Compressors

**LCHIEN** · 02-01-2007, 09:02 AM

I always drain my tank with full air pressure in the tank... it of course helps push out the water as opposed to just gravity. Don't need much air volume assuming there's not a whole lot of moisture - usually won't even completely soak a paper towel. So when that's done, I should have a reasonably dry tankful of air.

I tend to turn it off and walk away leaving it like this. I could theorize that compressed air will make the tank rust faster with what little bit of moisture must be left at the bottom. because of the increased oxygen concentration (e.g. still 21% but 5-6x as much per volume as normal).

I suspect that's why they tell you to relieve pressure (also for safety).

Without leaving it powered, then additional moisture will not accumulate. Mine will bleed down to a few PSI after a day or two - I think the HF QC fittings on the hose leak a bit.

So I'm not really sure if its bad to leave the tank pressurized, but the compressor off.

As for using a portable tank, unless it has a regulator, your first and last shots will be at different pressures, if you gun is real sensitive to pressure vs. set depth then this will be bad. I could imagine a portable air tank with 120 PSI and a regulator set to 90 psi would be good for 15 shots of a brad nailer.

If your nailer is in the shop and its not too far, consider buying an extra 50' hose so you don't have to move the compressor. Just run the hose. With an air gun that uses air in spurts a long hose is an advantage (actually stores air closer to the gun, increasing your tank volume) rather than a disadvantage causing losses like a long extension cord.

**paintandbodtman** · 02-01-2007, 05:35 PM

Originally posted by LCHIEN

If your nailer is in the shop and its not too far, consider buying an extra 50' hose so you don't have to move the compressor. Just run the hose. With an air gun that uses air in spurts a long hose is an advantage (actually stores air closer to the gun, increasing your tank volume) rather than a disadvantage causing losses like a long extension cord.

Actually a long hose acts exactly like an extension cord in that if the ID is not of sufficent size there could be as much as 20-30 lbs drop in pressure from one end to the other in a 50 ft hose.

Wayne

**LCHIEN** · 02-01-2007, 06:29 PM

Originally posted by paintandbodtman

Actually a long hose acts exactly like an extension cord in that if the ID is not of sufficent size there could be as much as 20-30 lbs drop in pressure from one end to the other in a 50 ft hose.

Wayne

That's only true when there is continuous airflow (like a grinder or an paint sprayer).
You note I said "using air in spurts". The air hose is actually an accumulator. Most of the air used by one shot in a brad nailer is air in the reservoir in the handle.
It replenishes fairly quickly from the hose and has all the time between shots to equalize.

**crokett** · 02-01-2007, 06:51 PM

Loring,

Thanks. It sounds like I just will be getting off my lazy butt and sucking it up. However, the big compressors that folks get for their shops - how do they deal with the moisture? Do they periodically empty and refill the tanks? If so is there any reason why I couldn't follow the same maintenance cycle with mine?

**maxparot** · 02-01-2007, 11:31 PM

Originally posted by crokett

the big compressors that folks get for their shops - how do they deal with the moisture? Do they periodically empty and refill the tanks? If so is there any reason why I couldn't follow the same maintenance cycle with mine?

With a bigger tank generally if you drain the water daily by cracking open the drain valve on the bottom of the tank. Also with a larger tank a drain-o-mat can be installed this is a device that lets a bit of air and water out of the tank every time there is a preset pressure drop. This is better for compressors that get heavy use.

**Stytooner** · 02-02-2007, 06:24 AM

I never drain the air from tank on my large compressor. I do every so often (few days) drain the moisture. None of my shop is powered at night. After about a week, I might get a pint of water. I seem to get more moisture in the summer than in winter. Higher humidity?
I would drain it more often, but I just cannot remember to do it. I may need to look into that self maintaining drain.

**crokett** · 02-02-2007, 08:12 AM

Lee/Max - thanks. I guess the real answer is I need a bigger compressor. See now what I really want is one of those diesel powered jobs like I used for the jackhammer....

**p8ntblr** · 02-05-2007, 07:25 PM

Originally posted by crokett

I have some trim to put up to finally finish the fireplace. The real reason it wasn't up 2mos ago is to use my pancake compressor to do it I'd have to get it out, get the hose out, wait for it to fill, put up 2 pieces of trim (about 15 nails) then empty the compressor and put it all away. 20 minutes of work to use the nailer for < 5 minutes. A PITA.

I could use finish nails and my hammer but...

...how much harm is it to leave the compressor tank full? Is there a way to attenuate the moisture problem without losing the compressed air? I know I can charge a bottle off the compressor but how would I do this? Is it ok to leave compressed air in a bottle and keep a real short hose for the quickie jobs and shop use? How many shots would I get off a bottle - assuming I am using a 16gua finish nailer and an 18gua brad nailer.

You could always buy a gas or electric powered nailer. I used my neighbor's Paslode before I got my pneumatic nailer and I thought it worked just as well. Just a little heavy for my liking plus the cost difference.

**Jeffrey Schronce** · 02-05-2007, 07:36 PM

Originally posted by crokett

I guess the real answer is I need a bigger compressor.

Isn't that always the answer?

Compressors

Compressors

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