Sears Craftsman 21829 router question

[JohnnyLisa]

Hello, all -
I've taken the plunge and purchased a Craftsman 21829 table saw. I had experience with my dad's Ryobi BT3000 and am very impressed with it. I was interested in purchasing a BT3100, but they were sold out in my area.

My question is in reference to the router mounting on the accessory table. The table has multiple predrilled holes for Craftsman routers. I have a DeWalt DW610 router that I would like to mount to the table, but the holes don't match. Can anyone suggest a means of safely mounting this router to the accessory table?

Also, if anyone has not yet answered the question regarding the miter slots in the accessory table, the manual states clearly that the miter gauge is intended for cutting, not routing:

"The miter gauge provides greater accuracy in angled cuts. For very close tolerances, test cuts are recommended.

There are two miter gauge channels, one on either side of the blade. When making a 90 degree cross cut, you can use either miter gauge channel. When making a beveled cross cut (the blade tilted in relation to the table) the miter gauge should be located in the slot on the right so that the blade is tilted away from the miter gauge and your hands."

John

[LCHIEN]

Hello, all -
I've taken the plunge and purchased a Craftsman 21829 table saw. I had experience with my dad's Ryobi BT3000 and am very impressed with it. I was interested in purchasing a BT3100, but they were sold out in my area.

My question is in reference to the router mounting on the accessory table. The table has multiple predrilled holes for Craftsman routers. I have a DeWalt DW610 router that I would like to mount to the table, but the holes don't match. Can anyone suggest a means of safely mounting this router to the accessory table?

Also, if anyone has not yet answered the question regarding the miter slots in the accessory table, the manual states clearly that the miter gauge is intended for cutting, not routing:

"The miter gauge provides greater accuracy in angled cuts. For very close tolerances, test cuts are recommended.

There are two miter gauge channels, one on either side of the blade. When making a 90 degree cross cut, you can use either miter gauge channel. When making a beveled cross cut (the blade tilted in relation to the table) the miter gauge should be located in the slot on the right so that the blade is tilted away from the miter gauge and your hands."

John

well, I have answers and more questions.

Q: On the BT3100/3000 the auxilary table has no way to align it; its only locked to the front rail normally and even requires a special clamp to lock down to the back rail. I'd not consider it a solidly anchored piece suitable for using a mire slot if it had one. Now you're telling us that they recommend it for miter cuts with the saw blade. Is the auxilary/router table ancored more solidly to the rails front and back? Is there a means to set and maintain alignment of the slot to the blade when the table is repositioned?


Now my answer to your question:
On the BT3100/3000 there is a plate that attaches to the router with its predrilled holes, and the plate attaches to the auxilary table with another set of holes. In the 21829 there is no plate, but the mounting holes for the router are directly in the table.
In the BT3x you can mount virtually any router by drilling the solft aluminum plate wit the mounting holes from your router, the easiset way being to use the router's plastic removable baseplate as a template. I'm sure you can drill the aluminum auxilary table in the 21829 the same way using the plastic baseplate from your router and countersinking from the top for some flat head screws of the correct size and thread.

Aluminum drills easily, it is suggested you use a sharp bit. Use a centerpunch to make a dimple where the hole center should be to prevent walking. you migh start with a smaller bit and work you way up. the aluminum should come off in fine ribbons as you drill, not little chips (sign of dull bit). Be careful the bit will grab when it exits the aluminum. For that reason it is best to use a drill press rather than a handheld drill, if you have one.

[Russianwolf]

Aluminum drills easily, it is suggested you use a sharp bit. Use a centerpunch to make a dimple where the hole center should be to prevent walking. you migh start with a smaller bit and work you way up. the aluminum should come off in fine ribbons as you drill, not little chips (sign of dull bit). Be careful the bit will grab when it exits the aluminum. For that reason it is best to use a drill press rather than a handheld drill, if you have one.

Another tip, Go buy a cheap chamfer bit for your router. You can use this to put the correct taper on the holes in the tabletop. Just chuck it in your drill press and it'll do the job. I did this when making a top to mount my router to.

[JR]

Is the auxilary/router table ancored more solidly to the rails front and back? Is there a means to set and maintain alignment of the slot to the blade when the table is repositioned?

I took a pretty good look at a display model with an attached manual.

No, there was nothing special about the aux. table attachment. Pretty much just like the BT3X.

No, there did not appear to be a way to align the aux. table. The manual made no mention of such an alignement.

JR

[dkerfoot]

Hello, all -
"The miter gauge provides greater accuracy in angled cuts. For very close tolerances, test cuts are recommended.

There are two miter gauge channels, one on either side of the blade. When making a 90 degree cross cut, you can use either miter gauge channel. When making a beveled cross cut (the blade tilted in relation to the table) the miter gauge should be located in the slot on the right so that the blade is tilted away from the miter gauge and your hands."
John

I just bought the 21829 also and saw this same description. I was thinking the same as you, it SAYS it is used for precision cuts... But then it goes on and says "There are two miter gauge channels, one on either side of the blade" Huh???

I am thinking that it may be erroneously referring to the router bit as a blade, or possibly thinking of having a jig-saw mounted under the table.

Still, it isn't totally useless for ripping - I just used it with my miter channel mounted featherboard. I imagine there are other jigs that it could be useful for as well.

[dkerfoot]

In the BT3x you can mount virtually any router by drilling the solft aluminum plate wit the mounting holes from your router, the easiset way being to use the router's plastic removable baseplate as a template. I'm sure you can drill the aluminum auxilary table in the 21829 the same way using the plastic baseplate from your router and countersinking from the top for some flat head screws of the correct size and thread.

Is the bottom of the aux table for the BT3x flat? The 21829 has... Hmmm... Don't know what to call them... Round "thingies" that extend about 1/2" out from the bottom of the plate for each of the pre-drilled mounting holes. They would make it pretty hard to drill holes and mount a base, at least for my PC router.

The only way I can see to make it work would be to make a seperate mounting base that you first mount the router to and then mount to the pre-existing holes on the bottom of the aux table.

Does anyone know if there is an existing kit for doing so?

[LCHIEN]

Is the bottom of the aux table for the BT3x flat? The 21829 has... Hmmm... Don't know what to call them... Round "thingies" that extend about 1/2" out from the bottom of the plate for each of the pre-drilled mounting holes. They would make it pretty hard to drill holes and mount a base, at least for my PC router.

The only way I can see to make it work would be to make a seperate mounting base that you first mount the router to and then mount to the pre-existing holes on the bottom of the aux table.

Does anyone know if there is an existing kit for doing so?

The thingies are officially called "Bosses" or maybe slang is "T*ts."
The BT3x aux table is sort of ribbed except for the area where the mounting plate goes which is flat, the top of the aux table has countersunk holes for the FH screws which screw into the mounting plate to hold the plate. The top of the plate has countersunk screw holes for the screws to attach the router to the mtg. plate.

[LCHIEN]

Another tip, Go buy a cheap chamfer bit for your router. You can use this to put the correct taper on the holes in the tabletop. Just chuck it in your drill press and it'll do the job. I did this when making a top to mount my router to.

Rather than use a 20,000 RPM router bit to countersink a hole
I prefer to use a standard countersink bit to do the job. They're readily available in several forms with 1 to 5 flutes and some have wormholes. It's designed for drill press use and speeds and has the correct 82 degree angle. I don't recall seeing any chamfer router bits with 82 degree angles.

There are two countersink bit angles in common use, 82 and 90. The flat head screws generally have 82 degrees. A HSS countersink bit can generally be had for $5-10 at Lowes or HD.

I don't think you can find router bits with chamfers other than 45° (which is equivalent to a 90° countersink)

[Russianwolf]

the other option of course is to buy a Ryobi or Craftsman router to mount to the plate and keep your PC for handheld use.

[Russianwolf]

Rather than use a 20,000 RPM router bit to countersink a hole
I prefer to use a standard countersink bit to do the job. They're readily available in several forms with 1 to 5 flutes and some have wormholes. It's designed for drill press use and speeds and has the correct 82 degree angle. I don't recall seeing any chamfer router bits with 82 degree angles.

There are two countersink bit angles in common use, 82 and 90. The flat head screws generally have 82 degrees. A HSS countersink bit can generally be had for $5-10 at Lowes or HD.

I don't think you can find router bits with chamfers other than 45° (which is equivalent to a 90° countersink)

well, I'm not sure what the taper was on the screws that came with my table, but the 45 degree chamfer worked, and I had a cheap one lying around. To be honest I used my hand drill and it came out fine. (shrug)

[dkerfoot]

the other option of course is to buy a Ryobi or Craftsman router to mount to the plate and keep your PC for handheld use.

Yeah - only problem is, I bought the PC 693LRPK (1 3/4 HP with a fixed and a plunge base) set, thinking that when I eventually needed more HP, I'd get a bigger router to leave mounted under my seperate (real) router table.

Then I would leave the fixed PC base mounted under my Aux table for secondary operations and still have the plunge base for handy for most hand-held routing.

In other words, the only other router I want to buy is great big hombre for raising panels, etc...

I think I am going to look at building a mounting plate to go between the Aux table and my PC router.

[cbrown]

I just bought the 21829 also and saw this same description. I was thinking the same as you, it SAYS it is used for precision cuts... But then it goes on and says "There are two miter gauge channels, one on either side of the blade" Huh???

I am thinking that it may be erroneously referring to the router bit as a blade, or possibly thinking of having a jig-saw mounted under the table.

Still, it isn't totally useless for ripping - I just used it with my miter channel mounted featherboard. I imagine there are other jigs that it could be useful for as well.

It sure sounds as if some boilerplate from a manual for a "standard" table saw (with a miter slot on either side of the blade) got copied over into the 21829 manual where it doesn't apply. Usually the Craftsman manuals are identical to the OEM manual with the branding removed, but the 21829 is different enough from any Ryobi-branded model that Sears or Ryobi must have had to generate a new one. Is the 21829 manual available online anywhere?

[LCHIEN]

well, I'm not sure what the taper was on the screws that came with my table, but the 45 degree chamfer worked, and I had a cheap one lying around. To be honest I used my hand drill and it came out fine. (shrug)

while they appear to work and fit fine the use of 82° FH screws in 90° chamfered holes leads to carrying all the force on a very small ring instead of spreading the force all over the underside of the head of the screw as is intended.

This can lead to wallowing out of the hole (Worst in soft alumninum and wood), loosening of the screw as all the weight bears on the small surface area that is actually in contact.

[JohnnyLisa]

Miter slots and gauge

Of course only time will tell how the accessory table works in the long run, but for what it's worth, I just made several cuts with both the SMT and with the miter gauge/accessory table mounted on either side of the blade. I checked the cuts with a combination square and all appeared to my novice eye to be dead on.

I also wondered about the "two miter gauge channels, one on either side of the blade." I assumed they meant the table can be mounted to either side of the blade, and the miter gauge can be used in the appropriate channel.

The miter gauge, by the way, is a nice addition to the saw package - better than my old table saw's gauge. I like the adjustable stops at 90 and 45 degrees, and the provision for using a stock hold down clamp.