Blade Height

[HarmsWay]

Yes, and I should have qualified my last post by saying that I was only considering two things: the force required to cut the wood and direction of that force. Obviously, I wouldn't recommend setting blade height any higher than the typical recommendations. You don't know me but I would be considered a risk averse person (one reason for the name).

This discussion reminds me of a home reno show I was watching with my wife on the weekend where a carpenter was cutting curves in plywood freehand on a table saw. My wife asked if I could do that (the shows producers obviously thought it was cool). I said no then added that for every experienced carpenter that can do that successfully there are 16 that failed, 2 that wrecked their saw blade and 1 that became a workman's compensation statistic.

Bob

[Ed62]

This is an interesting thread. Another consideration might be that if the blade is raised, let's say to it's highest elevation (to exaggerate the situation), There is a lot more blade area exposed. Not taking into consideration cutting characteristics, there would be more of the blade available for the workpiece to get pinched into if there is a slight sideways movement of the workpiece. Granted, *any* sideways movement is not good, but there comes a point when you reach that "just right" point, and you get a kickback.

Ed

[JimD]

I guess from the safety comment you are cutting without the guard as I usually do. I can't see how there is a safety difference if the guard is in place. If you take the guard off, you are taking chances. You have to keep your hand out of the blade. I hate to think about the damage 1/8 inch of blade would do. Maybe I should put the guard back on.

Jim

[HarmsWay]

Another consideration might be that if the blade is raised, let's say to it's highest elevation (to exaggerate the situation), There is a lot more blade area exposed. Not taking into consideration cutting characteristics, there would be more of the blade available for the workpiece to get pinched into if there is a slight sideways movement of the workpiece.

Yes, more blade, but less teeth. That would definitely be true if the teeth had no set, but I don't know whether its the teeth and/or the blade body that will cause the problem.

BTW, a riving knife such as the one included with the BT3 (or even better Lee's Shark knife) reduces the pinching problem almost completely. It doesn't keep it from pinching but it touches the stationary knife instead of the rotating blade.

Bob

[Stytooner]

I have heard different heights between the gullets to the tooth tip. Freud reccomends less than Forrest. Personally, I think anywhere in the mentioned area is okay with preference given to the higher setting and letting the gullet clear. This reduces the cutting forces or at least seems to and uses the table more to support the cut.
A duller blade would have more of a tendency to lift the stock at the lower setting.

[softop41]

I use these guide lines..
no guard = minimum tooth exposure(laceration instead of amputation as someone has already posted)
Shark guard = at least the full gullet exposed to alllow dust collection, cooling, tooth angle, etc.
FWIW
Jerry

[SARGE..g-47]

I run a CMT 24 T rip blade with a CMT stiffner on my saw almost exclusively. I prefer to raise the blade to the bottom of the gullet to get fewer teeth involved on the downward cutting motion. I have also noticed that I seem to get less of a tendency to burn when a blade starts to head in the direction of dull in my own experiences.

I modeled and cut my own riving knifes from old, dull sawblades after the original knife on the BT with the exception that I eliminated the U shape at the base of the knife that slides over the 2 attaching bolts and nuts at it's base. I drilled 2 solid holes instead so if kick-back come, it cannot slide up and off without breaking the 2 grade 8 bolts.

Also... I cut two holes in the top and installed a European "crown guard" with the exception that it will not raise as it it not hinged. There are two quick release T-nut bolts through the crown guard with T handles attached on the opposite side. Again, if kick-back comes the 2 aircraft grade bolts and nuts will have to be severed to make the piece raise higher than the "crown gaurd".

Unless cutting tenons or dadoes (which I prefer to do with a router) the crown guard and riving knife will never come off. I also run a Euro "short fence" I built to go over the top of my existing original fence so once the tail end of the stock has cleared the first 4-5 downward cutting teeth, the stock cannot pinch the fence in the latter stages of follow through in that open space the "short fence" creates.

Regards...