I think you will find the repetition not to be so bad as most of us don't grasp everything firmly with one reading. And you will forget finer points that don't come up every day that books serve as reference for. I have read Leonard Lee's book on sharpening at least 15 times throughly and do you suppose I can remember every point made? Nope.. I open it and re-read certain sections at least 4-6 times a year. If I only had a photo-static mind!
IMO, the carbide requires too much tension for your saw to pull even with an addition of a heavier spring. I would keep it in the 1/2" range with a Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking or a Timberwolve from Suffolk. They will not last as long as a carbide, but they don't cost near as much.
Standard carbon steel (general cutting and curves) cannot with-stand the heat factor of re-saw with the increased friction from thicker stock. It will over-heat and dis-temper quickly placed in that situation. The thinner kerf WS or TW with their variable cut will get it done even though they will not last as long as carbide, but you can keep 4 or more on hand for the price of one good carbide.
Regards...
IMO, the carbide requires too much tension for your saw to pull even with an addition of a heavier spring. I would keep it in the 1/2" range with a Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking or a Timberwolve from Suffolk. They will not last as long as a carbide, but they don't cost near as much.
Standard carbon steel (general cutting and curves) cannot with-stand the heat factor of re-saw with the increased friction from thicker stock. It will over-heat and dis-temper quickly placed in that situation. The thinner kerf WS or TW with their variable cut will get it done even though they will not last as long as carbide, but you can keep 4 or more on hand for the price of one good carbide.
Regards...
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