Help!-Bandsaw set up (G0555)

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  • drunkcat
    Established Member
    • Sep 2004
    • 116
    • Elgin IL
    • BTK

    Help!-Bandsaw set up (G0555)

    I recently got a Grizzly G0555 and put a riser block on it. When I added the riser block, I had to do some serious shimming of the upper wheel to get it coplaner with the bottom.

    In doing this I am now finding that with my 1/2 inch resaw blade the bearings will not move far enough foward to sit just behind the gullet. With the bearings all the way forward, they are only flush with the back 1/3 of the blade.

    Has anyone else ran into this yet? Is there a fix? I haven't called Griz yet.

    Thanks,
    Scott
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 21141
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    Originally posted by drunkcat
    I recently got a Grizzly G0555 and put a riser block on it. When I added the riser block, I had to do some serious shimming of the upper wheel to get it coplaner with the bottom.

    In doing this I am now finding that with my 1/2 inch resaw blade the bearings will not move far enough foward to sit just behind the gullet. With the bearings all the way forward, they are only flush with the back 1/3 of the blade.

    Has anyone else ran into this yet? Is there a fix? I haven't called Griz yet.

    Thanks,
    Scott
    Is there any play in the riser block (e.g. can you twist it) before you tighten it down or is it pretty much locked into place with alignment pins?
    If the former you can losen the flange bolts and rotate the upper assy some, perhaps.

    And did you check with winding strips whether the top and bottom flanges of the riser block were on parallel planes?
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-13-2007, 12:53 AM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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    • T-Bone
      Forum Newbie
      • Jan 2004
      • 74
      • Helena, MT

      #3
      I had to make a couple of the alignment holes on the riser block bigger to allow a little extra adjustment and get the wheels to be coplaner before I tightened it down. Once that was done, no shimming was required.

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