Dual speed bandsaw motor?

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  • calec
    Forum Newbie
    • Mar 2007
    • 36
    • Elkhart, IN
    • Craftsman 10" belt drive Model 113.298762

    Dual speed bandsaw motor?

    Wonder if anyone besides me has considered converting a single speed band saw to dual speed? Thinking of replacing the 1725 rpm motor with an equivalent 1100 +/1725 rpm motor for cutting non ferrous metals or plastic.
    Last edited by calec; 03-22-2007, 05:12 PM. Reason: to correct text
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 21079
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    induction motors usually run at multiples of line freq so a 1100 rpm motor is not commonly available. 1725 and 3450 (these are the slipped frequencies of 1800 and 3600 RPM) possible but usually not in the same motor. Most multi-speed bandsaws use mulitple pulley pairs to change speeds.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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    • Thom2
      Resident BT3Central Research Ass.
      • Jan 2003
      • 1786
      • Stevens, PA, USA.
      • Craftsman 22124

      #3
      ummmm ... I've 'sorta' considered something like this ..... I started with a variable speed pulley rig that didn't get the desire results I was looking for .... you can find pics of that experiment here:

      http://bt3gallery.fhauto.com/view_al...peedexperiment

      Now I've moved on to a different avenue and currently I've got a 1hp 3phase motor AND a Variable Frequency Drive sitting in my shop waiting for me to get around to playing.

      As far as non-ferrous metals and plastics, I will tell you that I've cut a LOT of both on the ridgid I had without any type of speed reduction at all. If it's occassional cutting of aluminum or plastics, you'll be fine without any modifications IMO.
      If it ain't broke.. don't fix it!!!... but you can always 'hop it up'
      **one and only purchaser of a BT3C official thong**

      Comment

      • Tom Slick
        Veteran Member
        • May 2005
        • 2913
        • Paso Robles, Calif, USA.
        • sears BT3 clone

        #4
        you could use this type of motor, you only need a switch for changing speeds.
        http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1613549896
        but I don't know how it would stand up to bandsaw duty though. and it's a little expensive too.
        Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison

        Comment

        • LCHIEN
          Internet Fact Checker
          • Dec 2002
          • 21079
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #5
          Originally posted by Tom Slick
          you could use this type of motor, you only need a switch for changing speeds.
          http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1613549896
          but I don't know how it would stand up to bandsaw duty though. and it's a little expensive too.
          But the power for the slow speed is very low, less than half that of the high speed. Not a desirable thing for a power tool.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment

          • Stytooner
            Roll Tide RIP Lee
            • Dec 2002
            • 4301
            • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
            • BT3100

            #6
            You can cut aluminum and brass as well as plastic with the saws current speed. I replied to your other thread about the blade I use.
            Metal cutting bandsaws typically have a standard motor and use an oil filled gear box to get down into the needed reduction range. The gear box has the benefit of maintaining much of the motors torque. From this point then there is also a pulley system to zero in on a particular slower speed. Mine has three with the slowest at about 80 FPM then 120 and 200. I cut most steels at 120 without coolant and stainless at 80. With an added coolant system, I could cut all at 200 with a good bimetal blade.
            Lee

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