Speed tensioning for the BS

[ironhat]

I've seen the levers which replace the knob on the tensioning screw and thought that I've seen such a device elsewhere. You know, like elswhere cheaper... don't have to pay shipping (buy local). I can think of how I would fashion my own. So, if I want to fashion one out of flat stock what thickness do you folks think would be sufficient without need for a torch to fascilitate bending?
TIA,
Chiz

[jackellis]

I just purchased the Quick-Crank tensioner from Highland Woodworking for my Ridgid BS1400. It's probably overpriced at $30 but it's not worth my time to track down the right sized rod with Acme threads.

I should have it installed by next weekend and can tell you whether it was worth doing then.

[Ken Massingale]

This what you're looking for Chiz?

http://www.mv.com/users/besposito/wo.../quickrelease/

[JTimmons]

This what you're looking for Chiz?

http://www.mv.com/users/besposito/wo.../quickrelease/

That's pretty cool, guess what I'll be doing this afternoon.

[ironhat]

No Ken, it isn't... it's *better* !! Satisfies all criteria - no shipping and does the job more quickly. Also, thanks for the HH reference, Jack.
Later,
Chiz

[Andrew Benedetto]

I may try that but use 2 sections of iron pipe w. a coupling or larger dia. pipe to slide over and remove during use and so I can have the arm shorter for storage. It should pivot on the end w. a cap and use a machine screw to hold the stop block or even better use a bolt as a stop placed 90* to the arm, all metal that way. Could drill a counter sink in the area to have the stop bolt rest into for more secure hold.

[ironhat]

I understand your description of the the iron pipe and coupler to allow shortening, Andrew, but what are you planning on to keep the threads on the tensioning rod from getting buggered? Also, how are you planning to keep the end of the pipe that contacts the top of the casting from gouging it up?
Later,
Chiz

[LCHIEN]

Woodsmith Vol 27 No.161 page 4 has a shop-made DIY bandsaw tensioner
made from wood and ordinary hardware. A reader-submitted tip, simple one-page article.

I have a scan of the whole page if anyone needs it.

[Ken Massingale]

Same gut Loring. Bill-E on WN came up with it and submitted it to Woodsmith.
k

[Andrew Benedetto]

I understand your description of the the iron pipe and coupler to allow shortening, Andrew, but what are you planning on to keep the threads on the tensioning rod from getting buggered? Also, how are you planning to keep the end of the pipe that contacts the top of the casting from gouging it up?
Later,
Chiz

The threads are at the square nut that matter are on the saw at the base of the spring. The rod is locked by 2 nuts to the pipe. The support arm is CI on my saw, I could use a brass cap on the end, but galvanized is usu. softter than CI. and it is just a pivot point anyway. I was looking at Bill's at woodnet forum.

[ironhat]

Thanks fore the info, Andrew!

[Andrew Benedetto]

Glad to help. I actually have not do this yet but it seems simple enough. I will post when I do.

[jackellis]

I just installed the Quick-Crank tensioner on my Ridgid bandsaw and it works like a charm. Takes just seconds to tension or remove tension. Really didn't have much choice about some form of replacement as the original tensioning rod and nut were badly stripped when I finally removed them.