Drill bit set - recommendations

[p8ntblr]

I've always just used cheap sets in the past. Usually what ever was on sale at HD. I inevitably break some to most of the bits and find it cheaper to get another set than replacing the individual bits. I'm thinking it may be more economical to get a better set that will actually last longer. I'm looking for metal and masonary as well as wood bits. Any recommendations?

These ones look pretty promising for the metal set and they're 20% off right now. wacha think?
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1969-...084727&sr=1-34

[LCHIEN]

If you are breaking a lot of bits then I would say you are using poor techniques. I rarely break bits. I also use a drill press 99% of the time. I can sharpen most normal bits. Sharp bits will cut without excessive force; dull bits with excessive force and non-perpendicularly applied forces (hand drill) will break bits.


I would buy sets of drill bits for intended purposes.
Do you work extensivly in wood, same Q for metal?
Do you need a fine selection of bit sizes - for common furniture and stuff, probably the 7 sizes in 16ths from 1/8 to 1/2 will work, but if you make jigs and stuff with slip fit, precision holes and axels and stuff then you will want 1/64ths or even numbered and lettered bits.

Me I work in both metals and wood.
I like to build small gizmos and jigs.

So I have 1/64th indexed set bits from 1/16th to 1/2" in
(1) 118° point bits
(2) brad point bits
as well as
(3) numbered and lettered + fractional bits
All in HF Drill master brands.

and I keep a set of good quality 7-piece (1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2") brad point bits by the DP for general use.

and a set of HF Drill master forstners from 1/4 to 2-1/8" by 16ths.

If mostly in wood the HSS bits are OK, if working in metal, then the
TiN bits help some and don't cost a lot extra, even tho the coating on the tip gets used up fast, the coating on the side helps reduce friction and heating.

I find the HF bits are true and accurately sized. And relatively inexpensive.

I have a Drill Doctor and can repoint the 118° bits.

However, the brad points are often not perfectly centered, a minor disadvantage - and they cannot be repointed by the Drill Dr.

One day I'll find a set of 135° bits. I also keep looking in Europe for a cheap set of mm-sized bits but I haven't yet found a harbor freight store in the cities i frequent or the duty-free shops in the airports.

If I had to do it over (and I still might) I've been looking at the Lee Valley brad point sets for my exclusive woodworking use.

As for masonry bits, I bought just one, a 1/4" masonry bit that serves for most brick, mortar, concrete or clay pottery things including some masonry anchors I bought that fit that size.

Also I have specialty bits - a number of countersinking bits for beveled holes, and screw countersinking pilot bits that drill the pilot hole shank hole and countersink hole in one go, some self centering Vix bits (I have yet to use) and (straight and tapered) plug cutter bits.

I have step bits for drilling clean holes in thin materials and a couple of auger bits, and also some spade bits which I use for very rough carpentry only - not what I call a woodworking bit. And a few really long bits (12-18" long in 1/4 and 3/8" sizes) bought on clearance for that day when I'll really need one to go all the way through a wall or through the center of a long piece.

[RodKirby]

If you are breaking a lot of bits then I would say you are using poor techniques. I rarely break bits. I also use a drill press 99% of the time...

I agree. I have most of the bits Loring talks about, as well as 1mm thru 13mm in .5mm (sort of the metric equiv. of 1/16 -1/2 in 1/64ths).
I often use a 1/16" bit for pilot holes for nails in hardwood - haven't broken one yet. Just have to be very careful and patient.

I'm too lazy to sharpen bits and I find I use 1/8", 9/64" and 11/64" more than others - I buy these in packs of 5.

I'll bet Loring also uses his digital calipers as much as I do

[LCHIEN]

...

I'll bet Loring also uses his digital calipers as much as I do

Invaluable in checking bits sizes and the size of items that you need to drill a hole for. I personally own, I think, four of which 2 are HF.
The first two are 1) a plastic body one which is accurate but kind of sloppy sliding and has no depth tail. Had for 12 years when it cost me $50 orig.
and 2) an earlier pre HF unit that the display is fading now.
If you drill a lot of holes you want to be accurate, you should have one.
I think i got the 2nd HF one when they dropped the price to $16, I just had to have another.

One project I worked on for boy scouts was the puzzle game (like Cracker Barrel has on every table). Uses golfing tees into holes on a wood base.
I bought a bunch of wooden tees and measured them. I found that
if you drilled a hole big enough for all of them to fit, you had this board with tees fitting loosely and leaning every which way, which (to me) made it look like the holes were inaccurately drilled. The tees had quite a variation in the shank diameter.

My solution:
I measured and sorted by size range every tee with the caliper.
I then got the numbered drills which had steps were about every 4-5 mils diameter (IIRC)
I drilled boards with the correct sized drill so the tee stood up very straight with no lean and you could shake the board with very imperceptible rattle. After I used up the smallest tees I moved up to the next bit size and used the next group of tees that would fit.

They were perfect - maybe I was anal but with like 1-5 mils clearance they all slipped in the holes with little or no slop and looked and felt like a real precision item.



Kind of anal but everyones games looked and fir perfect.

[RodKirby]

There is a convention in Oz - "millimeters" is abbreviated to "mils"

I have to throw the "inch" switch when I'm reading the US posts

[thrytis]

I have a smaller set of the Dewalt pilot point bits. I got them as a gift and thought that i would never use them because i have a bunch of twist bits (a couple of random brands i've picked up various places). They're my favorite set now - i don't touch any other set unless i don't have one of that size or need two of the same size at the same time. They cut cleaner and faster than any of my other ones. They also have a flat side to the shank so they won't spin if the chuck isn't tight enough.

[jziegler]

There is a convention in Oz - "millimeters" is abbreviated to "mils"

I have to throw the "inch" switch when I'm reading the US posts

Well that's just wrong, everyone knows that mills is thousand's of an inch.

To the original poster, I have problems with drills breaking, but I know that it's all operator error. It's always smaller diameter bits in a handheld drill. I put it down wrong and snap a bit, or I balance it on the battery pack and it get knocked over. Other than that, I've never broken a bit. This goes for HF bits, cheapies like Vermont American, and even now Milwaukee.

Jim

[p8ntblr]

I experience the problem with a hand held drill and smaller bits as well. Kinda hard to break the larger bits unless you're really trying. It actually started after i get my Dewalt drill (alot more powerful). Before I had an HF drill for a long time and broke (maybe) 2 or 3 bits. I guess I'll just work on my technique then.. or get a impact driver .

[steve-u]

While technique is important it is hard to beat a quality set of drill bits. I have the Milwaukee cobalt bits as shown in the link below and they are great. Right now the price is right if you can get by with a 13 piece set for replacements. I used cheap bits for years and the Milwaukee bits made a big difference to me.

Steve

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-8...6164626&sr=1-5

[sparkeyjames]

You have never experienced drill bit breaking angst till you snap one off while trying to drill out an exhaust header stud in an automobiles engines cylinder head. Of course it broke off deap inside the stud with none sticking out. I replaced the cylinder head.

[JimD]

I have also broken off a bit in a cylinder head and replaced the head - no fun. In my case it was a volkswagon and I found a siezed motor cheap that had a big bore kit so it all worked out OK.

I also use HF bits for most of my drilling and have found them to be surprisingly good. I bought a different brand of larger Forstener and discovered within the last week that they are made in such a way that you have to stop and clean them frequently - HF cheapies work better.

I saw a review of brad point and they liked Lee Valley so I am also thinking about a set of those. I have a few cheap brad points I got somewhere but not really a set. I have about a dozen of the little bits I often break (fractional sizes) in a tool box. They seem to be a bit short - not sure where I got them - but are sharp and not broken.

I like my fractional dial caliper better than my HF digital. The battery is flat again on the HF and being able to read in what my mind considers real dimensions works better for me.

Jim

[scorrpio]

Using same bit for different materials is not a good thing to do. It is better to spend a bit extra up front and get specialty bits.
1. Wood - brads for smaller holes, forstners for larger. I have a 1/8 - 1/2" carbide tipped set from MLCS, and a Porter-Cable 3/8" - 2" forstner set. These bits produce very clean holes, and the center spur makes centering on an awl mark a snap. Once you use brads/forstners to drill wood, you won't be able to go back.

2. Metal - high speed steel is generally fine. A bit of oil goes a long way here.

3. Masonry - you need special bits for this. I like the Bosch German-made bits, which I buy individually as needs dictate. Keep a water bucket nearby and dip the bit frequently to keep it cool. Makes quick work of brick, concrete etc.