Decoding Freud blade model Nos.

[LCHIEN]

All this Freud talk always has me confused.
Bottom up,
TK is the hobby grade line,
Diablo is the construction grade
Avanti is better and
Premier is the best.
Right?

Blades starting with TK are the TK line

The blades starting with "L" are the industrial line that confuse me the most
I see LU- mostly, maybe I've seen LM?
then there's a 2-digit code, like 80, 82, 83, 85, 88, what's that mean?
And a letter, usually R ? (Red teflon coating? or maybe just Round as opposed to the square series?)
and a 3-digit number like 010? Diameter in inches - why not mm since they're Italian?

How do I tell the difference between a LU88R010 and a LU85R010?
Everyone rattles the numbers off (Dustmight, others) but they just look like numbers to me. Is there a code? is it random?
Crosscut, rip, combo, thin kerf, # teeth, tooth type, hook angle - are they all encoded? or do you just have to know...

[Knottscott]

Good luck decoding it! It's not overly intuitive, but here goes AFAIK - The TK line got rebadged as the Avanti line a year or so ago....one in the same. The Diablo line is made to similar standards as the Avanti line but is marketed more towards the construction crowd. Both lines are exclusively TK's AFAIK.

The Industial line is the next step up and includes the LU and LM's...LM typically being a rip blade, but the LU87 is an exception. They have alot of blades in this series for alot of applications, and it spans from the budget end, to true industrial use, to world class performers. The 80, 82, 84, 85, etc., is just part of the model number of the Industrial line, no indication of teeth, hook, grind, kerf, application, etc. The "R" does indicate the red Permashield coating..."M" after the number indicates that there is no red coating, but I have seen it apply to a black coating on some of their older models from a couple of years ago....more often than not it means no coating at all. A "10" or "12" at the end of the number indicates blade diameter. ie: LU85R012 is their full kerf 12" ultimate cutoff blade with red coating, the LU85R010 is the 10" full kerf version, while the LU74R010 is the TK version of the LU85....the LM72M010 is their full kerf 10" FTG ripper with no coating, while the LU87R010 is the TK version which used to be an ATB grind but recently switched to an FTG. Not confused yet? ...there's an LU72 in the mix just to keep us on our toes! The LU88R010 is their thin kerf 10" 60T crosscut blade w/Permashield, which has a positive hook angle and is suitable for a TS, while the LU91R010 is their 10" 60T TK crosscut blade with negative hook and is better suited for a SCMS, CMS, or RAS. The LU82M010 is a full kerf 60T TCG all purpose blade with little in common with the LU88 or LU91. The LU83 and LU84 are their TK and full kerf 50T ATB/R combo blades. The LU86 is their TK 40T general purp blade...good value IMO, but it doesn't hang with the F410 or P410 40 toofers from their Premier line, but there are several that will...like the LU88, LU80, and LU85. (subjectively of course!)

Their Premier line is their top end, but is limited to just a handful of models like the new P410 Fusion (with Permashield coating but no "R"!), and formerly the F410 (no coating and has a different grind than the P410). It also used to include the F810 which is now the LU80R010 80T Hi-ATB laminate/veneer/ply blade...the LU79 is the TK version of it.

The Industrial line includes thin and full kerf blades but it's not possible to tell from the model number. It's not possible to tell the hook angle or tooth grind from the model either....familiarity is the only way I know of. To make matters worse, their website isn't overly helpful IMO, but it will lead you down a road that will make you think it's helping select a blade....might as well ask the neighbor lady. I really, really wish they go for a worldclass website. I'm sure there's more to the story but that's all I know of it. Good blades, usually good value, confusing model numbers, and a confusing website that can do more harm than good IMO. Thank God for Al Gore and his internet!

[fastfoodkills]

Freud TK806 80T High ATB Blade

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has had experience with this blade. My goal is to eliminate tearout as much as possible with birch ply and chipping with melamine. For $54.00 is this a worthwhile investment or do you think I'd be better off with a higher end blade?

Thanks!

Tom in Saugus, CA.

[Knottscott]

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has had experience with this blade. My goal is to eliminate tearout as much as possible with birch ply and chipping with melamine. For $54.00 is this a worthwhile investment or do you think I'd be better off with a higher end blade?

Thanks!

Tom in Saugus, CA.

Hi Tom - The TK806 has an ATB grind an a high tooth count going for it, but it's my opinion that the best blades for reducing tearout/chipout in those materials have a Hi-ATB grind combined with a high tooth count. Ie: Freud LU79 (thin kerf) or LU80 (full kerf), Infinity 010-060 (60T) or 010-080 (80T), Forrest Duraline or WWI, or the CMT 255.080.10 ITK (review) are a couple of good examples. The CMT is on sale for $66 shipped, the 010-060 is ~ $70 plus s/h.

One thing I like about the Infinity 010-060 (review) is that it's pretty flexible about what type saw it's used on, offers the performance you need, and is very versatile for other tasks. It gives a taste of dedicated blade performance but can do much more. The Forrest WWI is similar but tends to cost a lot more. The others will do a great job of the task at hand but don't offer much versatility.

You can further cut down on tearout/chip by using a ZCI, taping the bottom of the cut with painter's tape, or scoring the bottom of the cut with a partial pass before completing the thru cut....or all of the above.

HTH

p.s: For anyone who's interested, Freud is now offering an "ICE" clear coating on all their blades that don't get the red Permashield coating. Freud has updated their website since this thread started. Also, most of you may know that Bosch has bought Freud's blade and bit business.

[SARGE..g-47]

Does that ICE on the blade help keep it cool, Scott? I got one a while back with the ICE coating for my 12" SCMS and when I went to put it on... I got frost-bite on my fingers.

And for anyone that might think I'm asking Scott a serious question... Don't as I'm just ribbing him a bit.

But.. on a serious note Scott... I have not seen Charlie Mac post lately around the horn. Have you or do you know he is still with Freud since the deal with Bosch? And BTW.. the more and more I use that Oshlun 40 T the more and more I like it as it's a great blade for $25 from Brian at Holbren.

[Knottscott]

Hi Sarge - Yeah... they need to post a warning about frost bite with that ICE.

I've noticed a decrease in Charles' postings, and he didn't answer my most recent email (several weeks ago), but just when I wondered if he's out of the picture I spotted some posts (or at least one). Dunno for sure...

See ya!

[sweensdv]

I can't remember exactly when but I saw Charles M. post on the WoodNet site not that long ago. I believe it was within the last couple of weeks and he still was posting with the Freud logo avatar. I obviously have no way of knowing whether or not this is the case or not but with the sale of the blade/bit division to Bosch maybe he can't/won't be answering questions about that product any longer.

[SARGE..g-47]

Thanks Scott and Dave. And you may very well be right about a different role at the company Dave. Charles didn't attend IWF last fall in Atlanta and that is the first time I have seen him missing at a large industrial show. I did talk to him latte and he simply said his duties were broader now and he had to stay back in N.C. and sit out the show to keep up so.....

If I get a chance this week.. I may call Freud just to satisfy my own curiousity..

Regards...

[Mr__Bill]

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has had experience with this blade. My goal is to eliminate tearout as much as possible with birch ply and chipping with melamine. For $54.00 is this a worthwhile investment or do you think I'd be better off with a higher end blade?

Thanks!

Tom in Saugus, CA.

Tom, I have that blade and on the BT3000 it works well, not too much tearout on the ply but there is some chipping with melamine so I tend to not use it for that. I think that at $60 or so it's a good buy. I have used dedicated melamine blades with lots of little teeth and a much higher price that worked well but not for that long. I have accepted that melamine will chip and kill a blade fast so I tend to use the $6 HF blades (on sale with coupon) for the melamine and general purpose work.

Bill, on the Sunny Oregon Coast

[fastfoodkills]

Knottscott, Mr. Bill -Thanks for the tips! That CMT blade sure is tempting @66 shipped. It's at the max of my budget, but there's little doubt that I should pick up at least one decent plywood blade. The HF blades for the melamine are a good idea - I killed a 60T blade cutting that stuff awhile back and the chipout was pretty bad, even with masking tape and ZCTP.