You can even make your own bases using .220 acrylic from your local borg. It runs for about $12 for a 2 X 4 sheet.
HF Dovetail Jig - Thumbs down
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Pcombs,
I've almost got it working. I'm into it for a bit over $50 thus far. That includes:
HF jig: $29.99 + tax
Whiteside 1/2" D x 1/4" Shank x 14* DT bit: $20 + tax at local Woodcraft.
I already had the 7/16" template guide bushing.
I cut set #5 last night and it looks like the tails are still too big. Should I be adjusting the bit upward?
If I can get good DTs with no additional expenditures, I'll keep it and may even look for a dedicated DT router, since depth-adjustment appears to be everything.
Has anyone tried this jig with a Rockler thru-dovetail template? Thru DTs are what I really want, may go for the MLCS kit, but if the Rockler will work with this thing, I'll try their template.
Back with more details as news becomes available...Comment
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This is my first and only experience with dovetails so I can't speak to comparisons. I'm sure the PC and Leigh jigs are much nicer and I would love to get one at some point so that I can do through dovetails.
But I was able to get the HF jig set up to make some reasonable dovetails for drawers for my workbench:
http://ssmith1627.myphotoalbum.com/v...d=150_5051_IMG
Good enough for my purposes !
SteveComment
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BrazosJake
The MCLS jig should be about $50 on sale or more. Looks the same as HF jig.
I think if you figure in the hassle factor, wasted time and frustration, I think the PC 4212 outweights the HF or Rockler.
Don't get me wrong, I really love the prices at HF, but some things work well while others don't.Comment
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jig
what in the heck does Leigh == duck's guts[/QUOTE] mean? is this a recommendation or a warning against? i've heard that the AKEDA DC-16V is one of the best.
louisComment
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Dunno, but I did finally get some decent DTs out of the HF jig, so cheapo that I am, will keep it.
Maybe buttering up Santa for the MLCS thru DT jig:-)Comment
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My HF dovetail jig is my third dovetail jig. It takes a bit more time to setup right but will cut half blind dovetails as good as any jig. You may also have to take a file to a bolt or two but the metal is thick and the basic design is sound. The thing that takes longer than a jig like the PC are the stops at the sides for the drawer front and side and the stop that contols how deep into the drawer front you cut. The PC controls the difference in the stop for the front versus the side by making a stop that controls both with a machined in difference. It works fine as long as you never want to use a different finger guide (or template guide). I use both a 7/16 guide from Grizzly and the 1/2 inch that came with the HF so I like the ability to adjust these guides. The depth bar lets me use baltic birch plywood sides which I could not with my older Woodsmith dovetail jig and I suspect will also not work well with the PC.
The directions with the HF are trash. With the Woodstock directions, the HF is a good jig for half-blind dovetails. I made a setup jig for depth (just a block of plywood about 4 inches by 4 inches with a deep notch in the center and a fine thread drywall screw in the center of the notch adjusted to just touch the dovetail bit when it is at the right depth). I put the HF on a base and marked the side guide position on the baltic birch base so I can rapidly return to the right settings.
If you learn once to use the HF, you will find it is a good buy and all you need for half-blind dovetails 12 inches or less wide. The half inch guide that comes with the HF doesn't impress with its finish but it works fine.
JimComment
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