Best Rip blade?

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  • jussi
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 2162

    Best Rip blade?

    What do rip blade do you guys use for your TS? I was thinking of a 10-inch 24T. What brand/model do you recommend?
    I reject your reality and substitute my own.
  • steve-u
    Established Member
    • Nov 2005
    • 222
    • Bartlett, Ill.
    • Ryobi BT 3100

    #2
    I don't know about the absolute best but for the money a couple from Freud are highly regarded. I just ordered the Freud-LU87R010 when it was 20% off of the $34.99 price and it has plenty of favorable reviews. It is thin kerf which makes it ideal for the BT3100 in my opinion. The full thickness Freud LM72R010 also has many favorable reviews for those that do not want/need to use a thin kerf blade.

    http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010...1?ie=UTF8&s=hi

    Comment

    • JSCOOK
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2006
      • 774
      • Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
      • Ryobi BT3100-1

      #3
      For most stuff it the same as before ... 10" Tenryu 40-tooth.

      For heavy amounts of ripping or thick stock ... 10" Freud TK206 24-tooth
      "Experience: that most brutal of teachers. But you learn, my God do you learn". by C.S. Lewis

      Comment

      • Knottscott
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2004
        • 3815
        • Rochester, NY.
        • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

        #4
        There's probably no definitive "best ripper". I've used 6 rip blades on my saw...in order of purchase:

        1. Vermont American 28T - dulled fast, cut lousy
        http://www.epinions.com/content_164571352708
        2. Skil 28T - dulled fast, cut lousy (looked like the same blade as the VA)
        3. Freud LM72 - decent cut (for a ripper), held an edge well, slowish feedrate
        http://www.epinions.com/content_145291447940
        4. DW7124TK - good cut for a ripper, effortless feedrate, still seems sharp
        http://www.epinions.com/content_185638293124
        5. Leitz/Irwin 24T FTG TK - pretty much the same as the DW
        6. Leitz/Delta 10T FTG FK - Aggressive, rough cutting, great for 3-4" stock...perfect for industrial use with a 3-5hp saw.

        In thick material, I much prefer the feedrate of the TK's. I just ordered one of the Hitachi rippers on sale....I don't have real high hopes, but I couldn't resist the deal....will try that one out in March when God remembers to send us some good weather!

        Based on my experiences with other Freud Industrial blades, I wouldn't hesitate to try the LU87. It's ATB grind should cut a bit cleaner than the FTG's, but may not be quite as efficient.
        Last edited by Knottscott; 02-15-2007, 07:00 AM.
        Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

        Comment

        • ragswl4
          Veteran Member
          • Jan 2007
          • 1559
          • Winchester, Ca
          • C-Man 22114

          #5
          I use the Freud LU87, cuts great, no burning and RIPS through 1" Lyptus very easily. The BT3100 original blade couldn't cut it without burning and chatter. I recommend this blade.
          RAGS
          Raggy and Me in San Felipe
          sigpic

          Comment

          • SARGE..g-47

            #6
            I run a 24T rip almost exclusively as I cross-cut on a SCMS. I have used the Freud LU87R010 TK and LM72R010 sucessfully. I have used Amana also (good blade with no frills at low price. And I have used many blades purchased from a local saw sharpener that are too endless to name as they are not household names you would recognize.

            I now run a CMT TK 24T (1 flat tooth and 2 alternating with a 20* hook angle on my BT 3000 and a CMT full kerf 24T flat tooth (a true ripper with no ATB but not designed to get smooth cuts.. your going to the jointer anyway) on my Uni-saw. These are available @ www.highlandwoodworking.com. I have cut 8/4 2" white oak and maple on my BT 3000 using the CMT TK. I prefer and will run the full kerf on my Uni-saw.

            I suggest you use a TK with stiffner if you have a BT saw. What I have found is I'd rather have a $14 Oldham 24T that is SHARP on my saw than a $100 Forrest that is Dull. You don't always get what you pay for if what you paid extra for is not kept SHARP. ha.. ha...

            Regards...
            Last edited by Guest; 02-15-2007, 12:09 PM.

            Comment

            • Garasaki
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 550

              #7
              So the Irwin blades I see are actually made by Leitz?

              I knew they were rebadged, but I did not know by whom

              (check out my whom!, I just pwned the english language)
              -John

              "Look, I can't surrender without orders. I mean they emphasized that to me particularly. I don't know exactly why. The guy said "Blake, never surrender without checking"
              -Henry Blake

              Comment

              • LCHIEN
                Internet Fact Checker
                • Dec 2002
                • 21071
                • Katy, TX, USA.
                • BT3000 vintage 1999

                #8
                Originally posted by Garasaki
                So the Irwin blades I see are actually made by Leitz?

                I knew they were rebadged, but I did not know by whom

                (check out my whom!, I just pwned the english language)
                apparently not ALL of them. Just some.
                Loring in Katy, TX USA
                If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                Comment

                • Knottscott
                  Veteran Member
                  • Dec 2004
                  • 3815
                  • Rochester, NY.
                  • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

                  #9
                  Originally posted by LCHIEN
                  apparently not ALL of them. Just some.
                  The Irwin "Woodworking" series was made in Germany by Leitz. They're actually identical to the H.O. Schumacher & Sohn brand, also made by Leitz. The Irwin "Marathon" and "Sprint" series are made elsewhere (likely China) and are not in the same league IMHO.
                  Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

                  Comment

                  • LarryG
                    The Full Monte
                    • May 2004
                    • 6693
                    • Off The Back
                    • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

                    #10
                    I have a related question. I recently ordered a Freud LU87R010 24T TK rip blade from amazon.com. I now have it in hand, and while the bar code sticker has that number, the physical blade is a full-kerf 30T and says GLUE LINE RIP on the face, model number LM74R010.

                    There's no indication the package has been opened (and I've not opened it, either), so it appears the blade was mislabeled at the factory.

                    My question is: is this a blade worth adding to my arsenal (I have the stock Freud-made blade that came with my BT, plus a WWII TK), or should I send it back and get them to send me what I ordered?
                    Larry

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