Show me your Tapper Jigs

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  • charger1966
    Established Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 146
    • Amsterdam, New York
    • Shopsmith 10ER (1948),BT3100 New to me January 2007

    #1

    Show me your Tapper Jigs

    OK Guys I'm looking for inspiration and plans for a great Tapper Jig. So show me yours and let me know what you think of it.
    Keep Making that Sawdust.
    Lance
  • John Hunter
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2004
    • 2034
    • Lake Station, IN, USA.
    • BT3000 & BT3100

    #2
    I use the HF taper Jig http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1382 bought it on sale for $9
    John Hunter

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    • LCHIEN
      Super Moderator
      • Dec 2002
      • 21981
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #3
      Originally posted by John Hunter
      I use the HF taper Jig http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1382 bought it on sale for $9
      I got one too. CAn't beat it for that price (Rockler's looks identical but for color and other people sell these too).

      I added some thin strips of UHMW - I hate that aluminum sliding on aluminum feel with my BT3000 table top.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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      • leehljp
        The Full Monte
        • Dec 2002
        • 8764
        • Tunica, MS
        • BT3000/3100

        #4
        For smaller tapers on the BT3x00, using the SMT and fence this is what I did:





        I also did one similar for my miter guage and the miter slot for the same saw about 3 years ago.
        Hank Lee

        Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

        Comment

        • messmaker
          Veteran Member
          • May 2004
          • 1495
          • RICHMOND, KY, USA.
          • Ridgid 2424

          #5
          Here is a link to show you the one I have. I like it better than the hinge type. This is very similar to the one that I made though I recall getting it from Wood magazine.http://www.bhg.com/bhg/store/product...&ordersrc=cjpc
          Last edited by messmaker; 03-14-2007, 10:09 AM. Reason: kant spel
          spellling champion Lexington region 1982

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          • LarryG
            The Full Monte
            • May 2004
            • 6693
            • Off The Back
            • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

            #6
            Something like messmaker's example is the way to do it. I have a shop-made, wooden copy of the typical hinged metal tapering jig, and I don't much like using it ... sliding the jig + workpiece together along the rip fence with no mechanical connection between them does not inspire a feeling of safety or confidence.

            Alternatively, unless you anticipate cutting an awfully large number of tapers, you can build a straight-line ripping jig ...



            ... that will double as a tapering jig. Mine is a simple slab of 3/4" MDF, 7" wide by about 5'-6" long, with a series of holes spaced about 2" OC for the two shop-made hold-downs. I use this jig a lot when straightening up one edge of rough lumber, and it will double as a nifty tapering jig when I need one of those.
            Larry

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            • Anna
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2006
              • 728
              • CA, USA.
              • BT3100

              #7
              Similar to LarryG, I wanted a straight line ripping jig primarily that can also be used as a taper jig. I built one a couple of days ago based on a Wood mag plan. Originally, it was 12 inches wide, 4 feet long and had a 2x4 fence. I could hardly carry it (it was really heavy!), so I cut it down to about 36 inches and reduced the 2x4 fence to only about 1 inch wide by 1.75 inch thick. I should have made it a little taller since I use that to push against the fence.

              For the "T-slots," I made some shallow 5/8" dadoes on the plywood, glued hardboard on top of that, and cut 5/16" slots through the hardboard. Fits a quarter-inch toilet bolt really well. I'm using two store-bought hold downs, but I'll be making my own sometime later.

              At the end of the jig, I have a registration point that can be adjusted sideways and vertically, to fit any length/thickness of material I'll be tapering. As per the Wood plan, I used a small screw (with the head cut off) to hold one end of the wood, in case I want to do four-sided tapers. Haven't done that yet (I've only done 2-sided tapers), but the theory sounds interesting.

              There was a bit of trial and error involved, and I had to change the design a bit so I can use my scraps and also not have to rout out slots. So far it's worked okay.
              Attached Files

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