Building a Jointer and maybe a planer

[theminor]

I've been spending a lot of money on my shop lately. I just bought a 14" band saw and a new dust collector blower. So I really don't want to spend the $400+ on a jointer and a planer, but I will be starting a dining room table and that will certainly require nice, smooth joined boards.

I wonder how difficult it would be to make a jointer? I've done some searching on the forum and found links to use the table saw (I have a bt3100, so it will certainly be precise I'm sure), using a router, and building your own. There would probably be no need to buy the plan to build my own, I could probably make a better one with longer tables if I worked on it long enough. it might be a fun project.

Does anyone have any experience doing this? I've never used a jointer (I'm quite green, but I’m loving woodworking), but it seems like a pretty simple machine. I've seen a lot of posts online on the debate as to whether or not a jointer is a required tool in the shop. In either case, it would certainly be nice to have, and possibly necessary for some projects I think. Any other solutions would be welcome!

As to the planer, I wonder if I'll have to buy one? There are a few lumber yards nearby so buying rough lumber might be a big advantage (so far I've been buying finished boards from BORG). If I continue to buy finished boards will the thickness planer be necessary (are the edges of finished boards parallel enough if I just run them through a jointer)? Does anyone have any "homemade" solutions for thickness planers? Why can’t I just set the rip fence on the bt3100 to a given thickness and use this to make parallel edges? Would the tablesaw not create a parallel edge this way?

Thanks for any responses and please forgive the simplicity of my questions!

[Tom Miller]

For edge joining with a router, you can do an even better job with a simpler setup. Get a melamine shelf board (which has a perfect factory-finished edge), and a couple of c-clamps. Clamp your workpiece to the shelf board, with just a 1/16" or so hanging over. Then, using a flush-trim bit, joint your board.

The reason I say this is better, is because the shelf board is (probably) much longer than your router fence, which equates to a straighter edge.

Regards,
Tom

[MBG]

I have a jointer and planer but mostly bought them because I started to work with rough sawn lumber. Before I had them I always relied on the BT. If you get yourself a decent blade. They even make blades with I think they call it a raker tooth that leaves a planed looking surface on your board. I have done numerous door panel edge-joined glue ups w/o jointing the edges. As a matter of fact sometimes, depending on the grain of the wood I have found it is possible to deteriorate the surface with the jointer at the ends due to tear-out.

[Russianwolf]

For edge joining with a router, you can do an even better job with a simpler setup. Get a melamine shelf board (which has a perfect factory-finished edge), and a couple of c-clamps. Clamp your workpiece to the shelf board, with just a 1/16" or so hanging over. Then, using a flush-trim bit, joint your board.

The reason I say this is better, is because the shelf board is (probably) much longer than your router fence, which equates to a straighter edge.

Regards,
Tom

one problem. try doing it on 8/4 stock.

Best bet if you want to skip the jointer is a tablesaw jig.

But, I will also piont out that the plane/jointer combo can save you big bucks in the long run. The cost saving on the wood (rough versus premilled) is enough usually to pay for the two tools within a couple projects. Say 300bf which is maybe 4 bookcases.

Of coarse you can always fall back to the way they did it before electricity. Hand Planes.

[theminor]

Great advice - thanks! But what about if I continue to buy finished boards (at least for now). Will the thickness planer be necessary to make the edges parallel or to finished boards come with parallel edges?

So, assuming I get one edge of a board straight (with a jointer or router or something) somehow, is it just as effective as using a planer to use the bt3100 to trim the other side to width using a rip fence, and thus making it parallel? So if I wanted to end up with a 6" wide board, would ripping it with the table saw not create a parallel, perfect edge 6" from the other side?

Thanks again for the help. Any other solutions are most welcome!

[JR]

So, assuming I get one edge of a board straight ...

then you'll be fine using the BT cut the other edge, if you're careful running it through. In fact, you'll probably be able to use the stuff right off the shelf from HD without edge jointing. I'd run both edges trhough the tablesaw, though, to be sure they're parallel. You can glue up the finished boards witout trouble. I've done it. So, a jointer is not mandatory when purchasing S4S material.

OTH - if you need 1/2" thick material and all you've got is 3/4" stock, a planer is very handy. You'd not want to run the boards on edge through a tablesaw, because you'e surely get some saw marks requiring much hand plaining or sanding.

JR

[drumpriest]

I have on several occasions used a straight edge and a router with a pattern bit to edge joint larger boards. I use a HD MDF shelf, 12"x8', which cost 5$. The down side to this is that you can't face joint efficiently with a router. There are setups to be able to do it, but it's going to take BIG time. I took my time in selecting stock that was nice and flat, surfaced oversize on the 2 faces. Then after glue-up, I rent time on a time saver to flatten my larger glue-ups. Tables, Desk tops, etc...

[Tom Miller]

So, assuming I get one edge of a board straight (with a jointer or router or something) somehow, is it just as effective as using a planer to use the bt3100 to trim the other side to width using a rip fence, and thus making it parallel?

Once you have a good edge, it's actually standard procedure to rip to width on the table saw. Furthermore, it would be ill-advised to run a 6" wide, nominally 3/4" thick board through a planer on edge (if that was in fact what you were proposing).

Whether or not that just-ripped edge is good enough for glue-up depends on the blade, your table saw setup, etc. But many can, and do, get good enough edges this way. Otherwise, you can use your router, or other setup, to clean up this edge, too.

Another technique for using the table saw to joint the first edge, is to use a carrier board. This is a board (jig) that has a good, straight edge that rides against the fence, and some way of affixing the workpiece, which hangs over the other edge. This overhanging edge is cut off as the whole thing is passed along the rip fence, leaving a jointed edge.

Regards,
Tom

[Russianwolf]

Great advice - thanks! But what about if I continue to buy finished boards (at least for now). Will the thickness planer be necessary to make the edges parallel or to finished boards come with parallel edges?

So, assuming I get one edge of a board straight (with a jointer or router or something) somehow, is it just as effective as using a planer to use the bt3100 to trim the other side to width using a rip fence, and thus making it parallel? So if I wanted to end up with a 6" wide board, would ripping it with the table saw not create a parallel, perfect edge 6" from the other side?

Thanks again for the help. Any other solutions are most welcome!

yes and no. Yes they are usually parallel. BUT they may not be of a uniform thickness (off by a couple 32nds) and as many of us have experienced with planers, parallel doesn't mean flat. The board can bow and twist after the initial planing. If you take your time in selecting, you might find enough nice "pretty flat" boards at the store.

This is the jig for edge jointing on the table saw. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3203
but you can make something similar that will work with minimal effort.

[jackellis]

I don't know where you live but a worthwhile alternative to new tools is something in good condition that's used. I've bought several tools that way and generally have no regrets. My jointer was a brand new Delta that the previous owner had partially assembled - purchased for half price. Same for a scroll saw, belt/disc sander, K-body clamps, hand planes. It takes some patience and you will no doubt run down a few dead ends but it can be a lot cheaper than buying new and probably at least as good as a home-built rig.

[asdf]

If you're buying rough sawn lumber, you need at least a planer. When I built my dining room table (about 3' x 8') I used a Dewalt 734 planer and a router for jointing (didn't have my jointer then).

I built a sled to run the board through the planer and get a flat face. Then I flipped it over and ran it through again to get a parallel face. Next up I did something similar to what the others suggested and used a flush trim bit with my router, and ran it against a known straight edge. I did the other edge the same way, just making sure the jig was set up accurately (it's tough to run 8' + boards through the tablesaw perfectly without a substantail in/out feed setup or a second set of hands).

[LCHIEN]

The big deal about a jointer is the length and flatness of the tables.
If you can't duplicate that them all your router jigs and stuff won't produce straight edges like the jointer.

As for the planer, you need the wide, flat smooth feed with the controlled thickness, otherwise it won't do its job.

I don't really think there are any easy shortcuts to replacing these tools completely.
I think one idea mentioned is being patient and watching for used equipment for sale.
There are any number of good brands of these tools.

[asdf]

That being said, IF you do it right, take your time, and are smart about it, you can do it with only a planer and a router being the main tools. Make sure you have a least a ROS as well. It will take a lot more time too.

The big deal about a jointer is the length and flatness of the tables.
If you can't duplicate that them all your router jigs and stuff won't produce straight edges like the jointer.

As for the planer, you need the wide, flat smooth feed with the controlled thickness, otherwise it won't do its job.

I don't really think there are any easy shortcuts to replacing these tools completely.
I think one idea mentioned is being patient and watching for used equipment for sale.
There are any number of good brands of these tools.

[theminor]

Thanks for all the replies! I think right now I'll take my time and keep my eyes out for a good deal on a planer and a jointer. If I can find a good deal - used or new - I'll go for it. Until then, if I have a need, I can use my router table/table saw.

I live in the Chattanooga area, so if anyone knows of anything, please let me know! Thanks again!