220V Remote for 2HP DC unit

[JSCOOK]

I'm a little puzzled and hoping someone might be able to clairify something for me ...

I'm wanting to get a remote control for my dust collector as the location I have it sitting in the shop make it difficult to turn OFF & ON.

My DC unit is the 2HP General 10-110-M1, which is 220V 9A, and does NOT have an option to be wired for 110V.

In looking at several remotes online, I've been particularly interested in the Shopfox/Grizzly remote H5397 due to price of $37USD and the fact it appears to come with 2 remotes.

The thing that is puzzling me, is that is seem from the few photos I've seen it appears the plug/receptacle used on most of these for 220V in the USA "may" differ from that commonly used here in Canada for 220V, and that on the end of my DC cord.


The plug/receptacle that appears to be used on the 220V Shopfox looks like:

EDITED: This is a MALE plug
Which from what I can find online seems to be for 220V 30A 3 wire grounding .




The plug that is on the end of my 220V DC unit, and the only plug that I've ever recall seeing for 220V here in Canada is:

EDITE: This is a MALE plug
This is rated for 220V 15A 3 wire grounding.



Can anyone verify the plug/receptacle used on the Shopfox/Grizzly 220V remote base unit?

I'm really not wanting to change the plug on the end of my DC if possible ...

I've looked at the 220V X10 remote system, but appears to fail frequently from what I've seen posted and read.

Another other options or suggestions?

Thanks,

[Stan]

JSCOOK,
Your fairly close with your drawing, we just put in one of the ShopFox remotes at work a few days ago. If you are looking at the connector on the remote unit, the horizontal slot is on the left and the vertical prong slot is on the right (with the ground prong hole on top).

Our dust collector plug had the same configuration as yours -- ground prong on top and two horizontal prongs.

A quick $2.50 fix by just replacing the DC plug. (Look at the specs for the plug on the front of the package -- there are two configurations which reverse the horizontal and vertical prongs). You will only lose about 1-1/2" of cord length unless your plug is not the molded type that has to be cut off (in which case you will not lose any length).

I did a quick google to see if there were adapters to change the prong configuration, but didn't come up with anything in the couple minutes I searched. They may be out there -- but I didn't spend a whole lot of time looking. If that idea is of interest, any local hardware store should be able to give you an answer if you take in a description of the different plug configurations.

[Tom Slick]

the difference in the plug that you see is due to their apmerage rating. the shopfox remote MUST use the pictured NEMA 6-20 connector because it is a 20 amp unit.
the DC you have is using the proper plug for it's rating which is a NEMA 6-15 becuase it only uses 9 amps and the lowest rated plug is a 15 amp plug. the only way to correct your problem is to make an adapter cord or change out the plug on the end of your DC.

Hey Stan, the difference in the drawing that you see is the drawing is of the plug not the receptacle that is why it looks backwards.


here is a helpful page

http://www.frentzandsons.com/Hardware%20References/plugandreceptacleconfiguratio.htm

[LCHIEN]

you show the top pic and says its a plug/recept.
but one is the mirror image of the other.

But the difference between the 120 and the 230V verisons is also a mirror image so its important as to which it is, P or R.

If you are going by a picture, is it possible they used the 120V unit picture for the 230V picture? because depending mirror images, it could be a 120V 20A receptacle you picture
The unit on the Grizz page clearly says 220V but it has a 110V plug and says 1-1/2 HP whereas the
220V unit handles 3 HP so there's quite a bit of picture trading going on.

[JSCOOK]

you show the top pic and says its a plug/recept.
but one is the mirror image of the other.

But the difference between the 120 and the 230V verisons is also a mirror image so its important as to which it is, P or R.

Sorry, I had found that out and that was why I stated the V and A for the them, I was just meaning to show the "style".

The strange part of all this is, the manufacturing shop at work has tools from 110V thru to 680V, and anything 220V is always the horizontal tabs, then if the amperage required is higher, the plug "style" changes to one with the tabs at opposing 45 degrees (NEMA 10-50P & 10-50R) or three vertical tabs + ground (NEMA 14-50P & 14-50R)
As long as I can recall, I've never seen the NEMA 6-20P or 6-20R style used up here ... but I could be wrong, and just not very common or used here.

If you are going by a picture, is it possible they used the 120V unit picture for the 230V picture? because depending mirror images, it could be a 120V 20A receptacle you picture.
The unit on the Grizz page clearly says 220V but it has a 110V plug and says 1-1/2 HP whereas the
220V unit handles 3 HP so there's quite a bit of picture trading going on.

Ya, I've wondered that myself ... check this out and tell me what NEMA the receptacle is on this? ... you still can read "up to 3hp" on the top, so it's the correct photo for 220V AFAIK ... it would have worked if the "vertical" tab had actually conformed to what I understand as NEMA 6-20R, then I would have simply cut the plug off the remote and changed it to suit.



So the long or the short of it, is that I'm trying to confirm what "style" of plug & receptacle is used ... I'm really not wanting to change the end of the DC to fit the receptacle on the remote, then having to change the plug on the remote to a 220V plug that will back into my wall outlet ... otherwise I might as well fork out 2x ~ 3X the cost of the ShopFox for something locally

[LCHIEN]

Well, that pic is of a NEMA 6-20R (250V, 20A).
Your DC evidently has the NEMA6-15P (250V, 15A) plug.

http://www.nooutage.com/nema_configurations.htm

Looking at the above chart,
the NEMA6-20R is often made with a T slot so that it can accept either
the NEMA 6-15P or the NEMA 6-20P plugs, e.g. since it can safely supply up to 20A, either a cord for a device using up to 15A or a device using up to 20A can be plugged into it.

For some reason, they did not use a fully compliant NEMA 6-20R receptacle with the T-slot on your shop Fox. Maybe because its one of those chassis mount snap-in plug rather than an electrical junction box plug.

In my opinion, it would not be unsafe to build a short adapter with a NEMA 6-20P at one end and a NEMA 6-15R at the other end. But it will probably cost you $14 bucks by the time you finish. Cutting off the DC plug and putting on a NEMA 6-20P plug will probably be cheaper ~$7.

[JSCOOK]

Ya, I think that makes sense ... I realized now that it looks like I got NEMA 6-20 (R or P) photo wrong (sorry for the confusion) and that there is also a NEMA 5-20 (R or P) which I now understand as the reverse to the other but only 120V 20A ... neither of these are very common here, if used at all.

I think what was throwing me was the fact that the ShopFox remote used NEMA 6-20R (which I wasn't familiar with) and that it then wasn't using the exact receptacle as shown by NEMA 6-20R form what I saw.

I've since posting been able to find someone here with some dusty stock of both the plug and receptacle for the NEMA 6-20 ... apparently only to accommodate electrical devices from the US requiring such ... so I can make some changes if I choose to go something along this way.

However, I've since read a few reviews questioning the electrical certification or UL testing of this unit, which has sort of turned me off even trying to use it now ...

So what are others using for DC remote ON/OFF control? ...

[LCHIEN]

...

So what are others using for DC remote ON/OFF control? ...

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19603&page=2&highlight=relay+box

My ISP is off-line now, if you want the construction article, send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will send it as an attachment.

[JSCOOK]

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ight=relay+box

My ISP is off-line now, if you want the construction article, send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will send it as an attachment.

Ahhh ... that sounds easy enough ... I had actually searched the forums first and had heard mention of something like this, but didn't seem to find the thread ... Thanks (will PM for attachement)