Gloat: AP1300

[bigdaddyjohn]

I know most of you already purchased your planers long ago, but for those of us who have had to wait, finding an ap1300 has been difficult. I went to the Borg tonight in order to purchase the lesser ap1301 as I need to clean up some wood for a rocking horse christmas present. Much to my suprise, I found a display model for $199. Couldn't talk them down as I don't think the department personel actually understood the difference between the display and what was clearly pictured on the 1301 box. I tried not to laugh. However, I was able to get him to throw in an extra set of 13" knives for free!

But of course there is always a downside isn't there. Once home, I realized it was missing the dust chute and the 2 screws for it. I have email Ryobi support and asked for them to send it to me but won't hold my breath.

Tommorow, I'll go back to the store and try to get a few bucks back since the parts are missing. I'd settle for a dust chute from the 1301 if they have placed one on display.

I'm happy to find it. The reviews for the 1300 are much better than the 1301. I had planned on saving for the Rigid since it has the stand and outfeed tables but really only wanted the Ryobi. Was reluctant to purchase the 1301 in the first place but had resolved to bite the bullet.

[RickD1]

Bigdadyjohn,

I too got lucky and found an AP1300. I happened to be in Ridgecrest, CA on business, went into the local HD looking for a 12 gage extension cord I saw in the bargin alerts and saw a floor model AP1300 on display. I looked it over carefully. It had a ton of dust on it, but every thing was there except the "remove to lock" part of the switch. I spoke with one of the tool section workers and asked if they could sell me the display since all they had in boxes was the new AP1301 models. They didn't even realize there was a difference until I pointed it out. They were more than happy to sell it to me for $149.00. I got nervous and felt like I was taking advantage of them to bargin any further. When I got it home, I found out that the part of the switch that was missing was the same part that is used on my drill press and my tile saw. The tile saw came with an extra. I took my time in setting it up, getting it hooked up to the DC, and am amazed at how nicely it does its job.

Rick

[RickD1]

One other thing I learned here and checked very quickly was the hex head screw that retain the blades. I read that they were almost impossible to get out. In the post I read, a suggestion was made to not use the supplied allen wrench to remove those screw. I got a known good allen wrench and found out that I was unable to get one screw out of one blade and was only able to get one screw out of the other blade. Needless to say all of the screws that i could not initially get out end up getting stripped. I had to drill and easy out all of those screws. I am now trying to find replacements. I am worried that a regular hex head screw will protrude too much and damage the surface of the piece i am trying to work on or damage the machine.

Rick

[bigdaddyjohn]

thanks for the info

Thanks for the warning. I read the horror stories also. One said to not use it until you make sure you can get them out first. However, if I'm going to strip them anyway, I'll use it until I have to change the blades. Why mess it up before I even get my Christmas project finished.

bigdaddyjohn

[fiasco]

I got my ap1300 not to long ago. I had to search 8 or 9 HD's until I found one that still had them. I pointed out the tag being ap1301.

They had two left, the display and one new in box. I got them both for $300 and sold the display model on ebay for $150.

Sooo.. I paid roughly $150 for a new in box AP1300 from home depot.

[LCHIEN]

... I am worried that a regular hex head screw will protrude too much and damage the surface of the piece i am trying to work on or damage the machine.

Rick

When I broke a similar function screw on my Delta Benchtop Planer, I replaced it with a round head slotted screw. Had plenty of clearance.

[RickD1]

Loring,

After seeing what a bear the hex heads were to get out I am a little hesitant to put in straight slot or phillips screws.

Another place I noticed problems with ryobi screws was on my BT3100. When I unpacked it I found a phillips head, just the head no threaded shank under it, that made me wonder where it could be from. After searching around I found my problem. It was one of the phillips head screws on the DC shroud that surrounds the blade. I wanted to replace that one and in the process of removing the others, one more screw head broke off. I was able to drill and easy out the remainder of the two studs and lost confidence in the remaining screws. I replaced all of the shroud screws with stainless hex heads there and in the cover plates on the base of the saw. I like to know the fasteners that are there are doing the job the design engineers put them there for. I get a little over the edge on things like that.

Rick

[LCHIEN]

Loring,

After seeing what a bear the hex heads were to get out I am a little hesitant to put in straight slot or phillips screws.

Another place I noticed problems with ryobi screws was on my BT3100. When I unpacked it I found a phillips head, just the head no threaded shank under it, that made me wonder where it could be from. After searching around I found my problem. It was one of the phillips head screws on the DC shroud that surrounds the blade. I wanted to replace that one and in the process of removing the others, one more screw head broke off. I was able to drill and easy out the remainder of the two studs and lost confidence in the remaining screws. I replaced all of the shroud screws with stainless hex heads there and in the cover plates on the base of the saw. I like to know the fasteners that are there are doing the job the design engineers put them there for. I get a little over the edge on things like that.

Rick

My suggestion was based upon profile. i assumed you were worried that the edge of the more or less square profile allen head or socket head cap screws might protrude and hit the work, the round head solved the same problem for me. I think i production the socket head cap screws are more suited to automatic tools and that's why the use them. I don't think the cap screws are inherently stronger or anything. Maybe just overtorqued by the assembly tools.