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You can do 2 5/8 crown upside down and backwards on a 10 inch CMS as I did in our basement. I have an old "Pro-Tech" that works fine. Less than $100. I would like to have one of the 12 inch Delta double bevel saws but they are about $400 which I have not justified yet. The double bevel saws get the motor out of the way so you can do taller mouldings agains the fence on the motor side. The Delta 12 inch will do about a 9 inch cross cut - about 2 inches more than most.
I also did 3 5/8 crown on my little Pro-Tech but I could only cut on the left side of the saw. I only did a little toilet area in our bathroom (the only part of our MBR that the builder left plain) and could get by with coping only one corner of each piece. Wouldn't be practical on a more complex room IMHO. You could cut it on the flat but I have mastered the angles cutting that way.
When putting up crown, I find two things really help. first, I make a L-shaped piece to mark the points on the ceiling and wall where the edges of the crown should be when installed. I go around the room with a stud detector and put marks at each stud location for nailing. It takes awhile but really speeds things up later. I have not had good success putting up crown without the marks. The other tip I offer is to use a piece of scrap about 2 to 3 feet long to test each corner before cutting the "real" piece. I make small adjustments of the angle until the scrap fits well and then cut the real piece. It isn't necessary for paint grade work if you mark the positions of the moulding on the wall but it minimizes the caulking and I feel better knowing the joints fit.
Jim
I also did 3 5/8 crown on my little Pro-Tech but I could only cut on the left side of the saw. I only did a little toilet area in our bathroom (the only part of our MBR that the builder left plain) and could get by with coping only one corner of each piece. Wouldn't be practical on a more complex room IMHO. You could cut it on the flat but I have mastered the angles cutting that way.
When putting up crown, I find two things really help. first, I make a L-shaped piece to mark the points on the ceiling and wall where the edges of the crown should be when installed. I go around the room with a stud detector and put marks at each stud location for nailing. It takes awhile but really speeds things up later. I have not had good success putting up crown without the marks. The other tip I offer is to use a piece of scrap about 2 to 3 feet long to test each corner before cutting the "real" piece. I make small adjustments of the angle until the scrap fits well and then cut the real piece. It isn't necessary for paint grade work if you mark the positions of the moulding on the wall but it minimizes the caulking and I feel better knowing the joints fit.
Jim
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