where vibrations are at a min. then test it out
just be careful and watch how the saw runs under no load

They appear to be the same diameter shaft, blame. I was hoping to re-use the pulley from the existing motor, but I could always buy another. The pulley on the 2 hp motor is about 1/2" larger in diameter, so I think it might overspeed the saw.

Eddy

[Ken Massingale]

They appear to be the same diameter shaft, blame. I was hoping to re-use the pulley from the existing motor, but I could always buy another. The pulley on the 2 hp motor is about 1/2" larger in diameter, so I think it might overspeed the saw.

Eddy

The direction of rotation is somewhat important, also.

[cabinetman]

I've had a few 14" bandsaws, both in 1HP and 2HP, and the motor speeds on both sizes were 1725 RPM's. I would check the specs of your bandsaw to see what the recommended motor RPM should be. I would do that before spending time with a 3450 RPM.

[Garasaki]

The motor RPM really dosen't matter.

What you need to do is make sure the blade (not too familiar with bandsaws so I don't know the correct term...arbor speed? tooth speed?? dunno) is moving the same speed as it was before. That's the important bit.

You do this by matching the motor output pulley to whatever it hooks up to.

If you are replacing a 3450 rpm motor with another 3450 rpm motor, make sure the motor pulleys match (or like you were planning, just use the one that's already there). If the new motor rpm is different just get a diff size pully (math involved there... rpm of motor 1/rpm of motor 2 = pulley size motor 1/pulley size motor 2 ... I think ... verify that...)

Personally I don't see any problem at all with what you are proposing. And I think you got a steal of a deal probably, considering a jointer and a 2 hp motor (not cheap!!)...

[eddy merckx]

Thanks guys. Cabinet Man was right, the original motor is 1750 rpm. It is a 4 speed saw though, so I can reduce the speed a bunch.

Ken, I'm pretty sure both motors run counter clockwise, viewed from the pulley side.

Garaski, thanks for the encouragement. After I finish my current several projects, I'll give it a try and post the results. If no one hears from me again, assume it didn't work out (kidding).

Thanks for the thoughtful responses, as always!

Eddy

[cabinetman]

The motor RPM really dosen't matter.

What you need to do is make sure the blade (not too familiar with bandsaws so I don't know the correct term...arbor speed? tooth speed?? dunno) is moving the same speed as it was before. That's the important bit.

You do this by matching the motor output pulley to whatever it hooks up to.

If you are replacing a 3450 rpm motor with another 3450 rpm motor, make sure the motor pulleys match (or like you were planning, just use the one that's already there). If the new motor rpm is different just get a diff size pully (math involved there... rpm of motor 1/rpm of motor 2 = pulley size motor 1/pulley size motor 2 ... I think ... verify that...)

Personally I don't see any problem at all with what you are proposing. And I think you got a steal of a deal probably, considering a jointer and a 2 hp motor (not cheap!!)...

The problem with that theory is you may not be able to size the pulleys enough one way or another, to get the speed right.
.
.

[LCHIEN]

The motor RPM really dosen't matter.

What you need to do is make sure the blade (not too familiar with bandsaws so I don't know the correct term...arbor speed? tooth speed?? dunno) is moving the same speed as it was before. That's the important bit.
...

Its the linear speed of the blade, measured in FPM (feet per minute)
usually WW bandsaw you want about 3000 FPM.

I posted the calcs here in the last month or so in another thread.
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...light=FPM+band

In my opinion te biggest danger in the "Tim Taylor" conversion
is the possibility of a jam or lockup or near lockup of the BS wheels. In that case the frame will see a full 2 HP instead of 1 HP trying to break it down. If the belt gives, then its OK, the blade (if the upper wheel is stopped or the blade jams in the wood) may give..mmm, well OK. If the frame gives, stand back real fast.

You're putting a much bigger motor in a frame that was not designed for it.

[eddy merckx]

OK you guys talked me out of it. If I'm going to kill myself, I want it to be in some spectacular fashion, not from a bandsaw motor. Maybe tropical cliff diving instead.

As always, thanks so much for the advice.

Best wishes,
Eddy

[Stan]

I'm going to throw in that I would make the upgrade in a heartbeat.

I just can't imagine a blade, even 3/4", not breaking before there was enough torque to break the upper wheel arm.

I would also imagine the blade slipping on the lower drive wheel -- again before there was enough torque to do damage. Unless of course you have enough tension on the blade to not allow the blade to slip on the wheel -- which IMHO would be way too much tension.

Just my $0.02 worth.

[LCHIEN]

I will agree with Stan that both the belt and the blade should break well before the frame...

Anyway, I posted the speed calculations with a diagram here:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=29979
in case you do it.

[mpc]

One other thing to consider is the load carrying ability of the wiring and power switch of the bandsaw. A 2HP motor is going to draw roughly twice as much current than a 1 HP motor (assuming fairly equal efficiencies... maybe not a great assumption given the wide variation in cheapie/import motor quality) which might tax the wiring/switch. If you can determine the wire guage (size) it's easy to look that up in a chart and find the safe amperage.

mpc