carbide tip missing. Anyone - ideas why?

[Im A Little Petunia]

Check this link
I ordered the 'FINISH BLADE' - 10", 80T. It has a -5 deg. hook.

Thanks Scorrpio - I'm on my way there now to check it out.

Lynn

Addition: After you try the blade out please post and let us know how you like it, the pros/cons etc. Thanks

[scorrpio]

I have it on my RAS, and it produces very clean crosscuts.

[Holbren]

My primary TS blade is a Ridge Carbide TS2000, bought from Holbren ... worth every penny of $65 I paid for it.

$65 The rent must have been due or something. I was thinking of running them again but not at that price, that's just nuts.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

$65 The rent must have been due or something. I was thinking of running them again but not at that price, that's just nuts.

Regular price $89.95 - 10% is a great deal on a very highly regarded blade. BUT if you ran a sale on them I would be required to buy one.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Check this link
I ordered the 'FINISH BLADE' - 10", 80T. It has a -5 deg. hook. They had it on sale at that moment, so I think I paid $60 total. I put it on my Craftsman RAS, and so far am very pleased with the quelity. The blade is completely unmarked, but teeth have a high-quality look about them.

I am glad the blade is working out for you. Did you have recommendations from others on this blade? I personally would not pay $70.00 for an new unproven blade from a company such as MCLS whose main stay, router bits, have marginal performance.

[scorrpio]

Yup, $65. Here's the thread from 6/28/2006:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=21956

Ridge Carbide TS2000
I am putting the Ridge Carbide TS2000 blade on special next week for $69.95 delivered which is gettng to the point of making no money on them.

I wanted to give you guys first crack and I'll take another $5 off making the special $64.95 to the BT3 folks.

I have thin kerf and regular kerf. Just send me a PM if interested.

I have ordered a number of products from MLCS, and never had problems. Have to say though, for router bits, I only bought Katana. Dunno about their regular ones, Katanas ae working out VERY well.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I have ordered a number of products from MLCS, and never had problems. Have to say though, for router bits, I only bought Katana. Dunno about their regular ones, Katanas ae working out VERY well.

For some reason the WW rags never compare the Katana line of bits. I do note that the Kantana line is currently on sale at MLCS. I need an undercutter bit. Maybe I'll give the Kantan a try.

[Kristofor]

Hi Jeffrey:
That makes me feel better. I bought two of them (the cheaper ones), so I am going to try the other one tomorrow to see if it has runout - if I am understanding what runout is. Then if it doesn't at least I will have a blade to use until a new blade arrives. Thanks
Lynn

Lynn, something else to check for the cause of your "swirls" is to make sure that your fence is aligned properly. If the back is angled in just slightly the rear teeth can rub on the way up.

If you're going to setup a test for runout you can pretty easily check your alignment at the same time. Normally I'd measure the distance from the fence to a tooth at the front of the blade then rotate to the back and check the distance again. If the numbers don't match then you have a problem. If all of the teeth do this the same way, your fence is out of alignment. If only some of them do this or some varry in the opposite direction (closer in front than in back on some, vs. closer in back than in front for others) then you have a runout problem either with the blade, how it's sitting and/or tightened on the arbor, or with the arbor itself. If the old blade didn't leave the swirls then I guess it would be reasonable to assume that it's the blade first, but it never hurts to check your alignments.