Delta 6" jointer model JT360... any good?

[davidtu]

Oops... the model is 37-190!!

JT360 & 37-190 look the same & I've seen a post here saying the 37-190 is the same unit, older model number.

Can't tell if this is a "benchtop" model on a stand or a "real" jointer... would it be sturdy enough for effect use? I know the general consensus is that benchtop models are too lightweight, literally.

What about this one?

http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=941

I have a lead on one for $150 on Craigslist, used but well cared for.

** update **
Hmmm... when it rains it pours... just posted on Craigslist is also a Grizzly G1182Z in "excellent condition" for $200.

Seems like the Grizzly is the better deal, assuming both are in equally good shape... but what do I know? I'm asking the questions!! What do you say??

Thanks!

[LCHIEN]

About 2-3 years ago Delta changed their low end tools to a line called Shopmaster and replaced the xx-xxx numbering with AAnnn where AA is the tool type, DP, BS, TS, TP (thickness planer) and JT for jointer. I can never remember the old numbers.

The JT160 is the benchtop the JT360 is the floor standing one. I think you are probably right about the 37-190 bewing the floorstanding unit, I think the 37 was jointers and the 37-070 was the benchtop.

I have the JT360, it's a servicable unit. I don't have any real dislikes except the dust capturing system is a little leaky, chips come out gaps all over the back - the Dust chute gets 90-99% but theres still a small pile of chips around after you're done. I haven't used any but the becnhtop to compare. But I think the unit works well.

I'm sure the grizz is fine, too. For me I wanted a floorstanding unit, name brand, 46-48 inch table and cheap as possible, with last spring's rebates and discounts I got mine for around $255. Weighs 220 lbs. I thought about the griz units, but shipping would have killed the deal, not to mention having to be home to help unload the beast from the truck.

So either one would be a bargain for you, can't really go wrong with either. Jointers are simple, just have to have the tables sliding, blade accessible, motor working (low vibration is a good sign), and tables flat, planar and level.

[Knottscott]

Both are functional machines and both should be worth the asking price if they're in good condition. The Griz has a few design advantages and no disadvantages I can think of... the enclosed base, larger motor (1hp vs 3/4), and a more substantial fence. Whether or not it's worth the $50 premium is an executive decision for you to make. I'd likely go with the Griz.





http://www.epinions.com/content_55988031108

[LCHIEN]

Given the choice, and them being more or less equal in condition, I'd go with the grizzly, myself even for $50 more. It's a little better machine like DM says, with the
closed base and more powerful motor.

[davidtu]

OK, got a call into the guy w/ the Grizzly, he is holding it for me. I will go and check it out today.

BUT... my fiance who is the only one between us who has used a jointer, cannot come with me. SO....

Can anyone offer some tips on how to check out the unit??

And one other thing... can I get this into a Subaru Forester? I assume its reasonable to detach the stand? Any hang ups there?

Thanks!
David

[Knottscott]

Set the infeed and outfeed tables to the same height and place a straight edge across them and check that the two tables are flat and coplaner. Check that the fence is flat too. Spin the cutterhead and listen for bearing issues or binding.

It'll be a little heavy to load into a Forrester, but the fence assembly removes easily (~ 35#), and the jointer comes off the base. You can probably remove the motor too, but I doubt you'll need to

[LarryG]

Also take an engineer's or combination square along with you and check the fence at intervals along the tables. Any deviation from square at any point will indicate that either the fence or the tables aren't true across their narrow dimensions.

Check the fence operation, and run the infeed table up and down, to make sure it adjusts smoothly.

[davidtu]

Thanks guys! That's a great help. I presume if any of these checks don't check-out OK then I walk?

Spin the cutterhead and listen for bearing issues or binding.

--do you mean spin it by hand? I presume a bearing issue would be squeaky or clunky... something obvious?

UH.... and no one suggested turning it on--I think I'll add that to the list!

[Knottscott]

Thanks guys! That's a great help. I presume if any of these checks don't check-out OK then I walk?



--do you mean spin it by hand? I presume a bearing issue would be squeaky or clunky... something obvious?

UH.... and no one suggested turning it on--I think I'll add that to the list!

Plug it in if possible and run it. If not, just spin it from the pulley or belt by hand.