To Biscuit Join Or Not to Biscuit Join

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Jeffrey, am i new to WW? hooboy, No! i have been doing this all of this year! well, seeing that this time last year i did not know a rip-cut from a cross-cut, i guess you could call me a novice WW and still make me proud!

That said, i have got the guidance of an excellent teacher at my local community school, and have managed a couple of simple tables, stools etc (and Norm's adirondack chair) and did manage a couple of passable M&T joints along the way. Now i want something challenging, so this. And i am guessing worst case would be that i would be re-doing a couple of the pieces, and am ok with that.

But you have touched upon the one puzzle i myself had - wouldn't it be stronger to use thicker stock for the feet? But maybe this (miter-jointed) would look nicer?

The plan calls for placing the plywood on this base and just gluing it. Again- is that strong enough...?

When you say you like this design, is that aesthetically, or for its strength, or - what?

That's great that you have a local teacher and it sounds like you have some experience under your belt.

I think that M&T with 8/4 feet would be the strongest joint you could make for this project. Additionally, since you have a little experience in M&T, I think it could possibly be quicker than the miter joints with PHJ or BJ.

If the plywood base sits on the frame, then yes glue will hold it in place.

I like the overall plan, aesthetically. It's a great looking entertainment center for mid-size LCDs & plasmas or regular TV's.

[Jim Boyd]

In Woods most recent mag they tested dirrerent joinging methods. M&T ranked highest the dowels, pocket screws, and lowest in strength was biscuts. On this project if I didn't feel comfortable with MT joints I would simply miter the corners and glue and use glue blocks on the backside and add a screw or 2 in the glue blocks.

[MBG]

Did you use pocket screws on the joint first, then add the ply? Btw, that ply idea is great - adds strength, and surface to screw the cabinet. And yes, the base proud of the cabinet gives it a classy look, methinks. I first pocket-screwed the streatchers to the corner pieces. Then I glued the mitered corners and used a band clamp to attach the four base pieces together (I did use my new pin nailer to hold the assembly in place). After this dried I accurately cut one large piece of ply to fit in the middle and used pocket screws to attach it to the base. This is a very strong/robust structure - stronger than if you used biscuits alone (actually, since I got my Kreg jig I almost never use my plate jointer).

One thing to remember (I sometimes forget) when using pocket screw construction, think ahead how you are going to assembly your project. Some pocket hole can't be added later or they are put in locations that you can't get at - DAMHIKT.

Did you add narrow strips of ply between the base sides at front and back , or one wide piece all over? One big piece.

I could use pocket screws on the inside of the rail-styles - not visible once assembled. Of course, visible, contrasting colored plugins would be nice too. Yes, you could use them on the inside, but, I might plug them since they ma be visible when the door is open.

The plan seems to be simplified for beginners like me - most of the panels are plywood, minimizing edge joints. That is how most flat panel doors are constructed today.

I highly appreciate the time and effort you and jeffrey and the others spend in reading and responding to this. Adds oodles of confidence even before i begin, and assurance that i could always come back and ask for doubts on the way. No problem, you are learning the same way we did and still are.
Thanks a ton!

See comments above.