Hf Bandsaw I need your help

[Ken Massingale]

Same saw, different pulley set up, buy the single speed, unless you think you may want to cut metal at some time or another. I converted my 4 speed to single to get rid of a belt and pulley. Pat

Pat,
Did you use the same procedure as Jon did to eliminate the center pulley, and which position on the bottom pulley did the belt go in?
Thanks Pat.
k

[messmaker]

I am like John. My HF bandsaw was a different animal with a good blade on it. It passes the nickel test without a linkbelt. I could see buying different guides but thats about it.

[TB Roye]

This evening I removed the belts and middle pulley and reversed the motor pulley putting the small end toward the motor. Then I added the link belt. What a difference. That thing picked some speed and became quieter and smoother. Best thing I could have done to the saw. Next improvement will be changing the tires and adding the quick release. Maybe I will add the Carter guides while I am at it.

Tom

[dale]

Phil, I paid around $220 several years ago and don't regret it. At that price I don't see how you can go wrong. Figure another $75-100 for link belts and 2 or 3 good blades. If you want a riser, Grizzly has one that fits for around $50. See, it's like turning wood, it never ends.

Is it this one?

[Ken Massingale]

After reversing the motor pulley, which groove on the pulley did you use, Tom?
I think Jon used the second smallest.
Thanks.

Dale, I think so. I'll check my order records in a bit and confirm that. They have another one that's identical except the guide post is the wrong diameter.

[eddy merckx]

Does anyone know if the riser kit from Grizzly will fit a HF saw without modification? I waited a long time (almost a year) to get the HF riser kit because I understood that the Griz blade guide and blade guard didn't fit. I'll feel like a dope if I waited that long for nothing. At lest the HF riser kit paint matches.

Eddy

[AlanWS]

I have one of the Grizzly risers on my HF bandsaw. It was not for the GO555, but for an earlier 14" Grizzly saw that may now be discontinued. I needed to replace the guidepost with a 3/4" steel rod, since the Grizzly one was the wrong diameter. The pins and holes in the block to align the frame were in the wrong places, so I drilled new ones. The rest of the stuff either fit as it was, or I slightly modified to make it fit by enlarging screw holes (in the yellow blade guard that attaches to the guidepost).

[Ken Massingale]

Dale/Eddy,
Grizzly has 2 risers that folks have bought for the HF BS. I bought the H3051 and everything fit except the guide rod. I had one made by a machinest friend, but the flat along one side isn't exactly right.
I have just ordered the guide rod from their H7316, which is 'supposed' to be the right diameter. It is scheduled for delivery Mar. 12, so I'll let you know then if it is indeed an exact fit.
The riser inself and other components of the H3051 fit fine.
And Eddy, sorry, the green is a lot lighter than the HF green! ;-D

ken

[TB Roye]

Ken I used the smallest groove the one nearest the motor. Had to move the motor bracket a little and move the bottom pulley a little to get the pulleys aligned. If you use one of the other grooves you would have to move the top pulley or make other adjustments to get thing aligned. It was really pretty simple once I found the instruction on how to install the belt. There are arrows on the belt that show the direction on rotation. I completely removed the middle pulley and it is now in a cabinet with other parts from other tools I have modified.

Tom

[Ken Massingale]

Thanks for the reply, Tom.

[theminor]

Grizzly has 2 risers that folks have bought for the HF BS. I bought the H3051 and everything fit except the guide rod. I had one made by a machinest friend, but the flat along one side isn't exactly right.
I have just ordered the guide rod from their H7316, which is 'supposed' to be the right diameter

Yes the H7316 kit is the one you want. Every part, including the guide rod, fits perfectly. I have it in mine and, other than the color difference, it works great! The guide rod is actually better than the HF guide rod since it has a groove like a slot all the way down the rod instead of a flat surface like the HF. This keeps the rod more accurately straight as you adjust it up and down.

[theminor]

This evening I removed the belts and middle pulley and reversed the motor pulley putting the small end toward the motor. Then I added the link belt. What a difference. That thing picked some speed and became quieter and smoother. Best thing I could have done to the saw.

TB Roye and all who have removed the middle pulley,

I understand how this will help with vibration, but does it really increase the speed? It seems to me that removing one of the pulleys would slow down the speed, not speed it up. The pulleys are there to increase the motor speed by torquing up the belt speed as each belt attaches to a small diameter notch in the pulley and the next belt attaches at a large diameter, like gears on a bicycle. Can someone explain to me how the speed is actually increased by removing the middle pulley? Maybe I'm missing something here, but as of now, I don't quite understand! Has anyone actually measured the speed after making the change?

Thanks for any explanations - I'd love to make this modification if it does increase speed and reduce vibration!

[jspelbring]

Speed

TB Roye and all who have removed the middle pulley,

I understand how this will help with vibration, but does it really increase the speed? It seems to me that removing one of the pulleys would slow down the speed, not speed it up. The pulleys are there to increase the motor speed by torquing up the belt speed as each belt attaches to a small diameter notch in the pulley and the next belt attaches at a large diameter, like gears on a bicycle. Can someone explain to me how the speed is actually increased by removing the middle pulley? Maybe I'm missing something here, but as of now, I don't quite understand! Has anyone actually measured the speed after making the change?

Thanks for any explanations - I'd love to make this modification if it does increase speed and reduce vibration!

Well, I'm no expert on physics and pulleys, but after the surgery, my saw sounds, feels, and acts faster. The vibration is also decreased, but I don't know if that because of the middle pulley being removed, or the link belt. All I can say is that I love it, and may actually put off my dream of owning a nice big Italian saw for awhile. Since "the change", I've resawn white oak, walnut, and some really dark and heavy board whose name I forget. All have been excellent, with no bogging or slipping whatsoever.

[eddy merckx]

Yes the H7316 kit is the one you want. Every part, including the guide rod, fits perfectly. I have it in mine and, other than the color difference, it works great! The guide rod is actually better than the HF guide rod since it has a groove like a slot all the way down the rod instead of a flat surface like the HF. This keeps the rod more accurately straight as you adjust it up and down.

Now I do feel like a dope. I have to say that I've been using the stock blade that came with the riser kit and it's actually OK. No major weld lumps or excess vibration. I really expected it to be complete junk. I have a Woodslicer on order but this blade is fine for now.

[TB Roye]

Removing the middle pulley made it a single speed band saw. Reversing the pulley and putting the smallest groove sped it up, more revolution on the small pulley. Don't know by how much. Removing the middle pulley probably help with the vibration by having on less revolving mass other things that can add to vibration. The link belt was the biggest the reason for less vibration. Someone with a good understanding of math and physics could figure out the speed change but it has been far to long for to remember how to do it. When I had race cars with quick change rear ends, we used to change the rear end ratio by change two spur gears, 1 larger in diameter and one smaller. The gear were marked so we could look at chart and figure out what we wanted but by mixing the set we could come up with other ratios. All I remember now is big gear on the bottom and little gear on top and 6:90 for qualifying and 6:48 for the main, unless it got dry slick or if we were on the 1/2 mile the it might be 5:35 for the main.