What blades to get?

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  • p8ntblr
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 921
    • So Cal
    • Craftsman 22114

    #1

    What blades to get?

    What blades do you guys use/recommend for both ripping and finishing work with a table saw. I don't have a huge budget so I'm looking for a "best bang for the buck" type blades.

    I'm also looking to replace my 12" miter saw blade in the near future. Probably will go for a 60T for both fine and rough cutting. Unless you guys think getting 2 seperate (mabye 40T and 80T) is a better idea. Anyways, thanks for your input.
    -Paul
  • linear
    Senior Member
    • May 2004
    • 612
    • DeSoto, KS, USA.
    • Ryobi BT3100

    #2
    If you don't need to saw 3" thick boards, you can use an 8" blade and save big dough.
    --Rob

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    • p8ntblr
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2007
      • 921
      • So Cal
      • Craftsman 22114

      #3
      Originally posted by linear
      If you don't need to saw 3" thick boards, you can use an 8" blade and save big dough.
      any brand/model you recommend?
      -Paul

      Comment

      • Knottscott
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2004
        • 3815
        • Rochester, NY.
        • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

        #4
        Of the dozens of good blades I've had the privilege of trying, the Freud LU88R010 is one my all time favorites. It'll rip well to about 6/4" material and cuts very cleanly in most everything...a bit cleaner than even my WWII, DW7657, Ridge Carbide TS2000, Tenryu Gold, and Infinity combo. How's that for a testimonial of a $45 blade?! The others are all excellent choices IMHO, but the LU88 is more than capable of holding it's own in their company. (in the $50 range, the Infinity is a good altnerative)

        The LU88 is listed as a crosscut blade but it's unique in that it has a 15 degree hook angle more like most 40T general purpose blades, so it rips well and is more versatile than most 60T blades. A good 80T has potential to cut cleaner, (assuming the quality is comparable, otherwise it won't cut as cleanly) but the 80T blades are more prone to burning and are less versatile. The cuts I get with the LU88 are good enough that I literally never use my 80T blades. If you want to add a second blade, my advice is to grab a 24T ripper to handle the really thick stuff and spare your motor. (Freud LU87, DW7124 are good choices in the $30-$35 range)

        http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU88R010...8?ie=UTF8&s=hi

        http://www.epinions.com/content_226312687236

        Amazon may have some good deals on a 12" miter saw blade...check their DeWalt DW7649 for $60.
        Last edited by Knottscott; 11-29-2008, 05:24 AM.
        Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

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        • p8ntblr
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2007
          • 921
          • So Cal
          • Craftsman 22114

          #5
          Originally posted by Dustmight
          Of the dozens of good blades I've had the privilege of trying, the Freud LU88R010 is one my all time favorites. It'll rip well to about 6/4" material and cuts very cleanly in most everything...a bit cleaner than even my WWII, DW7657, Ridge Carbide TS2000, Tenryu Gold, and Infinity combo. How's that for a testimonial of a $45 blade?! The others are all excellent choices IMHO, but the LU88 is more than capable of holding it's own in their company. (in the $50 range, the Infinity is a good altnerative)

          The LU88 is listed as a crosscut blade but it's unique in that it has a 15 degree hook angle more like most 40T general purpose blades, so it rips well and is more versatile than most 60T blades. A good 80T has potential to cut cleaner, (assuming the quality is comparable, otherwise it won't cut as cleanly) but the 80T blades are more prone to burning and are less versatile. The cuts I get with the LU88 are good enough that I literally never use my 80T blades. If you want to add a second blade, my advice is to grab a 24T ripper to handle the really thick stuff and spare your motor. (Freud LU87, DW7124 are good choices in the $30-$35 range)

          http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU88R010...8?ie=UTF8&s=hi

          http://www.epinions.com/content_226312687236

          Amazon may have some good deals on a 12" miter saw blade...check their DeWalt DW7649 for $60.
          Thanks Dustmight. with a 100% of the reviewers giving it 5 stars along with your recommedation I think I'll get the LU.
          -Paul

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          • MilDoc

            #6
            I agree with dustmights recommendation - great blade!

            Comment

            • ragswl4
              Veteran Member
              • Jan 2007
              • 1559
              • Winchester, Ca
              • C-Man 22114

              #7
              If you use the LU88 on the BT3100 do you use a dampner? I ordered the blade and then read some opinions that a dampner should be used. Thanks.
              RAGS
              Raggy and Me in San Felipe
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              • MilDoc

                #8
                Originally posted by ragswl4
                If you use the LU88 on the BT3100 do you use a dampner? I ordered the blade and then read some opinions that a dampner should be used. Thanks.
                I don't - tried one, made no difference.

                Comment

                • Knottscott
                  Veteran Member
                  • Dec 2004
                  • 3815
                  • Rochester, NY.
                  • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

                  #9
                  Originally posted by ragswl4
                  If you use the LU88 on the BT3100 do you use a dampner? I ordered the blade and then read some opinions that a dampner should be used. Thanks.
                  If you buy a stabilizer you'll help subsidize someone else who will then be able take their wife to lunch. It's a very selfless gesture on your part that might even save a marriage!. But I'm kind of a self-centered thinker who thinks you should take YOUR wife to lunch instead!

                  Honestly, the vast majority who've tried them see no difference. Some use them just because they have them and there's no harm in it, but you'll rarely see an improvement with blades the caliber of the LU88, WWII, TS2000, Tenryu, Infinity, CMT, Amana, etc. That's especially true with modern saws that have low arbor runout.
                  Last edited by Knottscott; 01-21-2007, 04:09 AM.
                  Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

                  Comment

                  • Cheeky
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 862
                    • westchester cty, new york
                    • Ridgid TS2400LS

                    #10
                    i use the freud LU87R010 for ripping (thin kerf ripping blade great for low powered saws) on my ridgid ts2400. the blade is simply awesome, and it's leaps and bounds better than the garbage stock blade. the blade yields a nice smooth line.

                    i think i paid $26 dollars for it when it was a special on amazon. it's now at 35, which is still a nice price, but you can procure industrial freuds for less when they are sale priced (either a nice accessories % off or sale).

                    http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010...0?ie=UTF8&s=hi
                    Pete

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                    • LCHIEN
                      Super Moderator
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 22006
                      • Katy, TX, USA.
                      • BT3000 vintage 1999

                      #11
                      Dampeners/Stiffeners = waste of time/money/depth of cut
                      Loring in Katy, TX USA
                      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                      Comment

                      • ragswl4
                        Veteran Member
                        • Jan 2007
                        • 1559
                        • Winchester, Ca
                        • C-Man 22114

                        #12
                        Freud LU88

                        Got the blade today and did some trial cuts on 3/4" curly maple and padauk. Crosscuts produced no tearout. Ripping the curly maple I got a little burn mark in one area (could be technique) and none on the paduak. With the OEM blade on the BT3100 I used to get a lot of burn marks on both types of wood when ripping and always tearout during crosscutting. Seems to be a great blade.
                        RAGS
                        Raggy and Me in San Felipe
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