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I am not sure if this is exactly a tool in the normal sense but that is what I think of it as so I will post it here. I used to carry boards on top of my SUV but recently had a nasty experience with the new (and expensive) roof rack for my 2006 Suzuki GV so I bought a little HF 4x8 trailer - the one with the 12 inch wheels. They had it on sale before Christmas and then also had a 15% off coupon which brought the total cost just over $200. I like the trailer and offer these "lessons learned" for those contemplating buying one of these trailers.
1) It comes in two boxes, one that is fairly small and light containing the wheels, lights, coupler, etc. and one around 5 feet long with the frame that is quite heavy. Fortunately I put the hitch carrier on my GV before I left and the long heavy box went on that. The shipping weight is over 200 lbs and most of that is in the one box so be prepared.
2) There are lots of parts and they go together mostly with 3/8 bolts with nylon locks in the nut. My son was helping and we put them together loosely at first which was good because we ended up redoing a few things. The instructions are decent but some things you just have to look closely at the pictures to get.
3) When things do not line up, loosen bolts and try shifting. We had to do this more than once.
4) Bolting on a plywood deck is perhaps the worst part. After I was done, I discovered a diagram in the directions that would have helped. I countersunk the bolts which also took more time. I tried marking with the plywood upside down but measuring on the second half sheet seemed to go better. If I was to do this again, I would bolt the whole sheet in place and then rip it down the center (with the blade carefully adjusted to the plywood thickness). It was a little challenging to get the second half sheet to align to my satisfaction.
5) If the hinges will not let the two halves of the trailer fold up tight, loosen the hinge bolts and try again.
6) When you stand this thing up, be ready for the weight. You first fold the back half of the trailer on the front and then pick up the front. You are thus lifting half of a 200 lb plus trailer. The directions say to have help which wouldn't be a bad idea. It also feels tippy in the upright position. The last step is to lower the tongue which helps stability.
7) You need something to hold the two halves folded when it's upright. I made a short piece that bolts to the stake pockets.
8) If you want to carry 4x8 sheet goods, do not make the wood sides the way the directions say. They say to put 2x pieces in the stake pockets and then bolt 3/4 thick pieces to that on the inside. That will result in less than 4x8 capacity. If you make the whole side rail structure of 2x but join it with half laps (or I used mortise and tenon on the top), you can keep just over 4x8 capacity. I cut the structure down to 1 1/8 so I can carry MDF or melamine which comes in 49x97 inch sheets.
Jim
1) It comes in two boxes, one that is fairly small and light containing the wheels, lights, coupler, etc. and one around 5 feet long with the frame that is quite heavy. Fortunately I put the hitch carrier on my GV before I left and the long heavy box went on that. The shipping weight is over 200 lbs and most of that is in the one box so be prepared.
2) There are lots of parts and they go together mostly with 3/8 bolts with nylon locks in the nut. My son was helping and we put them together loosely at first which was good because we ended up redoing a few things. The instructions are decent but some things you just have to look closely at the pictures to get.
3) When things do not line up, loosen bolts and try shifting. We had to do this more than once.
4) Bolting on a plywood deck is perhaps the worst part. After I was done, I discovered a diagram in the directions that would have helped. I countersunk the bolts which also took more time. I tried marking with the plywood upside down but measuring on the second half sheet seemed to go better. If I was to do this again, I would bolt the whole sheet in place and then rip it down the center (with the blade carefully adjusted to the plywood thickness). It was a little challenging to get the second half sheet to align to my satisfaction.
5) If the hinges will not let the two halves of the trailer fold up tight, loosen the hinge bolts and try again.
6) When you stand this thing up, be ready for the weight. You first fold the back half of the trailer on the front and then pick up the front. You are thus lifting half of a 200 lb plus trailer. The directions say to have help which wouldn't be a bad idea. It also feels tippy in the upright position. The last step is to lower the tongue which helps stability.
7) You need something to hold the two halves folded when it's upright. I made a short piece that bolts to the stake pockets.
8) If you want to carry 4x8 sheet goods, do not make the wood sides the way the directions say. They say to put 2x pieces in the stake pockets and then bolt 3/4 thick pieces to that on the inside. That will result in less than 4x8 capacity. If you make the whole side rail structure of 2x but join it with half laps (or I used mortise and tenon on the top), you can keep just over 4x8 capacity. I cut the structure down to 1 1/8 so I can carry MDF or melamine which comes in 49x97 inch sheets.
Jim
Can you give me a guestimate of sizes of the two shipping boxes? Compact sedans don't make good box haulers either. Five foot lengths I can handle provided the other two dimentsion don't exceed ~14 inches. How sturdy is the trailer when fully assembled? Any concerns about taking it on the interstates (short distances)?
Loring in Katy, TX USA
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