Triton 3.25 HP or 2.25 HP or Freud Router?

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Jeffrey,

I have the same complaint as you on the safety switch. I've been contemplating removing the clear plastic "door" that slides over the switch. I think that would effectively disable it. If I try it, I'll let you know if it works.

I am sure Ray will chim in here, but as I understand it the collet lock will not work if you remove the safety door.

[LarryG]

These ideas are both probably not worth doing, but they would make for a very nice setup!

I have a Porter-Cable 7518 in a lift, which of course allows for both above-table height adjustments and bit changes; the switch is a simple slider that I leave ON and then power the router on/off with an external switch. So far so good.

But I still have to go under the table and inside the box when I need to adjust the router's variable speed control. AFAIK this will be the case with any VS router on the market.

IOW, you can try to think of everything, but there's always something ...

[RayintheUK]

I am sure Ray will chime in here, but as I understand it the collet lock will not work if you remove the safety door.

Ah, Jeffrey, you know me so well!

If the safety door is open, you cannot plunge (raise, if inverted) enough to allow the collet lock to engage. Similarly, when the collet lock is engaged, the power switch is inoperable, due to the safety door.

This is a well-thought-out purposely-designed safety feature. The slight inconvenience of having to switch a machine off - using its own switch - before changing a bit is a tiny price to pay to prevent the damage that could be done to both machine and fingers if this feature were to be over-ridden in some way.

For T-Bone's info, the sliding door is connected to an internal spacer block that - when open - is in the path of the plunge arm, preventing full plunging and therefore, collet lock engagement. Once off and plunged to engage the collet lock, the switch cover cannot then be operated, because the plunge arm is in the way. Therefore, removal of the door could allow the machine to be switched on with the collet lock engaged. However, the sliding door is part of the overall switch mechanism sub-assembly and I suspect that the on/off switch would not re-fit correctly with a part removed.

Bottom line - please don't mess with safety features!

Ray.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

But I still have to go under the table and inside the box when I need to adjust the router's variable speed control. AFAIK this will be the case with any VS router on the market.

Nope. Granted its about $500 bucks but it exists.

http://www.amazon.com/Jessem-Router-.../dp/B000II57DY

[LarryG]

Granted its about $500 bucks but it exists.

Never seen that before. Interesting. I have a Mast-R-Lift, and might've considered this had I known about it.

Then again, probably not. IIRC I paid ~$225 for my 7518, including the base if I ever take leave of my senses and want to use it handheld, so this one would have cost me more than double for that small amount of extra convenience.

That Milwaukee motor's supposed to be a hoss, though ... never read anything bad about it.

[T-Bone]

Thanks for the info on the internals of the switch, Ray. You probably saved me some frustration messing around with it. I understand your concern about safety and am totally on board with that and I completely understand that Triton does not want to offer a way to disable a safety feature. But in a table mount situation with a separate switch that also has a safety device, it just seems like it isn't necessary and, as you point out, it is an inconvenience. The thing is, I forget just about every time I change the bit to flip the switch back on and then wonder for a second why the router won't turn on when I flip the main switch, then sometimes reach under the table and switch on the router only to realize that I forgot to turn off the main switch, which takes me be surprise and creates a keystone cop type unsafe situation. But I guess there is also the chance that I will be using this router as a handheld at some point so the inconvenience is a small price to pay.

[atgcpaul]

One followup to the Triton 3 1/4 HP router. I noticed that it includes a 1/4"
collet reducer whereas the smaller one includes a 1/4" collet. I guess from
teachers and magazines, it's always been--go for the collet, not the reducer.
Is this a big deal?


Thanks, Paul

[RayintheUK]

One follow-up to the Triton 3 1/4 HP router. I noticed that it includes a 1/4" collet reducer whereas the smaller one includes a 1/4" collet. I guess from teachers and magazines, it's always been--go for the collet, not the reducer.
Is this a big deal?

The collet on the larger machine (TR*001) is "Hitachi-style", coarse thread, sharp angle of attack on the taper, very little wrench movement required - looks like this:




You cannot get this style of collet in any other size than 1/2" (and believe me, I've tried!), hence the need for 1/4" (and/or 8mm) inserts.

The smaller machine (MOF001) uses the "self-releasing" style of collet - fine thread, shallow angle of attack on the taper, much more wrench movement required - which is readily available in both 1/2" and 1/4". These look like this:




These still need an insert for 8mm bits (no, I've not been able to find a dedicated 8mm self-releasing collet either!), but I've never had any problems with inserts in either style of collet. Granted, I prefer a dedicated collet, but if inserts are used correctly, they're fine.

HTH

Ray.

[RodKirby]

One followup to the Triton 3 1/4 HP router. I noticed that it includes a 1/4"
collet reducer whereas the smaller one includes a 1/4" collet. I guess from
teachers and magazines, it's always been--go for the collet, not the reducer.
Is this a big deal?


Thanks, Paul

It is a VERY big deal - in Australia only.

For some reason, known only to Triton, the smaller machine here does NOT have the 1/4" collet

I had bit slippage problems with the reducer and Ray very kindly sent me the collet - DOESN'T fit the Oz machine.

Numerous e-mails with Triton resulted in "yes, we are disappointed with the design", and "tighten a little harder". Since I've used a "gorilla" grip (longer wrench), I haven't had a problem.

Bottom line - a reducer will never be as good a stand-alone collet.

[big tim]

For all Canucks

Busy Bee Tools has the Triton TRC001, 3.25HP on sale for $259. I think that's a very good price.
By mid March they'll will have the Wixey Electronic Digital Fence Readout for sale for $149.99. Wixey sells that for the same price but of course in US$

Tim

[theminor]

Busy Bee Tools has the Triton TRC001, 3.25HP on sale for $259. I think that's a very good price.

Woodcraft has is for $215, FYI!

[JSCOOK]

Woodcraft has is for $215, FYI!

Don't want to burst you bubble, but the KEY point was that Busy Bee is Canadian ... where as WoodCraft is not ... and if you take WoodCrafts price of $215 USD x 1.17 (approx exchange rate) = $251.55 CDN, plus shipping costs (estimate at least $40USD) then any customs & brokerage fees .... Busy Bee is definitely a BETTER deal for us Canadians

[Santa Clarita Len]

I have the Freud 31/4 HP and consider it an excellent router and I believe that it is still available for under $200.

[theminor]

Don't want to burst you bubble, but the KEY point was that Busy Bee is Canadian

Woops! Sorry about that - didn't know it was the Canadian price!

[Crash2510]

Don't know if the ft3000 has been suggested yet, but it has the same great above the table adjustments of the ft1700. It is a 3 1/4 hp router new and still kind of pricey. I have the ft1700 and love it. Here is a link.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FT3000VC...3101001&sr=8-4