DELTA DP300L bench drill press??

[sparkeyjames]

Lower your drill head with the handle. You should see a slot in the quill. Then rotate the drill by hand and line up a second slot in the spindle shaft. The top of the arbor should stick up into this slot. The drill press should come with a wedge shaped 1/8 inch thick tool to remove the arbor. Similar to the attached picture. Insert in slot above arbor and with a quick pull upward on the tool the arbor should pop out. As mentioned make sure you put something under it that is not liable to damage it ie ding or scratch it. Clean out the inside of the quill and also clean the arbor as suggested. Reinsert and press in with a block of wood on the drill table. Wind the chuck jaws all the way in and press it back onto the arbor with the block of wood. Check run out again. Dial indicators are not that expensive a cheap one from HarborFreight would work $14.(ball end is best although a flat or pointed end will work) Do a search on HF web site with search terms "dial indicator" and "magnetic base" You also need the base to hold the indicator but can get creative to hold the indicator steady against the surface to be measured. If you need help with the use of a dial guage I will write an article "Using a dial guage to check run out in your drill press 101" to help out. I love helping someone else spend their money

[LCHIEN]

I think there some confusion of terms here.

A DP has a chuck, the three-jawed dealy that holds the bits.
I think some of you (Dramey and Sparkey) are calling this an arbor.
whereas an arbors is a shaft with a stop lip or step upon which a blade or grinding tool mounts, held on with an arbor nut.

The DP has a quill,
This connects the spindle to the belts and pulleys so the spindle turns.
The quill is driven by the three-spoked feed handle hub to raise and lower the spindle.
The spindle on most DP has a tapered end which fits the chuck. The taper ensures the chuck centers on the spindle. Its held on by friction of the close fit of an accurate taper match.


interesting article:

http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/dr...ss_tune-up.pdf

[sparkeyjames]

UM no. I have been around drill press's since I was old enough to ask what the heck that thing on the bench was. My dad was tool & die maker. He keeps 2 or 3 (can't remember how many) chuck arbor combos. His theory being that if a chuck arbor combo has a premeasured amount of runout that is acceptable then keep them together. If you emptied out his garage and basement workshop you could start your own tool store. With Starrett and Craftsman being your 2 top brands. You can just not imagine the amount of tools I have been exposed to and tought about. Nice link to a decent article though.

[timb]

I think there some confusion of terms here.

A DP has a chuck, the three-jawed dealy that holds the bits.
I think some of you (Dramey and Sparkey) are calling this an arbor.
whereas an arbors is a shaft with a stop lip or step upon which a blade or grinding tool mounts, held on with an arbor nut.

The DP has a quill,
This connects the spindle to the belts and pulleys so the spindle turns.
The quill is driven by the three-spoked feed handle hub to raise and lower the spindle.
The spindle on most DP has a tapered end which fits the chuck. The taper ensures the chuck centers on the spindle. Its held on by friction of the close fit of an accurate taper match.


interesting article:

http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/dr...ss_tune-up.pdf

That is an interesting article. If this was a used drill press I'd definately try the hammer trick but not on somthing I might return I think.

As I understand it the term an arbor is the end of a shaft on which you mount a spinning tool of some sort. It may be threaded or tapered or splined. For chucks, traditionally the arbor is a separate piece from the driving machine allowing for maximum interchangability of chucks between drills and lathes and the like. On a DP it is usually a double taper. On the DP300L the arbor is not separate but part of the DP spindle

http://www.beautifuliron.com/jacobs.htm

As I understand it, on a DP, the spindle may also be referred to as the quill since it travels up an down and this is called quill travel. That term is a bit more vague (to me anyway) since in may also refer to the sleeve that actuallly moves the spindle up and down or perhaps the whole travelling assembly. I suspect its actually the sleeve since the common mechanincal definition of a quill is a hollow shaft.

So I think dramey and sparkey got it right and I am in full understanding of what they mean, term confusion not withstanding. The problem being of course that the prescibed course of action won't work on the DP300L because it lacks the relavent separate parts at least if the exploded diagram is to be believed. I'm pretty sure there's no slot in the quill/spindle but I'll double check tonight.

Tim

[sparkeyjames]

Strange Delta used to let you download the manuals to there stuff for free now it's pay. I tried to download the manual to your drill just to see whats what. Ah well.

[timb]

It's free but you have to sign up which is a bit annoying. I posted a link to the exploded diagram further up this thread if you want to take a quick look.

To get it from the site you have to go to the "order parts" section. It's not part of the manual that comes with the machine and you won't find it searching for technical documents on the DP300L. That just gives you the manual.

Tim

[sparkeyjames]

Thanks. That does look like an integrated arbor/spindle shaft. Anything to save money.
This means that if your runout at the arbor is severely off then it's a wash. Still the only way to be absolutly certain is with a dial guage.

[dramey]

I think there some confusion of terms here.

A DP has a chuck, the three-jawed dealy that holds the bits.
I think some of you (Dramey and Sparkey) are calling this an arbor.
whereas an arbors is a shaft with a stop lip or step upon which a blade or grinding tool mounts, held on with an arbor nut.

The DP has a quill,
This connects the spindle to the belts and pulleys so the spindle turns.
The quill is driven by the three-spoked feed handle hub to raise and lower the spindle.
The spindle on most DP has a tapered end which fits the chuck. The taper ensures the chuck centers on the spindle. Its held on by friction of the close fit of an accurate taper match.


interesting article:

http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/dr...ss_tune-up.pdf

The drill chuck has a taper of between JT 0 to JT 6 (JT = Jacobs Taper). Most of the bench drill presses with a drill capacity of 1/2" usually has a JT 6 or JT 33 drill chuck. This drill chuck mounts on a Drill Chuck Arbor that has a JT on one end and either an R, MT or NT taper on the other end. Drill Presses uses MT taper (Morse Taper). This drill chuck arbor mounts inside the quill and will be either a MT 2 or MT 3 taper. The R tapers fits inside of milling machines and the NT tapers fits on CNC machinery. Morse tapers are used on drill presses, the tail shafts of lathes, etc. You can verify the names of the parts I have used by looking inside any machine industrial supply catalog like MSC, Grizzly, etc. My bench drill press has a 1/2" capacity drill chuck with a JT 33 and the arbor has a matching JT 33 taper on one end and a MT 2 on the other. My floor drill press has a 5/8" capacity drill chuck with a JT 3 with the arbor for that machine having a matching JT 3 along with a MT 3 that can also be used in my 40" lathe's tailshaft.

[dramey]

Timb,
If your drill press does not have a drill chuck arbor, then it is manufactured to non industrial standards and also means that if something goes wrong, you have to replace the most expensive part of the drill press instead of 10 bucks for a new drill chuck arbor. It also means that you can't upgrade to a better drill chuck by replacing the drill chuck arbor and drill chuck. My recommendation would be to take it back and get it replaced with something that is built to industrail standards i.e., drill chuck, drill chuck arbor, quill and spindle. Spindle = shaft that attaches quill to belt pulleys. Quill = tube with the rack assembly that the 3 handles causes to raise up & down. Spindle fits in the upper assembly of the quill and the drill chuck arbor mounts in the bottom of the quill assembly. I have actually worn out the bearings in my floor drill press and had to tear it apart and rebuild it. That only cost me about $20 so a lot cheaper than replacing it. While I was replacing the bearings, I also upgraded the drill chuck to Jacobs Super ballbearing drill chuck, at that time the chuck cost me about $100.00. Now I see they are $169. It really improved the accuracy of my drilling.

[timb]

Dramey - you have good point. However at $125 bucks in its socks the point here is an inexpensive DP. If its most expensive part breaks it's most likely a boat anchor and the upgrade path, should I feel the need, is give it to the needy and buy a better one.

At least the chuck mounts on a taper - of couse the manual is silent on what size taper it so I suppose there's no guarantee that it's not something oddball. Seems this arrangement is common to all the low end Deltas - the 17-965 16 inch has the same lack of removeable arbor. Looks like it has the same chuck too.

That said I don't want to buy a machine that's unfixably off and there is always the possiblity that the extra mail in discount is because there's a large batch of these that are inconsistently constructed. Hmm.

Not quite ready to buy measuring tools - too much temptation to sit around measuring stuff

Perhaps I just need re-think my need for DP at this time.

Tim

[timb]

and there is no slot in the quill/spindle.

[dramey]

Usually, the JT is marked on the drill chuck i.e., JT 33. The Ryobi DP121, some of the Craftsman's, Grizzly's are good lower end machines for not much more money. I don't recommend other brands as I don't have experience with them, but I am sure there are other good ones out there. Once you get a drill press, you will wonder how you ever got along without it.

[timb]

Thanks for all the info. It's a Jt33 - etched on the chuck.

To share a secret I bought a second DP300L on my way home today. I just switched heads and this one is much better. The arbor had no vibration and the pencil test I perfromed before drew a line all the way around no matter what I tried to do - night and day compared to the first one. Much less wobble on the infamous spade bit plus a much smoother cut and no smoke even at the highest speed - I tried it just to see. Twist bits entered much smoother without the brrrrt noise and while they did vibrate a bit when they hit the wood grain - dry stud wood probably douglas fir - it was much less than before. I hand held the wood block. The pulley wobbles a bit more on this one and I think its a bit louder but I could be wrong - the drilling is certainly much more satisfactory

So bottom line - first one was bad and is going back and i'll keep the new one for now and test it out some more on the weekend. Still may return it and wait for something better but at least this one is starting out right.

I checked out the closest Grizzly - the G7942http://images.grizzly.com/grizzlycom...ls/g7942_m.pdf

but the manual doesn't mention the arbor as a removeable part and it looks to me from the parts diagram that it has the same combined spindle/arbor as the Delta. Also it's 8 inch swing and less the 2 inch quill travel so not sure its really a step up. The next one up has the oscillating gizmo which doesn't really appeal and after that you are starting to get out of the price range.

The G7945 Radial looks kind of interesting though - 1/2 hp 34 inch max swing and 3 1/4 inch spindle travel. Seems like that would be a very good arrangment for woodworking so there's got to be a catch?

tim