Mortiser questions

[p8ntblr]

I just got a used Delta mortiser (14-650). I did a few test runs on some 2x4 (only scrap I had) and the wood followed the chisel as I brought it up (was stuck to the chisel). Is this natural if I don't use the holddown feature. Or does it have anything do with the chisels sharpness/dullness?

When I do need to sharpen them, what do I use. Or should I just buy a new set when they get dull? Any good recommendations on a starting set?

It was also squeaking alot, I assume it just needs to be lubricated. Is WD-40 ok for this?

The grooves seem alot rougher than when I use my plunge router. Meaning the edges along the mortise were rough(jagged). This is my first real venture in using a mortiser (and mortise-tenon joinery all together) so I'm not sure if this is to be expected or if it's just my technique (or lack there of).

Thanks

[bmyers]

I think you might need some adjusting.

Make sure the gap between the bit and the chisel is correct. That'll produce more squeaks if it's not right. You have a low speed motor on there so squeaks should be minimal.

Hone your drill and chisel. How you sharpen these may be a new method for you, it was for me so be sure to look that up in your favorite sharpening book. You may want to pick up the hone for chisel at Rockler. It's a cone looking thing with the right angle for mortising chisels.

Make sure the chisel is square the the fence. A little twist can make coming out of the wood "grabby".

I wouldn't recommend WD40 on the tip of your chisel/bit. 2 reasons. 1, if you chisel is rubbing and running hot, WD40 is flammable I think. 2, WD40 will get everywhere and mess up your finish of your stock.


After that, make yourself a pair of nice oak Stickly chairs. You'll get PLENTY of practice making mortises and will be a pro at sharpening.

Good luck and enjoy, it's a nice machine.

Bill

[LCHIEN]

grabbing i common - the most complained about thing on the inexpenive benchtop mortisers is the hold down doesn't do a very good job.

Squeaking - check the alignment and gap

roughness - somewhat rougher than mortising with a router. Make sure the chisel is parallel with the fence,

[Tom Hintz]

Having the wood stick to the chisel, particularly on the first plunge, is common and should be defeated by the material hold down. This is especially common with soft woods like pine that compress as the chisel is plunged in and get a good grip on its sides.

I have a story on setting up a mortiser at the link below that shows an easy way of getting the bit/chisel clearance right.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/setupmort.html

[p8ntblr]

Thanks guys I'll give those recommendations a try.

Just started reading the link. Very informative. Thanks Tom.

[JimD]

I squirt on some 3 in one oil after installing the chisel and then mortise in a scrap to take off excess oil - minimizes squeeking. I think routed mortises are smoother but a mortiser does a pretty good job when you keep the wood tight to the fence - a clamp is not a bad idea and will also help keep the work down and square when getting the chisel back out. I've used my Jet a lot but still chipped a piece of hard maple the other day extracting a 1/2 inch bit. I let the wood tip as I pulled the bit up and it made it harder to extract plus did a bit of damage (which the other piece of the joint fortunately covered).

Jim

[eddy merckx]

If you're a member of FWW, here's an excellent video about sharpening and using hollow chisels.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki....aspx?id=26532

[eddy merckx]

That's a really good article, Tom. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

Eddy