OK Guys I'm looking for inspiration and plans for a great Tapper Jig. So show me yours and let me know what you think of it.
Keep Making that Sawdust.
Lance
Here is a link to show you the one I have. I like it better than the hinge type. This is very similar to the one that I made though I recall getting it from Wood magazine.http://www.bhg.com/bhg/store/product...&ordersrc=cjpc
Last edited by messmaker; 03-14-2007, 10:09 AM.
Reason: kant spel
Something like messmaker's example is the way to do it. I have a shop-made, wooden copy of the typical hinged metal tapering jig, and I don't much like using it ... sliding the jig + workpiece together along the rip fence with no mechanical connection between them does not inspire a feeling of safety or confidence.
Alternatively, unless you anticipate cutting an awfully large number of tapers, you can build a straight-line ripping jig ...
... that will double as a tapering jig. Mine is a simple slab of 3/4" MDF, 7" wide by about 5'-6" long, with a series of holes spaced about 2" OC for the two shop-made hold-downs. I use this jig a lot when straightening up one edge of rough lumber, and it will double as a nifty tapering jig when I need one of those.
Similar to LarryG, I wanted a straight line ripping jig primarily that can also be used as a taper jig. I built one a couple of days ago based on a Wood mag plan. Originally, it was 12 inches wide, 4 feet long and had a 2x4 fence. I could hardly carry it (it was really heavy!), so I cut it down to about 36 inches and reduced the 2x4 fence to only about 1 inch wide by 1.75 inch thick. I should have made it a little taller since I use that to push against the fence.
For the "T-slots," I made some shallow 5/8" dadoes on the plywood, glued hardboard on top of that, and cut 5/16" slots through the hardboard. Fits a quarter-inch toilet bolt really well. I'm using two store-bought hold downs, but I'll be making my own sometime later.
At the end of the jig, I have a registration point that can be adjusted sideways and vertically, to fit any length/thickness of material I'll be tapering. As per the Wood plan, I used a small screw (with the head cut off) to hold one end of the wood, in case I want to do four-sided tapers. Haven't done that yet (I've only done 2-sided tapers), but the theory sounds interesting.
There was a bit of trial and error involved, and I had to change the design a bit so I can use my scraps and also not have to rout out slots. So far it's worked okay.
Comment