Jointer questions

[softop41]

I'm ready to add a jointer to my equipment iinventory. I am considering either the Ridgid and the Griz G0452. I notice that the Ridgid uses a handwheel to adjust the infeed table while the Griz, as well as several others, use a lever. I can see that there is a theoretical difference in how well you can position the table with the wheel comparef to the lever; does that theoretical differnece translate into any real world difference?
TIA for the help.
Jerry

[SARGE..g-47]

[I]I can see that there is a theoretical difference in how well you can position the table with the wheel comparef to the lever; does that theoretical differnece translate into any real world difference? ..... Jerry

One upon a time in a land far away I went through sniper school. I learned you could place rounds on a target with a standard M-14. I also learned you could get a much tighter shot-group using a "match-grade" M-14. Among other things, it had exactly twice the amount of adjustment clicks up-down and side-to-side as the standard issue, refining your accuracy.

I see the lever vs wheel in the same view. A "tad or a "tad and 1/2" is the question? You can get close with the lever, but if you want that extra accuracy of adjustment required to make two edge joints "kiss" with an almost invisible line.. make mine a wheel.

Regards...

[Bruce Cohen]

Jerry,

I can't comment about the "wheel vs, lever" question, but I've had the Rigid (all gray model) for a few years now. Once you get all the settings as accurate as you can, I use a Lee Valley 50" straight edge, a dial gage and feeler gages, plus a Starrett square nand a magnetic blade setter (I'm a bit fussy), the jointer works great on everything I've put thru it. And that amounts to Poplar to Ebony and Rosewood.

For the price, I think it's great. Although, if I had the money, I'd get an 8" with a rotary cutter head. But then my wife would really kill me.

Bruce

[Jim Boyd]

I have a Delta lever type jointer. I have set the depth of cut maybe twice since I got it in 2001. All that a jointer is designed to do is make a board flat or an edge square to the the face. IMHO, lever or wheel adjustment would not be a factor in a buying decision. Ease of the fence adjustment and blade changing would be my key points.

[Pappy]

The only time you are going to change the table height after the jointer is set up will be to move the infeed table to change the depth of cut. Wheels are more precise but the levers will work. I think most of the Grizzly jointers are offered in both versions.

[Tom Hintz]

I also have a Delta with the lever adjustment and hardly ever use it. I set my infeed table to take about 1/32" and that's it. I haven't needed to take deeper cuts since.
Also, the accurachy of the joint is nearly totally dependent on how the knives are aligned with the outfeed table and if the tables are aligned (coplaner). If everything is aligned as it should be, the depth of cut does nothing but regulate how much wood is removed per-pass. As with most things, less is better as you can control the wood easier and that makes the results better/more accurate.

[Ken Weaver]

I have the Ridgid and like the others, haven't changed the depth of cut since I did the initial set up. It may depend on how you envision using it, i.e. if you think you'll be taking different depths of cut then the wheel may be more attractive. From what I've read the wheel is preferred, but it may not be that critical for you.

[Luckbox]

I have just purchased the grizzley G0452 and will be taking delivery of it on Tuesday Aug 22. I chose it over the Rigid based on price, I liked the enclosed stand, and the fact it came mobile. Since I work in my garage and I need to be able to still park cars in the garage mobility is a major deciding factor for me.

[LCHIEN]

I've got the Delta with the lever, it seems to be able to be easily set as well as I need it to.

[rickd]

I've had the Ridgid Jointer for a couple of years now and really like it. Like Pappy said, once the Jointer is setup I don't often have to change anything. I like the wheel but I think a lever would work fine too.

[davidtu]

Surprised that so many aren't changing depth of cut... curious... what depth do you have it set at?

[JR]

Surprised that so many aren't changing depth of cut... curious... what depth do you have it set at?

Mine's at about 1/32", the same as someone else posted in this thread.

I suppose in theory it would make sense to change table height, for making rabbets and so on. But as hard as it was to get my HF jointer set up, I ain't changin' nuttin'!

Really, a jointer is good for making a flat face square to another flat face. A few passes at 1/32" is all it takes, usually. If you want to make a rabbet, go to the table saw, IMO.

JR

[jnesmith]

Surprised that so many aren't changing depth of cut... curious... what depth do you have it set at?

I couldn't tell ya. All I know is it's a very, very light cut. Hardly registers on the little scale on my Ridgid. I "set it and forget it". I could probably get away with a more agressive cut, and same a little time. However, most of my projects are small. I can afford the few extra passes required by my setting.

[Ken Weaver]

Like John I set my Ridgid just enough to get a light cut. I'd rather sneak up on things and I don't mind taking the extra passes - when I'm in the shop I have plenty of time.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Ditto, set at 1/32 unless we are talking very rough or bowed, twisted then I get into 1/16. Not that big of a deal on a 3HP unit to take 1/16, esp w/ 4 cutterheads.
The Shop Fox 1713 has lever adjustments, however it has a parallelogram table system instead of dovetail way, so adjustment is incredibly easy. If I had a lower HP machine or had one that was difficult to adjust I would be happy just leaving it at 1/32.