I spotted this yesterday in the borg and was wondering if anyone here has one?
I thought it might be a starting point until I build my saw / router station.
I thought it might be a starting point until I build my saw / router station.
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from the lack of replies I'll take it this isnt too good of a table -
not too good?
or, maybe not too popular
or, owners of this table only log in less than once per 24-hours.
still, maybe you're right.
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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I have no opinion on the table you mentioned.
A cheaper starting point is a 2'-square chunk of 3/4" MDF with a 7" circle routed out to a 3/8" depth in the middle. Attach your router directly to the MDF, chuck a v-groove bit and plunge it through. Then make the hole bigger to accomodate the biggest bit you will use.
A straight 2 x 4 clamped in place makes a usable fence.
I just saved you money!
BrianComment
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Well I'd considered doing something similar but I wasnt sure how quickly I'd need to use a split fence. I'm a total noob with a router.Comment
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The best thing about getting started with any table is that it gets you started. Whether you have a home made or a cheap benchtop table, you at least can begin working, doing some jobs that are either too difficult or too dangerous to be attempted with the router hand held.
I think the best bet is a table like Brian suggested. I wouldn't worry too much about a split fence since a solid fence is used most of the time anyway. A split fence can actually be a little bit of a pain since you need to align both halves of the fence for most operations.Comment
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I agree with Brian and bthere (mostly). My first router table fence -- which I still have, and occasionally use -- was a stick of 3/4" red oak about 3" wide, jointed straight, and with a ~2" half-circle cutout for bit clearance. That's big enough for all but the largest bits (horizontal panel raisers, lock miters, etc) and you can't beat it for simplicity. The main limitation of a fence like this is that you're limited to laying the workpiece flat on the table; it's not tall enough to support a workpiece stood on edge.
About that "mostly" stuff ... fence halves that slide in one plane only, in order to adjust the bit opening, are dead easy to align. I would guess that the ones that adjust in the other axis are indeed a pain to align, and presume this is what bthere is referring to. I have never used a fence like that, have never needed one, and offhand cannot think of any reason why I ever would. (Jointing on the router table, one operation that might require such a fence, can be accomplished by temporarily applying a thin shim to the outfeed half of the fence.) A fence with halves that slide to adjust the bit opening only is a nice convenience -- I have a homemade fence like this -- but the same thing can be accomplished by making an assortment of straight-board fences with different sized bit cutouts.
To somewhat address your original question, I've only looked at that Ryobi table while walking past it in Home Depot, but my impression was and is that it's like most tables in this class: loaded up with a gazillion fussy little doo-dads designed to impress a beginner but which are rarely needed or used in real life, and none of which work very well because the manufacturing costs of the table were spread across way too many things.
Since you're a self-described "total noob with a router," as usual I will close by suggesting you buy a copy of "Woodworking With The Router" by Bill Hylton (get the second edition, with color photos). The first edition of this book is my all-time favorite on my woodworking library shelf and will get you off to a flying start with these wonderful and incredibly versatile tools.Last edited by LarryG; 03-13-2007, 10:50 AM.LarryComment
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I have this router table. Overall I would say it is OK for beginner. The table is made of MDF with steel plate support in the center. The scale on the table is a plus, but the paint is easy to scratch off. The fence is made of plastic, it is kind of flimpy, especially the adjustable part. The built in 2.5" vaccum adapter works fine for top dust collection, but under the table, it will be a mess. The plastic featherboard is a simple design, works OK. It comes with a adapter plate for different routers. I have mounted the PC690LRVS under it, and have done my kitchen cabinet with it. But if I would start over again, I would spend a little more for a more solid one.Comment
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Thanks to all for the replies. I think I'll go with the concensus here and make my own but I want to go get Hylton's book first.
I'd come up with a design where the fence was mounted with bolts into a pair of t tracks that would allow for it to move in one axis. I just wasnt sure if I'd need to get sliders for the t track or if the bolts would hold on their own.Comment
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Bought that book (Woodworking with the Router) about 2 months ago and it is excellent. You won't go wrong if you get it. Do get the updated version.Joe
"All things are difficult before they are easy"Comment
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router table.........
I did not find pics. of that router table, so I'm not sure of which one it is.
If it has an alunimum ribbed top,like several of them do....I would stay away from it...probably not worth the time or money in the long run here.
You would be better off to build your own routertable or buy a good name brand like Benchdog or something comporable to that.
You can build a good router table out of birch plywood, covered with laminate
or use mdf and cover it...makes a good stable, flat, worksurface. eezlockComment
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LCHIEN
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