Help In Buying A Good Straight Edge

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I am ready to step up to a good straight edge. In understand the machined v. stamped etc. I understand aluminum v. steel. I guess what I am trying to determine is the bang for the buck. I am thinking at least 36", possibly 48".
What do you guys recommend?

[cabinetman]

Jeffrey

Put your wallet away. I've always made mine. I would use either baltic birch or some hardwood plywood like oak or maple, in thicknesses of 1/2" to 3/4". You can cut or rout two straight edges on a piece. Mine varied from 4" wide to 8" wide. I always put mica on the long edges. I used them for everything including a straightedge for routing with a bearing to straightedging lumber on the table saw. You can use them for drawing straight lines or as a jig to screw to for machining procedures.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[Jeffrey Schronce]

So what do I measure the stick against to make sure I am .00000000003 or better? LOL!

I am really trying to dial in the tolerances of my equipment. I have used an aluminum straight edge in the past, stamped not milled. I can't see how the wooden sticks could be more accurate than what I currently have due to seasonal wood movement, etc. I understand wood variance in sheet goods, particularly baltic birch, is much less than solid lumber but surely there is still movement. How do I overcome that?

I am not trying to start a "how straight is straight" or "what is an acceptable tolerance" discussion, rather I am just trying to get everything set up as accurately as possible.

[kwgeorge]

As I am sure you are aware, the straighter the edge the more money it costs. Woodpeckers is starting to make some strait edges and they have one without a ruler that has pretty good specs. Now I don’t own one of these but if it is anything like the Triangles they sell then it is pretty good.

http://www.woodpeck.com/sse.html

Another thing you may consider is ebay. I have purchased a number of Starrett tools lately and have been paying pennies on the dollar for them. I just looked and did not see a strait edge though.

Just some thoughts..

Ken

[cabinetman]

I can only tell you that straight is straight. I can take two different straight edges and place them edge to edge, and there isn't enough gap to slide a piece of paper, or see light. You can make yourself crazy with trying for perfection. Plywood doesn't have that "seasonal" thing that everyone worries about. In fact, I can't remember ever discarding one because it "curved". I've even had them bow slightly and it didn't affect how straight it was. These get used all the time. They either get stored flat, or hung up by a hole centered near one end.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[Jeffrey Schronce]

As I am sure you are aware, the straighter the edge the more money it costs. Woodpeckers is starting to make some strait edges and they have one without a ruler that has pretty good specs. Now I don’t own one of these but if it is anything like the Triangles they sell then it is pretty good.

http://www.woodpeck.com/sse.html

Another thing you may consider is ebay. I have purchased a number of Starrett tools lately and have been paying pennies on the dollar for them. I just looked and did not see a strait edge though.

Just some thoughts..

Ken

Holy smokes! The Woodpecker straight edges are expensive! I was looking at the stuff from Lee Valley and thought it was expensive (though I really like their aluminum straight edge)!

I'll have to keep and eye on ebay. Been a while since I got something for pennies on the dollar on Ebay. Guess you can't go wrong with Starrett.

Thanks!
Jeff

[Jeffrey Schronce]

[QUOTE=cabinetman;223794]I can only tell you that straight is straight. I can take two different straight edges and place them edge to edge, and there isn't enough gap to slide a piece of paper, or see light. You can make yourself crazy with trying for perfection. Plywood doesn't have that "seasonal" thing that everyone worries about. In fact, I can't remember ever discarding one because it "curved". I've even had them bow slightly and it didn't affect how straight it was. These get used all the time. They either get stored flat, or hung up by a hole centered near one end.
[QUOTE]

I agree with you and I am probably making more out of it than I need to. I currently don't put a lot of effort into these matters and felt maybe I needed to do so.
My wood off the jointer can be glued up with absolutely no gap. I set it up with aluminum straight edge and decent Groz squares. My TS specs are probably not as good. I basically lined the fence up with the blade. The fence is also aligned with the miter slots, so I assume my slots are parallel to my blade. I definately need to check with dial indicator.
Maybe I will give making one a shot, at least until I run across a killer deal on one. What do you think of using MDF with counter laminate? MDF edges are supposedly straight off the shelf.

[wardprobst]

Hi Jeffery,
I have the Veritas 50" Aluminum Straightedge #05N63.05 and I really like it. I checked into drafting straightedges and others but this one does it for me. It helps me reduce the tolerances in the shop equipment- one less thing to worry about. I thought it was reasonable compared to drafting equipment I priced.
DP

[cabinetman]

Jeffrey

"Supposedly" is the word you used. First unplug the saw. With the blade in the full up position mark one tooth, and check it at the front to the slot, rotate it to the rear and check it to the slot. If there is any deviation, adjustment has to be made. Last, check the fence the same way to the blade having it about 12" from the blade.

You should be able to make a pass on the saw that is straight. Sometimes it's the operator. On feeding long stock through the TS, there is usually a change of hand position and a footstep or two to get it through. Evaluating your movements and handling of the stock may greatly improve the cut.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[JSCOOK]

Hey Jeff,

I'll second the Veritas from Lee valley ... the shop I had access to for a long time had one of the Aluminium ones and I'd have to say that it indeed was was very nice like Wardprobst has mentioned ... I suppose with Lee Valley being Canadian stores I'd assume you haven't seen one in person (I've got 5 stores within a 1hr driving radius) ... I don't think you'd be disappointed with one ...I'm hoping to actually get the 24" Steel Straight Edge (#05N62.01) for Christmas this year

Jonathan

[SARGE..g-47]

I have the 24" steel Veritas, Jeff. I almost purchased a Veritas 50" to use on longer machine tables but..... thinking about I I wondered just how straight the edge on a Stabila level was. A friend suggested I get the Empire "True Blue" as he claimed it was as straight as Stabila at a lower cost.

So.. I borrowed his and took it to Highland Woodworking where the "boys and girls" let me face it with a Veritas 50". I bought the Empore "True Blue" to use to determine cup on longer rough stock.. along with the fact that I wanted an accurate "level" also. Two birds with one stone.

BTW.. I used the same process at Highland on the Groz engineer squares at the much lower price. I took the Groz and compared them to Starrett which they also sell and keep under lock and key. I walked with the Groz as it was within .001 of the Starrett. :>)

Regards...

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Jeffrey
You should be able to make a pass on the saw that is straight. Sometimes it's the operator. On feeding long stock through the TS, there is usually a change of hand position and a footstep or two to get it through. Evaluating your movements and handling of the stock may greatly improve the cut.

You are absolutely correct on positioning, grip, etc. I find that I have a tendency to drift away from the fence. Board Buddies are in the mail (actually on the UPS truck)! LOL! I had made a decision to go with those to help keep large sheet goods against the fence.

This is probably going to drive you insain but my results are very good in my opinion. I may not need a straight edge at all. I guess I am guilty of reading so many folks going through all this indepth, technical measuring and I feel inferior! I just find it hard to believe that I have everything set up correctly using the techniques I used. However, my results are great so maybe I should give it a rest.

Sarge, I did the exact same thing with the Groz squares, except at WC instead of Highlands. I had read of others doing the same test and finding the Groz unacceptible. I found them to be as square as the Starrett to the unaided eye.

[oakchas]

Ya know, I bought a carpenter's square once. I'd been using it for a few years when I discovered that the long leg was curved!

Now, Before I'd buy one, I'd check it against a machined surface level. So, I guess what I'm saying is that, like someone else in this thread, I'd get a good machine faced level and consider it good and dual purpose.

Or, you could get 3 granite slabs, in the length you need and about 1/2 as wide, and rub them agianst one another with pumice to get them flat... and then some blue indicator dye and a piece of aluminum... and... Well on and on it goes.

When working with wood, If you're geting good glue ups off the jointer, and it sounds like you are... then you're close enough.

[cgallery]

Okay, this is gonna sound nuts, but I use wire under tension for my longer straight edges. Concave surfaces are easy. Convex surfaces will deflect the wire but you can shim on both sides to determine the degree of hump. You can either use a wooden stick to hold the wire, or get help from a family member.

The wire can be used as a conductor in a circuit that lights a bulb or sounds a buzzer when there is contact with a surface you're checking. So you can shim the wire with thin thermal paper on both sides (approx. .0015" thick) and then use a feeler gauge along the length for pretty fine testing.

Cheap, never goes out of tolerance, made to any length you like, and kinda fun.

[LCHIEN]

I kinda got a 6' level as my straight reference. It was on sale at Lowes for around $20 a while back...