Pocket hole problem

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  • ragswl4
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 1559
    • Winchester, Ca
    • C-Man 22114

    #1

    Pocket hole problem

    I am trying to assemble face frames with pocket holes and I am experiencing splitting near the end of the stile when I drive the outside screw through the rail and into the stile. The stile splits. I am not having this problem with the inboard screw, just the one near the end of the board. Here's what I have done so far.

    Contacted Tech support at Kreg and they sent me (free) a package of #6 pan head screws (smallest available) that they felt would solve my problem as they have had this issue come up before and this was the solution. It made a smaller split so that wasn't the answer. This is a very dense wood I am using and I think that is primarily the problem. My first thought is to drill the pocket screw hole and then a pilot hole for the screw where it enters the stile but I foresee that as a problem as the pilot hole has to be dead center and at the correct angle.

    I am driving the screws at a slow speed and with a low clutch setting. I have driven about 20 test screws at different speeds and clutch settings and it splits every time.

    Ha anyone out there experienced this problem and found a solution? Thanks.
    RAGS
    Raggy and Me in San Felipe
    sigpic
  • drumpriest
    Veteran Member
    • Feb 2004
    • 3338
    • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
    • Powermatic PM 2000

    #2
    Yes, this will happen with hard woods. You need to take care in your spacing for a face frame. I use 2" face frame material, and a spacing that is about 7/16" in from the edges. That same internal spacing in 1/2" material (resulting in 3/16" from the edge, results in splitting the material.

    What is your face frame width and pocket spacing?
    Keith Z. Leonard
    Go Steelers!

    Comment

    • LCHIEN
      Super Moderator
      • Dec 2002
      • 21736
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #3
      Originally posted by drumpriest
      Yes, this will happen with hard woods. You need to take care in your spacing for a face frame. I use 2" face frame material, and a spacing that is about 7/16" in from the edges. That same internal spacing in 1/2" material (resulting in 3/16" from the edge, results in splitting the material.

      What is your face frame width and pocket spacing?
      I think the god of the drums is right, you need to set the spacing so the
      outside screw is farther from the end. Hardwoods tend to split. period.

      You don't say how far you are from the end, but you don't have to center the jig in the rail. Or, consider using glue and one screw if there's not enough width to the rail to off-center two screws be be farther from the end of the stile.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment

      • Tom Hintz
        Senior Member
        • Feb 2004
        • 549
        • Concord, NC, USA.

        #4
        When I use pocket scres in smaller stock that tends to split I run the screw in with my power driver until it is nearly seated, then snug it down by hand so I can apply just enough pressure to close the joint. So far, that has solved splitting problems for me in the really hard (brittle) woods.
        Tom Hintz
        NewWoodworker.com LLC

        Comment

        • ragswl4
          Veteran Member
          • Jan 2007
          • 1559
          • Winchester, Ca
          • C-Man 22114

          #5
          Face frame with is 2" on the rails and 1 5/8" on the stile. Stiles are splitting. I positioned the pocket holes as far from the end as I could but it still split.

          I'll try to hand tighten the screws to see if that will work, otherwise I think the idea from Loring will do it as I have never split the wood with the inboard screw so that with the glue may be the best option.

          I used dowels on the first face frame, which worked well but is too time consuming for the number of frames that I have to make.

          Thanks for the ideas.
          RAGS
          Raggy and Me in San Felipe
          sigpic

          Comment

          • ragswl4
            Veteran Member
            • Jan 2007
            • 1559
            • Winchester, Ca
            • C-Man 22114

            #6
            Not Elegant but It Works

            Determined to use pocket holes screws on my face frames I came up with this. At Lowes, I got a 3/8" nylon spacer with a .171" diameter inside hole. This fits snugly into the pocket hole and allows me to drill a 1/8" pilot hole thru the rail into the stile (end screw). Its accurate, tight fit and no splitting. Means I have to drill 4 extra holes but at least I can now use the pocket screws. Thought this might help others who experience this problem.
            Last edited by ragswl4; 12-20-2008, 04:10 PM.
            RAGS
            Raggy and Me in San Felipe
            sigpic

            Comment

            • drumpriest
              Veteran Member
              • Feb 2004
              • 3338
              • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
              • Powermatic PM 2000

              #7
              there is another possibility, you should be using a clutched driver when assembling pocket hole joints. If you overdrive the screw, it WILL split the workpiece. Getting the correct settings for your clutch usually takes a couple of pieces of scrap and about 1 minutes time.
              Keith Z. Leonard
              Go Steelers!

              Comment

              • footprintsinconc
                Veteran Member
                • Nov 2006
                • 1759
                • Roseville (Sacramento), CA
                • BT3100

                #8
                there seem nothing more to add. i would agree that you would have to drill a pilot hole since you are close to the edge. i like you solution for guiding the bit.

                have fun drilling!
                _________________________
                omar

                Comment

                • jbalders
                  Established Member
                  • Oct 2003
                  • 298
                  • Vienna, VA, USA.
                  • BT3100 + Shopsmith

                  #9
                  You could possibly leave the stiles long (like 1" or so), assemble the face frame and then cut it down to size.

                  I'm not certain whether you'd have problems with it splitting after it's cut, but it seems to me that the majority of the stress is when you're actually driving the screw.

                  Either way, it'd be worth a try.
                  Jeff

                  BOFH excuse #360: Your parity check is overdrawn and you're out of cache.

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