Stud finder...is there a good one?

[scoly]

Had one that worked great for about 10 years till I lost it. Bought a new Zircon with great expectations only to find the technology has gone backwards. Is there a good one out there? Anyone tried the straightline?
Thanks
Steve

[cabinetman]

This is a cool stud finder, not really that expensive considering it detects wiring also. Read more about it:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...276&lpage=none

[LCHIEN]

I was going to recommend the zircon but you don't like it. What's wrong with yours?

[scoly]

Cabinetman,
Thanks for the reply and link. Looked at it and even though it senses wires I would have a hard time justifying $50 just to find a few studs. Might try one of the others though.

Lichen,
The one I have is a cheap zircon that was supposed to have a deep sensing range. It gives fantom readings every time it is used. I have a better success rate knocking on the wall. Should have taken it back immediately but didn't so it's on me.
Guess I'll spend a bit more to see what I get. Wouldn't mind ~$25 but $50 just seems ridiculous for the little I use one.
Thanks again.
Steve

[WoodTherapist]

The never-fail stud finder (sorry, I couldn't resist).

[sacherjj]

I've got the Zircon with the three settings: metal, regular, and deep scan. It also has the AC detector. Works great on regular drywall, a little challenged in plaster. When I'm having trouble, I can usually get the stud via the metal detector mode sensing the fasteners used to hang the wall board.

[Tom Miller]

The never-fail stud finder (sorry, I couldn't resist).

That took a little longer than I thought it would....

I still use the hammer and drill method, myself.

Regards,
Tom

[LCHIEN]

Cabinetman,
Thanks for the reply and link. Looked at it and even though it senses wires I would have a hard time justifying $50 just to find a few studs. Might try one of the others though.

Lichen,
The one I have is a cheap zircon that was supposed to have a deep sensing range. It gives fantom readings every time it is used. I have a better success rate knocking on the wall. Should have taken it back immediately but didn't so it's on me.
Guess I'll spend a bit more to see what I get. Wouldn't mind ~$25 but $50 just seems ridiculous for the little I use one.
Thanks again.
Steve

I haven't used mine in a while but isn't there a calibration procedure you're supposed to do when you turn it on? Are you doing that? otherwise it probably goes to maximum sensitivity. I think you're supposed to place it over a known clear section of wall (no stud, just wallboard) and turn it on until the lights flash, then use it with the button still held down. If you turn it on in the air before putting to the wall that'll mess it up.

[LarryG]

Steve, how little would you use it, exactly? I have done my share of house carpentry and fix-up work, and I've always just used either my knuckles or a hammer handle. Can't say as I've ever really suffered for not having a stud finder.

If you're dealing with relatively new and unaltered construction, you can usually whip the cover off an electrical outlet, determine which side the stud is on, and then measure either every 16" (usually) or 24" (sometimes) from there. This doesn't work so well in older and/or heavily remodeled buildings, though, in which the stud spacing might be all over the map.

[Kristofor]

Hmm, I guess mine is probably 10-12 years old, a cheap single-mode Zircon but it seems to work incredibly easily/well on sheetrock but not nearly so well on a plaster/mesh/lath/stud wall in the 100 year old house I used to live in.. I had no luck with the tapping approach there either though.

I know mine was a cheapie, but unless you lose it (again) it's probably a once in a lifetime type purchase so I guess I wouldn't be too upset springing for the model with more bling (assuming the basic functions worked)

[scoly]

Lchien
Your right about the calibration. I go through it several times trying to find a stud and get such varied response that it cannot be trusted. Based on recommendations here I will try another Zircon in a higher end model. Can always return if necessary.

Larry
Guess I will use it more than I indicated. Doing floor molding now and could use it at every stud. Wil also use it for other odds and ends around the house. My hammer or knuckle technique leave room for improvement.

Thanks again
Steve

[RayintheUK]

Over here, construction methods have changed over the past 50 years or so, going from mainly two skin brick and block to timber frame with a brick outer skin. Internal walls have - consequently -changed from plaster on render to skim on drywall, but when everything is all spruced up, anything can be hiding or buried in internal walls.

Building regulations (our version of building code) does not vary throughout England and Wales, but compliance and enforcement vary widely. A good scanner is great insurance, but you need to be able to detect electrical conduit, wiring, pipework (gas and water), studs and noggins, cavities - the whole nine yards.

There IS a good scanner, which does all that (and it works brilliantly), but you will suffer severe sticker shock. Have a look at the Bosch D-TECT 100

Ray

[sacherjj]

I use the knuckle knock to get started. Then I start my Zircon in between the studs. It works well enough that I can put marks when it starts to beep on each side. It is always perfectly centered, but about 1/4" wider than the stud. This is a little more accurate than I can get with a knuckle.

[jon_ramp]

Like Joe, I also use the knuckle method and/or a powerful magnet. You can get a magnet here if you don't all ready have one: http://www.duluthtrading.com/search/...ture=Product_1

[LCHIEN]

i like the zircon and similar - i can clearly see both edges of the stud so i have confidence i am mounting something squarely in the middel of the stud.