Triton Router - bit slippage!

[RodKirby]

I think someone else complained about this

I've just set up my new Triton router in it's new Table and had to rout some slots - using the 1/4" reducer sleeve - a PITA! I think the thing does not tighten enough.

Even after careful slot alignment with the 1/2" collet, and "solid" tightening, and "solid" pressure on the locking lever; the spiral bit I used, rode up as the router was running.

I will confirm this with some more testing. I'm also going to try the original (Bigger router) reducer - it's different from the new one.

Anyone else experienced this?

[jnesmith]

Not with the Triton Rod. I don't have one. I did, however, have that very thing happen to me once with my Hitachi. Similar to you, I was routing slots with a 1/8" spiral bit. Fortunately, I had my eyes on the work and my hand out harm's way. Saw the bit sneaking up through the top of the work piece. If I was slower shutting things down, all sorts of things could have happened, and none of them good.

I was using a 1/4" to 1/2" collet adaptor. As a general rule I hate those things. I am much more comfortable with a 1/2" bits.

[Joe DeFazio]

Hi Rod,

I don't have a Triton Router, But I'll add that the current issue of Workbench magazine (which I got free thanks to other BT'ers) mentions this problem with the Triton TRC001 plunge router in a plunge router shootout article. So, I don't think that it's just your particular machine that has this problem.

The article states that they also had one instance of bit slippage with a 1/2" bit, in addition to one with the 1/4" reducer sleeve. Kinda scary! I wouldn't keep a router that was prone to bit slippage -- too dangerous for me.

Btw, to recap their review of the router in question, they didn't like the control ergonomics or the reducer sleeve, but liked the bit changing, router table suitability, and dust collection.

Good luck with it,
Joe

[RayintheUK]

On the larger machine, with the Hitachi-style collet, I've used the supplied 1/4" reducer (with the circlip depth-stop) without any problems whatsoever. Similarly, the 1/2" collet itself has been rock solid.

On the smaller machine, with the self-releasing style collet, I've used the same reducer and an 8mm reducer of a different style (from a Ryobi RE601E) without any problems.

Maybe I'm more "heavy-handed" when it comes to tightening, but - as I said - I've never had any problems at all.

Ray.

[LCHIEN]

I think someone else complained about this

I've just set up my new Triton router in it's new Table and had to rout some slots - using the 1/4" reducer sleeve - a PITA! I think the thing does not tighten enough.

Even after careful slot alignment with the 1/2" collet, and "solid" tightening, and "solid" pressure on the locking lever; the spiral bit I used, rode up as the router was running.

I will confirm this with some more testing. I'm also going to try the original (Bigger router) reducer - it's different from the new one.

Anyone else experienced this?

Rod, I think I have heard this mentioned, that using spiral upcut bits the spiral pushes material up but the router bit is equally pulled downwards (away from the router). I imagine this force is strong and continuous therefore resulting in the bit being pullled from the collet. Almost assuredly the force is proportional to the force with which the bit is fed into the wood, therefore slower and less forceful feeding may mitigate this. Also taking smaller bites (depth) per pass would reduce the length of the spiral engaged and also reduce the tendency to pull out of the collet.
Were you feeding hard, fast and taking a large cut?

A 1/4" spiral upcut bit with a 1/2" shank is more expensive (if you can find one), but the torque being the same, the force at the outer radius of the shank will be less, also affording better hold on the bit.

[Ken Massingale]

Rod,
Were you using an Upcut or Downcut spiral bit? Upcuts are recommended for table use. This is from the Eagle America site:


Up-cut Bits provide faster cutting while they pull chips up and out of the work or towards the router. They are excellent bits to use when cutting material in a table mounted router. They hold the work piece to the router. Ideal for mortise and tenon, grooving, slotting or routing deep blind holes.

Down-cut Bits cut slower and push chips away from the router to eliminate top surface splintering. Use for pattern cutting or when going completely through the board as it allows clear vision of the cutting line. Ideal for fine finish work such as veneers, laminates, inlays and repairs because they prevent upper edge tear outs. Use Down-cuts for trimming and sizing.

I had the same issue a few months ago on the router table and was using a Downcut bit. Bought an Upcut and haven't had this problem again.
Seeing the bit come through the stock will definitely increase the pucker factor!

[bigsteel15]

I think someone else complained about this

That was possibly me Rod. Awhile back I sent you a PM to ask you about it, but this was using a 3/4" dado bit in the big boy, handheld.
I've since paid attention to making sure I tighten very well.