Router Poll 5: Handheld vs Table Usage?

[LarryG]

How much of your routing is done by hand, how much on a router table?

There are a few ways these percentages might be quantified -- time the router is actually running, board feet of lumber, etc -- but I'm most interested in a simple breakdown of the total operations done with each method. For example, if a given project had 10 boards that required routing of any kind, and you did four of them by hand and six on the table, that's a 40/60 split. Things like bit size, bit type, and number of passes required to complete a cut don't matter.

Thank you for your participation!

[LCHIEN]

where's the poll?

[Tom Miller]

where's the poll?

Wait for it....



(Seems to be a delay between post and poll -- I noticed this on the last one.)

Regards,
Tom

[Knottscott]

I voted 10% handheld, 90% table, but I think most of that 10% handheld came during my first year or two before building a decent router table. The table gives me better control and usually better DC, and the vast majority can be done with the table.

[LarryG]

(Seems to be a delay between post and poll -- I noticed this on the last one.)

Unless there's some other way I've not yet found, the explanatory message that starts the thread has to be composed and posted before you can start composing the poll itself.

Actually, I presumed checking the box for the poll option meant the new thread would not be posted until both steps were complete. Guess not.

[JimD]

I agree that the better the router table is and the more experienced you are, the more you will do on the table. There are some things better done hand-held, however. I made 4 oak chairs for our kitchen, for instance, which have 22 mortise and tenon joints in each chair. I cut all the mortises with a jig and my PC plunge router. They would have been more difficult to do on the router table. I make shelf holes in cabinets using a different jig with a plunge router. In general, the bigger the piece I am working on, the more likely it is going to get routed with a hand-held router. My current sub-project is to make a couple bed rails (the footboard and headboard are done). A chamfer detail on the top and bottom of each rail was done on the router table even though the pieces are fairly large (5 3/4 by 1 inch by 6 foot 6 inches). The recess for the fastener will get cut into the end of each rail with a hand-held router. It's nice to have good examples of each type (and enough routers you do not have to swap things around).

Jim

[GeekMom]

100% handheld since I don't yet have a table. I'm finding there are some cuts that I need to make that simply aren't safe handheld, though.

[LCHIEN]

I agree that the better the router table is and the more experienced you are, the more you will do on the table. There are some things better done hand-held, however. I made 4 oak chairs for our kitchen, for instance, which have 22 mortise and tenon joints in each chair. I cut all the mortises with a jig and my PC plunge router. They would have been more difficult to do on the router table. I make shelf holes in cabinets using a different jig with a plunge router. In general, the bigger the piece I am working on, the more likely it is going to get routed with a hand-held router. My current sub-project is to make a couple bed rails (the footboard and headboard are done). A chamfer detail on the top and bottom of each rail was done on the router table even though the pieces are fairly large (5 3/4 by 1 inch by 6 foot 6 inches). The recess for the fastener will get cut into the end of each rail with a hand-held router. It's nice to have good examples of each type (and enough routers you do not have to swap things around).

Jim

I have a simpler explanation. I think the issue is again, moving tool vs moving wood.

I've explained before that for small crosscuts where the wood is easily handled, the Table saw is good for crosscuts, but then you're tlaking about swinging 6 ft lengths or more around, the Compoun miter saw (moving saw, fixed wood) comes to the fore.

Like wise small panels, table saw. Large panels, think hand held circular saw or even a panel saw where the wood is still and the saw moves.

In routers, if the workpiece is small, then use the router table. If the workpiece is very large, then its advisable to move the router. So rounding over individual legs in preassembly - use the table. Rounding over the top of a dining table where its already attached to the apron and legs, handheld router.

Simple!

[vaking]

I agree with Loring about moving wood vs moving tool - you want to move the one that is lighter. I also want to add that dividing line between router in the hand vs router in a table is not as clear as it seems. For example I make all mortizes with the jig I made following some magazine article awhile back. The jig (actually a fixture) secures the work piece and provides guidance for the router at the same time, router path is well confined - in a way it is similar to a table. It took me longer to make the jig than to make a table but now mortizes come out cleaner on the jig than in a table. Stricktly speaking router table is a fixture too. In my opinion the opposite of router table is a freehand routing and I don't do any of this. I tried once routing without any guide - no thank you.

[softop41]

router table

moving the wood is my favorite way! If I have to move the router, I think real hard to see if I could do it on a different machine. I have several jigs for handheld routing but so far I haven't seen had to use them. Maybe in the future, when my project scope expands after I get my new shop built.
YMMV
Jerry

[dwolsten]

I just recently got my PC 890 router mounted in my BT3100 table, and am finding it extremely useful and wondering how I got along without it before. It makes it extremely simple to perform various operations (chamfers, sliding dovetails, dados, rabbets, etc.) on smaller pieces of wood.

Just be careful to keep your fingers away from the bit. When I was very new to it, I somehow (don't really remember how) managed to stick my finger into the bit. Luckily I just got a tiny cut, but it taught me a lesson. Actually, two lessons. The first, obviously, is to be extremely careful when the router is on and keep your fingers away. The second is that the fence set-up provided in the Ryobi accessory kit is extremely poor. I recommend building a better one.

[LCHIEN]

I agree with Loring about moving wood vs moving tool - you want to move the one that is lighter. ....

not necessarily lighter ... less awkward is a better criteria.

For roundovers, for example, sometimes holding a lightweight router and keeping it square to the work is awkward while a medium sized box, though heavy, will sit nicely on the table and be quite stable and you can guide it against a fence or bearing quite easily.

[drumpriest]

I put about 50/50, but it so much depends upon the project. Here are some examples.

1. Side table - 16 mortises, round overs, splines, etc... Probably about 50/50, I route mortises for loose m&t.

2. Desk top - almost entirely hand held. jointed the pieces with a hand router, profiled hand held, etc... It's just too big.

3. Armour - Mostly on the table, broken up into 2 smaller sections it's all easily managed on the router table. Doors require all kinda table routing.

So it would really depend upon the project.

[ElRay]

Need one more option

I really needed a "100% Handheld, because I haven't built a Router Fence yet." option.

[bigsteel15]

I put 30% HH and 70% table because that is what I will ultimately do when I get my table finished.
Right now, I would say the otehr way around, becasue I consider DT jig the same as using a table.

BTW, when I took a short beginner course at Lee Valley, the instructor made a point of stating that NO routing is done without a guide of some kind, except using a very small router for sign making. Even then, you need a very steady hand.
We did a test where we used our own router (I only had my monster Triton then) to try and make a 1/8" deep x 1/2" wide dado in a board completely freehand. There wasn't a single groove that would accept the shelf board for more than 1" long.
We were not allowed to mention the word "table" during the course. No cookie at break if you said table.