6" vs 8" jointer

[drumpriest]

Given that I do not have room for either, I am considering upgrading my jointer. I currently have a 6" benchtop from Pelgrem. While I find it to be quite good, the 3-4' length limit has been an issue for me.

So I am considering the differences between a 6" and 8" jointer, and thought it might make for an interesting discussion. So please, anyone with a though or opinion, please chime in!

thanks!

[Tom Miller]

If the 8" is an option, it's the answer.

Doesn't get simpler than that.

Regards,
Tom (proud owner of a 6" jointer that just barely fits in the shop)

[Knottscott]

Aside from space issues and electrical requirements, the 8" has the upper hand. It'll do everything a 6" jointer can with ease and a higher degree of safety because of the increased mass and size, plus it adds capacity for bigger boards. Seems to me that an awful lot of rough stock is about 6-1/2" wide!

[coach]

If you have the chance to go 8", that would be the way to go.

I have a 6" with 48" beds. There haven't been many times that I needed the extra capacity; but when I have, it's been a need for longer beds most of the time.

[ironhat]

One of the biggest advantages to the 8" is the length of the bed allowing you to edge joint a longer board. Naturally, when you get something that you told yourself that, 'you didn't really need', you'll find a need. In other words, the 8" width will certainly come in handy too.

[LCHIEN]

the two advantages of a floor-standing 8" over the typical floor-standing 6"
are 1) can handle wider boards
and 2) the bed is longer so it can make longer boards flat.
That's about it straight and simple.
Your need to process wide and long boards should be the major factor (besides cost and space)

[Slik Geek]

I upgraded from a 6" to an 8" - not certain if it was really justified.

No regrets here - I made use of the additional bed length and width within a short time. Go for the 8" if at all possible!

[SARGE..g-47]

Good morning...

All you need to know has already been said. I got by with a 6" for many years as I do mostly rough or S1-S2. I could double pass without ripping as most stock will fall between 5-8 inches and often taper in lenght as the tree grew.

To save the extra rip and re-glue or more dangerous double cut, I up-graded. I had a great deal on a 12" with 84" beds, but I would have had to pick it up out of state at around 700 pounds. So... I went with the 8" with 75" beds to replace the Sunhill as a long 55" for a 6" jointer. Great move altogether.. but there have already been two occassions I could have used the 12" but had to suffice with a double pass.

Bottom line.. if you can afford it, get the largest you can get if the you know who agrees. If you don't have the space.. make it as where there's will, there's a way! :>)

Regards...

[Brian G]

If I lived in Pittsburgh, and had $595-ish to spend on an 8" jointer, I'd be on my way to Muncy.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0586

I have a 6" bench top jointer. I'm often frustrated by having to plan around the limitations of the short bed and width. This is especially true when I stumble upon a nicely figured, 7.5" wide board that would make great bookmatched veneer.

Losing that 1.5" means I lose a little more than 3" off the final width of the veneer. True, there's the option of the double pass like Sarge mentioned, but I'm minimally fond of doing that.