Another Question re: thickness planer

[rcp612]

After all the responses to my original question I did more research. Shouldn't have done that I think.
All I can find says to run one face of a board over a jointer then put that face down and run through the planer. Can't you just keep flipping the board through the planer to get both faces clean and paralell? Do I need a 6"+ jointer first, before looking into a planer?
I thought by planing both faces then jointing one side on my router table I could rip the other side and be good to go. Am I wrong in my thought process? Wouldn't be the first time but, I usually don't find that out untill it's too late.

[gjat]

What you should do is find a planer's instruction book on-line and read.
But, yes, plane 1 side, flip, plane other. Smaller increments is better (unless you are a pro and need production). Jointing on a table saw or with a router is easy. You don't really need a jointer.
Planing will get the two large sides paralell and make jointing much more accurate.
What is it you want to build with the planed stock? That makes a big difference. I've built tons of stuff without a planer. It's nice, but not always required. Personally, I like the minor flaws that show I made it, not made in a factory machine that spits out 1,000 perfect pieces a minute. I don't take it as much of a compliment when people say 'That looks like it was made in a factory, you can't tell it was hand made'.

[LarryG]

The jointer and thickness planer work as a team, doing different jobs. A jointer will get the two opposing faces of a board flat, but not necessarily parallel. A thickness planer will get the two opposing two faces parallel, but not necessarily flat. This is because the rollers in a thickness planer will push the board down onto the table as it feeds through. If the board is not flat, the rollers will temporarily "flatten" it but as soon as it comes out the other side, it will spring back into its original curved shape. So if you send a board through and flip it back and forth on each pass, you will end up with a board of uniform thickness but if it wasn't flat before, it won't be any flatter after you're finished.

It's possible to build a sled on which to mount an un-flat board, shimmed up so it won't be deformed by the rollers, and send it through a thickness planer to flatten it. Reportedly this works reasonably well (I've never done it), but it's a little fussy and the results are only as good as the care you take in shimming the board on the sled.

[LCHIEN]

After all the responses to my original question I did more research. Shouldn't have done that I think.
All I can find says to run one face of a board over a jointer then put that face down and run through the planer. Can't you just keep flipping the board through the planer to get both faces clean and paralell? Do I need a 6"+ jointer first, before looking into a planer?

Larry's right- jointing makes flat, thickness planers make parallel,
you need a jointer and you need to make one face flat first.
That long, heavy, stiff bed on the jointer is what makes it able to flatten a board.

I thought by planing both faces then jointing one side on my router table I could rip the other side and be good to go. Am I wrong in my thought process? Wouldn't be the first time but, I usually don't find that out untill it's too late.

The terms are, your wood has 2 faces and 2 edges. It has four sides.
Anyway, you flatten (joint) and paralleize (thickness planer) the two faces, then you joint one edge
and use the TS to make the other edge parallel to the first.

[Knottscott]

Larry's response is comprehensive and I agree with him. It's surely possible to get by without having either tool, but nothing else is more efficient and effective at the task of getting the stock flat and square to ensure nice fitting joints.

I'd start with planer if I couldn't have both a planer and a jointer, and would hope to obtain a jointer later on. They sure make life easier in the shop!

[Andrew Benedetto]

The jointer-planer is one of my best tools, Ridgid jp610, and yes jointing can be done other ways, but with one side not straight the jointer is the way to go if you want fast and easy. I also think you can use much less expensive lumber and make the size you need. Larry is right,if the board is not flat, a thickness planer will not do what a jointer-planer. The sled is hit or miss.
I think both tools are good to have for different reasons..

[jseklund]

Just to put in another vote for everything said here- jointer/planer are a team. I've seen some mention of building sled/jigs for using the planer to flatten one side of the board, but never tried it. This is a band-aid if it does work, will probably cause a lot of undo frustration if you ask me, and will only carry you so far.

Now, I didn't start this too long ago (sometimes I feel like I haven't even started yet!) and I remember how I felt when I found out that I needed a jointer. I had already bought the planer because I got a great deal on the BT3100 and AP1300 (old version) planer at HD. Then I find out I need the jointer and I feel like I can't afford it. What I did is started scanning craigslist for a used one. For the first two-three week there was NOTHING reasonable even within 100 miles of me. I was getting disappointed and then it happened. I saw a listing 10 miles from me for an older craftsman for $100. That was my budget. I picked it up right away. It's not in the best shape, but it gets the job done. After I bought it, wouldn't you know that about 10 of them popped up on craigslist within the next 2 weeks. Some of those deals were better than what I got- but I was glad I got one that works for my budget.

My point is, if you are in the situation I was in (you may not be)- search craigslist and be patient. When you start to think, "Jointers never seem to pop up." just remember to be patient. Eventually there'll be 50 of them listed . My only wish is that I had realized there would be better deals if I waited another week- but I'm glad I didn't wait forever and am happy with the purchase.

[Andrew Benedetto]

That is b/c you want a 8" or larger after you have the 6".