Jointer Blade Alignment

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  • ragswl4
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 1559
    • Winchester, Ca
    • C-Man 22114

    #1

    Jointer Blade Alignment

    With some advice from others on the forum and using Lorin's ideas on alignment and jigs and accuracy, etc... I made this jig for aligning my HF Jointer blades. While the jig is rather crude, it works great and proved to be accurate and give repeatable measurements when removed, re-installed and re-zeroed. Initial measurement showed the worst error between the blades was .020 (blade #1 inner to blade #3 outer)

    I first zeroed the two dial indicators on the outfeed table, then set the height of both ends of all three blades to that zero reference. All settings are now within +/- .001. Could have stopped at +/- .002 but wanted to be as accurate as possible and I had an extra two hours with nothing to do. Takes patience but worth it. Gives me nice edges now with no light between the jointed boards. WHOOPEE!!!! Now I can start on those cabinet doors right after I go back and check all those nuts to make sure they are tight.
    Last edited by ragswl4; 12-20-2008, 03:10 PM.
    RAGS
    Raggy and Me in San Felipe
    sigpic
  • jarhead
    Senior Member
    • May 2004
    • 695
    • Boynton Beach, FL.

    #2
    Great job on the jig... those flat dial indicator tips probably would have made it easier.

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    • burrellski
      Established Member
      • Dec 2005
      • 218
      • Saint Joseph, MO.

      #3
      That looks great. Glad to hear you had success. My guess is the flat indicator tips would make it a lot easier. Looks like you've got it clamped to the rabbiting shelf on the in feed table? Maybe clamping to the out feed table and lowering the in feed table out of the way would improve accuracy even more?

      Comment

      • ragswl4
        Veteran Member
        • Jan 2007
        • 1559
        • Winchester, Ca
        • C-Man 22114

        #4
        I wanted to do exactly as you suggested but due to the design of the outfeed table there was no easy way to clamp the jig there. Before I started aligning the blades I raised both tables to exactly the same height using the jig, clamped the jig and then zeroed the gauges. Worked great. Afterwords I used the jig to lower the infeed table by .010 and jointed edge and surface of one board. What a joy to see it come out perfectly flat with a 90 degree edge. Felt like I hit the lottery.

        Wouldn't have gotten there without folks from this forum, thanks to all. As far as the flat disks on the tip, guess I am just a gluten for punishment.
        RAGS
        Raggy and Me in San Felipe
        sigpic

        Comment

        • LCHIEN
          Super Moderator
          • Dec 2002
          • 21981
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #5
          Originally posted by ragswl4
          I wanted to do exactly as you suggested but due to the design of the outfeed table there was no easy way to clamp the jig there. Before I started aligning the blades I raised both tables to exactly the same height using the jig, clamped the jig and then zeroed the gauges. Worked great. Afterwords I used the jig to lower the infeed table by .010 and jointed edge and surface of one board. What a joy to see it come out perfectly flat with a 90 degree edge. Felt like I hit the lottery.

          Wouldn't have gotten there without folks from this forum, thanks to all. As far as the flat disks on the tip, guess I am just a gluten for punishment.
          Having to align the round nose contact tip and the top of travel of the jointer blades does indeed qualify you for glutton for punishment, especially since you have two at a time.

          I have an article on how to make your own flat contact tips for practically nothing (or gives a place to buy them for $4.20 each plus shipping) if you'll PM me.

          Another suggestion for your jig:
          Looks like you drilled a 3/8" hole for the dial gauge shaft and made a friction fit. THere's always a chance of slippage and if you take them in and out of the jig they'll get looser.

          I do this: I use the bandsaw to slice a vertical slot from the end of the holder through the hole and go another 1/4" or so past the hole. I then drill a small pilot hole through the side between the end of the holder and the 3/8" hole. I enlarge the hole on one side. Then use a small screw that goes about 3/4 the way through - the enlarged hole clears the screw shank and threads but the threads engage the smaller part of the hole in the far side. This screw, when tightened then pulls the split tight around the shaft of the Dial gauge and it won't go anywhere. It can be loosened and the drill gauge removed and stored for protection.
          Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-07-2007, 02:38 PM.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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