Difference in TS and MS blades?

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  • SARGE..g-47

    #16
    Afternoon isddarms...

    Just my personal applications but:

    I run a CMT TK 24 tooth rip that has 2 alternating teeth at high Positive degree hook with one flat tooth thrown in between. Best ripping blade I have found for $32 and I've tried a few. I used to run the older style Freud TK 306 24 t which is simailar but is entirely ATB and at a good price (under $30). It's a good rip blade but the CMT edges it with that flat tooth.

    I run a Freud mitre blade on my SCMS that has a 5* deg Negative hook. Best I have found reasonably at around $60.

    I also "don't do" combo (all purpose) blades on the TS. Forrest has had the market captured on that one for awhile but..... but... Freud's new 40 tooth FUSION blade may give Forrest a run for there money from the indications and feed-back that is coming in from previous Forrest owners that have tried it. The returns from all precincts are not in yet.. but the one's that are say they were shocked that the Freud out-preformed the "you know who".

    Regards...
    Last edited by Guest; 01-16-2007, 11:24 AM.

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    • scorrpio
      Veteran Member
      • Dec 2005
      • 1566
      • Wayne, NJ, USA.

      #17
      Originally posted by SARGE..g-47
      I also "don't do" combo (all purpose) blades on the TS. Forrest has had the market captured on that one for awhile but..... but... Freud's new 40 tooth FUSION blade may give Forrest a run for there money from the indications and feed-back that is coming in from previous Forrest owners that have tried it. The returns from all precincts are not in yet.. but the one's that are say they were shocked that the Freud out-preformed the "you know who".
      I would like to humbly point out:
      Amazon:
      Freud Fusion 40T: $99.99
      Forrest WWII: $95.74 (Thin kerf is $89.99)

      I kinda expect better performance from a more expensive blade. If Fusion was like $50, that would be something to be shocked about.

      Comment

      • SARGE..g-47

        #18
        I would like to humbly point out:
        Amazon:
        Freud Fusion 40T: $99.99
        Forrest WWII: $95.74 (Thin kerf is $89.99)

        I kinda expect better performance from a more expensive blade. If Fusion was like $50, that would be something to be shocked about.
        Today 01:19 PM
        ************************************************** *******

        And I won't pay that much for any blade.. period. :>)

        What I reffered to was not the price as I didn't even know what it was before you posted it. What I was referring was that the Forrest has been lauded as being the "king of the mountain" for a long time and I doubt that anyone suspected that would ever end.

        I think the general feeling is what could you do to improve it and the answer all in one sentence is "not much". But.. it appears that Freud came up with a new idea and those that have used it are beginning to trickle out of the wood-work and possibly dispute the crown. That was what was reffered to as "shocking".

        I have not used it and probalby won't at that price as I personlly feel I can get 3 excellent carbide blades for those prices and that's exactly what I do. Was just passing what I've seen in print and circulating verbally.

        Regards...
        Last edited by Guest; 01-16-2007, 12:14 PM.

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        • Knottscott
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2004
          • 3815
          • Rochester, NY.
          • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

          #19
          Originally posted by isddarms
          I love the info on this site!

          To take this a step further: What blade would y'all recommend for (1) a replacement on the BT3100, (2) a 10" radial arm saw, and (3) a 12" [not-sliding] miter saw? Something of good, but not necessarily top-of-the-line quality.
          (1) a replacement on the BT3100:
          - Best bang for the buck - Freud TK306 40T from Sears $17
          http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/displ...vertical=SEARS
          - Step up - Freud LU86R010 40T ~ $35
          http://www.epinions.com/content_227985493636
          - Bigger step up - Freud LU88R010 60T ~ $45
          http://www.epinions.com/content_226312687236
          - Infinity 010-150 50T combo - $50 on sale
          http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1196
          - Top of the line step - Ridge Carbide TS2000, WWII, or Freud Fusion $90-$100
          http://www.holbren.com/home.php?cat=51
          http://www.epinions.com/content_145552674436

          (2) a 10" radial arm saw:
          - Freud LU91M010 60T - $50 shipped from Amazon
          - Infinity 010-060 - $50
          http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1197

          (3) a 12" [not-sliding] miter saw
          - DEWALT DW7650 80T - $50 shipped from Amazon
          http://www.epinions.com/content_245518143108
          Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

          Comment

          • LarryG
            The Full Monte
            • May 2004
            • 6693
            • Off The Back
            • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

            #20
            How about a rip-only blade for the BT3100? I have a WWII, and there's still plenty of life in the OEM blade too, but no dedicated rip blade. (I did a search for "rip blade" and got 13 pages of hits ... urgh.)

            Cost is always an object, but I'm more concerned about performance than dollars.

            Sarge has one good recommendation in the CMT TK 24 ... what does everyone else like?
            Last edited by LarryG; 01-16-2007, 01:45 PM.
            Larry

            Comment

            • phrog
              Veteran Member
              • Jul 2005
              • 1796
              • Chattanooga, TN, USA.

              #21
              Thanks to ALL

              Thanks to ALL who have replied or submitted additional questions on this topic thus far. Very interesting.
              Richard
              Richard

              Comment

              • Holbren
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2004
                • 707
                • Orange City, FL.

                #22
                I personally have never used a 24T blade and I have a stockpile of them. Unless I have to do a lot of ripping I just don't want to be bothered changing the blade out. The 40T combo blades are a nice compromise between the 60T and 24T blades but aren't the best on sheet goods. I never tried the blue tape method to prevent chipout but that may be a good way go get your 40T combo blade to a 60T cut quality for sheet goods.

                My new saw came with an 80T FTG grind (why I don't know) but that's staying on until I have a lot of pain cutting wood.

                In an ideal world with unlimited funds and didn't mind changing blades I would have a:

                24T ripper
                60T crosscut
                80T Hi-ATB for sheet goods.
                Brian
                Holbren, Whiteside, LRH, Ridge, Tenryu, Norton
                "BT310" coupon code = 10% for forum members
                www.holbren.com

                Comment

                • drumpriest
                  Veteran Member
                  • Feb 2004
                  • 3338
                  • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
                  • Powermatic PM 2000

                  #23
                  I have several blades roaming about the shop. 90% of the time there's a forrest woodworker II on my table saw. I also have a 24T freud ripping blade for the TS, and a 60T freud blade for the TS. I use a -5 degree hook freud slide miter blade in my makita SCMS.

                  I also keep a couple of el-cheapo blades around for doing rough work.
                  Oh yeah, and timberwolf blades are on my band-saw, and olsen on my scroll saw, and bosch in my jigsaw. ;-)
                  Keith Z. Leonard
                  Go Steelers!

                  Comment

                  • LCHIEN
                    Super Moderator
                    • Dec 2002
                    • 22052
                    • Katy, TX, USA.
                    • BT3000 vintage 1999

                    #24
                    Originally posted by cpritchard
                    Thanks for clearing it up. It kind of makes me upset though, that a retailer will sell you a miter saw with blades in the range of 10 and 15 degree hook. Shouldn't they give you ones closer to 0 then?
                    they generally give you "general purpose" ones that have fewer teeth because they are cheaper, and btw, they won't have low angle hooks because they are general purpose.
                    Loring in Katy, TX USA
                    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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