flushing up through dovetails....

[drumpriest]

Chime in if you will and reveal your preferred method for flushing dovetails joints. These have come to mind....

Spiral flush trim bit on router table.

#80 cabinet scraper.

Low angle block plane.

Belt sander.

thanks,

[LCHIEN]

if this was a poll I'd vote for the spiral flush trim router bit although
I think a regular flush trim would work just as well and probably cost half as much or less - the advantage of the spiral is lost since you are not really removing a lot of material that clogs up a groove nor needin the shearing action to get a clean edge.

I usually have used a 1/2" dia flush trim carbide bit.

[Tom Hintz]

I think the biggest thing that has helped my through dovetails, in particular flushing them to the surface is trusting in the jig and cutting them close to the right length in the first place. I use the Leigh (D4) and split the pencil line as per the instructions (they really do know what they are talking about....) and seldom wind up with more than 1/32" to remove. Then, I use my ROS with 120-grit paper, being sure to stay flush on the side so I don't curve the corner of the box or whatever I am building. It goes fast and comes out nice and square.

[kwgeorge]

Although I agree to not making them very proud when using the jig in the first place I would still rather have them stick out than be to short. For me it is a low angle, very sharp block plane used at a skewed angle every time. In very short order I can have them all flush and crisp and the low angle block plane is much more suited for this end grain task.

Ken

[ChrisD]

Keith,

I have only cut HBDTs, but always left the pins a little proud of the tail board so I had some stock to pound into gaps (I hand-cut them, so they're never perfect).

Like Ken, I use a block plane to flush up the pins. I only have a standard-angle one, though, so I compensate by making sure the iron is scary-sharp.

[SARGE..g-47]

Low angle block plane.. a sharp un.... :>)

Regards...