Triton 3.25 HP or 2.25 HP or Freud Router?

**ChrisD** · 02-13-2007, 09:01 AM

I'm sure this thread by Ray will help.

**Knottscott** · 02-13-2007, 09:59 AM

I don't know anything about the Triton other than the things I read about, which are primarily favorable. The FT1700 has been in my router table since last spring, and I really like the above table features.

Shortly after I got the FT1700, the Milwaukee MW5625 went on sale for $190 shipped, so I grabbed one of those too. The MW5625 is a well built powerful router with some nice table features, but it doesn't offer the features that the 1700 has. After a trial period with the 5625, I reinstalled the FT1700 in the table, and have kept it there since. It's not as powerful as the MW, but has sufficient power to do occasional raised panels and most other tasks.

The table features of the 1700 outweigh the power advantage of the 5625 IMO. It's not perfect...the switch feels flimsy, but it's plugged into a router table switch anyway. And the adjustment threads have a bit more play than the MW's, but it's a minor thing to me....YMMV. If you plan to do alot of raised panels or will be really pouring the coals to it, maybe a more powerful router is in order, but for the majority of tasks I really like the FT1700. The FT3000 was not an option at the time, but may be another consideration now.

Good luck and please keep us posted!

Here are my reviews of both the 5625 and 1700 if you want more detail:
http://www1.epinions.com/content_245903494788 (5625)
http://www1.epinions.com/content_228357738116 (1700)

**RayintheUK** · 02-13-2007, 10:21 AM

Originally posted by theminor

The 2.25 HP unit has above the table height adjustment, where the 3.25 HP does not. The 2.25 HP also comes with a set of nice bushings. I wonder if the extra power will be worth the lack of above the table height adjustment? I will probably use it some for raised panels, but to be honest I've never really done raised panels. Still it is something I can see doing in the future. Does anyone know any other differences between the triton 3.25 and 2.25 units?

Thanks ChrisD for the above link, which is a comparative review of the two Triton routers (the bigger machine via a link at the top of the page).

The above-the-table height adjustment would be a big deal if it were not for the most excellent rack-and-pinion (r-a-p) system already built into both machines.

The larger router (TR*001) was the first model with the r-a-p winder and coupled with the easy (less than 10 seconds) plunge spring removal, makes the height adjustment a breeze anyway - and spot-on accurate when using the fine adjuster, which works throughout the effective plunge range.

The smaller machine (MOF001) has the identical r-a-p winder, easy plunge spring removal and fine adjuster of the big brother, with an additional handle that engages the fine adjuster via an extra hole in the mounting plate. The way this works is clearly shown in my review.

Given that you would have to reach beneath the table to work the r-a-p winder, that puts you at eye level to sight the bit height above the table. I've not seen the need to install the above-the-table winding handle for the smaller machine, as I've become used to adjusting the height initially with the r-a-p handle, then getting it spot-on via the fine adjuster. This process works equally well on both machines.

What this leaves is the matter of power and how much you need. Many will say that there is no substitute for raw power and this is often true. Both machines have soft start and variable speed (8,000 - 20,000 RPM) so will handle practically any router bit you could mount in them. Some bits, especially the larger ones, including horizontal panel-raisers, must be used in a table, but if you have the option of a tall fence you could drive a vertical panel-raiser quite easily with the smaller machine and have a more easily-manageable machine for hand-held use.

I've never had a problem using the larger one hand-held, especially with the extended base fitted, but the smaller one is the one to use with dovetail jigs (especially the Leigh D4), because it's much less "tippy" on a narrow platform.

The bushings are pretty much a free gift with the smaller machine, but, before they became available as an accessory for the larger router, I was already using a sub-base and another guide bush system, so that needn't be a deal-breaker.

I cannot comment on either your budget or your possible future use of either machine. I will say that the smaller one will easily handle mason's miter joints in kitchen counter-tops and raised panels incrementally (multiple passes) if the bit is suitable for such operation. For bits over 2.5" diameter, I would go for the larger machine.

Cosmetically, I actually prefer the plunge operating switch on the larger model, finding the smaller push-button variety a little prone to sticking, but this is easily overcome with a squirt of White Lightening, or similar and general loving and careful maintenance.

[Edit]Having been reminded by BigguyZ's post that it's a dedicated table machine, go for the bigger one. Both are made for table use (no upward-facing cooling slots when inverted), but if the machine is never going to be hand-held, get the biggest motor.[/Edit]

If that hasn't dealt with your questions, please post again, or drop me a PM. Please allow for the International time difference!

Ray.

**BigguyZ** · 02-13-2007, 01:14 PM

I definitely think that if it's a table-dedicated router, you should go for the most power possible. Then, get a smaller handheld one if you don't already have a second.

**theminor** · 02-13-2007, 03:02 PM

Originally posted by BigguyZ

I definitely think that if it's a table-dedicated router, you should go for the most power possible. Then, get a smaller handheld one if you don't already have a second.

Well this will be my second router, and I plan to leave it in the router table, almost exclusively. I'm tending to agree with you about the power, which means the big Triton. My only concern is lack of above-table adjustability. Ray says this is not something to be worried about with the rack-and-pinion Triton system, and I see the point there. The price seems right with the Triton as well.

Any other opinions as to not needing above-table bit height adjustment (on the Triton)? Also, has anyone found a better price than at Woodcraft ($215)?

Thanks again, Ray, BigguyZ, and others too!

**THyman** · 02-13-2007, 04:06 PM

Originally posted by theminor

Any other opinions as to not needing above-table bit height adjustment (on the Triton)? Also, has anyone found a better price than at Woodcraft ($215)?

Thanks again, Ray, BigguyZ, and others too!

Sommerfeld's has it for $199 but I do not know how much shipping would be?. See attached
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/searc...router&t=s&m=0

**RodKirby** · 02-13-2007, 04:27 PM

No contest - BIG Triton!

(But I may be a little biased

)

**MikeMcCoy** · 02-13-2007, 04:29 PM

I've only had mine for a month or so and it replaced a PC dedicated to the table. Adjustment is definitely not a problem as the micro adjust has the full range capability. The only complication I had (and it wasn't with the router) is that I had to make a bigger chip box to accomodate the larger size of the router. One thing about power is that you can always run small bits with a bigger router but your a little more limited running big bits on a smaller router. I don't know if that's a show stopper as I was running raised panel bits on the PC, just not as agressively.

**Curly Qsawn** · 02-13-2007, 06:16 PM

You may also want to consider the dust collection strategy. + for Triton; - for Freud.

**Jeffrey Schronce** · 02-13-2007, 06:23 PM

What type of RT are you putting it in? Is it enclosed?

**T-Bone** · 02-13-2007, 10:56 PM

I've had the Triton 3-1/4 in my table for about a month and would recommend it. I don't think having above-table height adjustment is necessary - just my opinion. I like to have my eye at table height anyway when making adjustments. Above-table bit changes are pretty awesome, though and now that I have it, I can't believe I used to take my old router out of the table every time I changed the bit.

**Jeffrey Schronce** · 02-14-2007, 12:24 AM

I have had the Triton for a couple weeks. It has replaced a Bosch 1617 that I had dedicated to the RT. My RT is enclosed with 4" DC connection in the bottom and 2.5" at the fence. The first thing I did was strip the Triton of the dust collection pieces, the plastic base and the plunge spring. Actually, the first thing I did was read the manual and understand the operation, try it for handheld use for a few minutes then began the gutting process. I mounted the router into a CMT table and insert. I have to say I really like the router for hand held use. The router is great in the table. Removal of the plunge spring was a breeze. I don't like the push buttom for free plunge as I think it would get junked up over time as Ray notes. However, you don't use free plunge mode in the RT so it does not matter. I am with Ray that its good to be at eye level when setting certain profile bits. I would rather be standing up using a lift to set raised panel bits with the pre-cut setting blocks, but its ok to be at eye level. The second method of adjustment is the handle winder plunge. It is a ring that surrounds the handle that you must kind of pull in with your fingers as you are turning the handle to make coarse adjustments. Like the free plunge push button I am a tiny bit worried about the potential problems with dust and this device. I guess it is the 2 failed power switches with the Bosch due to dust that concerns me. The good thing is that I know somebody who is an expert on the router should I run into problems, plus he is a nice guy

The micro adjuster is just great in that it smoothly runs through the entire plunge range. I don't like its position on the router when its in the RT (it's on the opposite side of the VS control) but its not too bad. I would like to have the option of a small crank for the fine adjustment when it is in the table. Kind of like the Bosch had a big knob that you could stick into the fine adjustment control. It would be easier to reach and easier to use. The way the knob is made a plastic crank could be fitted right over the adjustment knob. Please foward that suggestion to Triton. I don't want ownership of the part, just a couple of them and maybe a free router or something.
Again, I love the power. The router is great. There is only one real major beef with the machine and that is the safety switch. It seems that you should be able to disable that feature when it is in the router table. Handheld bit change I understand. But in the table your hands are above the table and router is secure. It's not going to get turned on. Like a lot of folks I have a Rockler on/off switch mounted on the outside of my RT that I use to control the router. With the Triton I have to turn off the Rockler switch, then bend down and open the door to my RT and manually close the door in order to allow me to engage the collet lock. I then go above the table and change the bit (very easy and I do like this feature). Back below to turn handles and make adjustments (which run smoothly). Then I have to push the power lock back while turning on the switch. Then I have to actually turn the router on by pushing the Rockler button. The safety switch is my only complaint. I wished that I could override it somehow. Bit changes are better than with the DeWalts push button collet lock. I always end up using two wrenchs with that set up. Of course on the Bosch 1617 2 wrenchs is the only option. I like that the collect lock actually locks in place and you don't have to hold it, like you do on the DeWalt or a Bosch Colt.
Anyway, end of story.
Get the Triton 3.25hp.

**T-Bone** · 02-14-2007, 09:38 AM

Jeffrey,

I have the same complaint as you on the safety switch. I've been contemplating removing the clear plastic "door" that slides over the switch. I think that would effectively disable it. If I try it, I'll let you know if it works.

One other note. I had a slight problem with the free plunge button sticking on my original router at first. I called Triton and they immediately sent a replacement. Well, the replacement had a slight problem with the plunge mechanism binding when mounted in the table (I had to use both hands to get it to move up - one turning the handle and one pushing the router up from below - even without the spring). I ended up sending the replacement back and the original button sticking problem eventually resolved itself, anyway - I was just out the shipping cost. Plus, as Jeffrey mentioned, I don't use the free plunge feature anyway because the router is dedicated to table use.

Travis

**theminor** · 02-14-2007, 09:53 AM

Thanks VERY much for the replies. Sounds like the Triton is the way to go.

My router table currently is a pretty crappy open thing. It is old and very basic. I'm going to build a new, ultimate table once I get the Triton to put under it.

My only concern at this point is the nuisance of having to go under the table to raise the bit and also to hit the safety switch for bit changes. These are definitely things I could live with, but I wonder how hard it would be to rig up some sort of crank mechanism that attaches to the microadjust knob (the plastic one on the 3.25 model that would be upside-down while the router is in the table) and have some sort of crank that can be turned from the outside. I'm imagining some sort of hight adjustment crank on the front of the cabinet that raises and lowers the bit like the saw blade is raised and lowered on a table saw. It might be a fun project to figure out. Almost definitely more trouble than it is worth, but it has the potential to be very cool, nonetheless.

I wonder if a similar rig could allow flipping the safety switch on and off from the outside of the router table cabinet? I don't really understand how the safety switch works so I don't know if this would be possible. I'm thinking some sort of lever mechanism that lets you flip the switch from outside the box.

These ideas are both probably not worth doing, but they would make for a very nice setup!

Triton 3.25 HP or 2.25 HP or Freud Router?

Triton 3.25 HP or 2.25 HP or Freud Router?

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