snipe effect in planer

[xli1]

I have a delta TP305 thickness planer. But it is kind of annoying that I always get about 2" snipe on both ends of the stock. This wastes a lot of material since I have to cut it out, especially when I plane wide board that is pre-cut to the size. I have tried to feed a short (about 8 - 10") stock with the same thickness before the stock I am going to plane and one after immediately after. This seems to work in many cases, but sometime I still can not avoid it. I don't know anyone here knows how to avoid this kind of effect? Are there any other brands with similar price range do not have snipe effect?

[LCHIEN]

I have a delta TP305 thickness planer. But it is kind of annoying that I always get about 2" snipe on both ends of the stock. This wastes a lot of material since I have to cut it out, especially when I plane wide board that is pre-cut to the size. I have tried to feed a short (about 8 - 10") stock with the same thickness before the stock I am going to plane and one after immediately after. This seems to work in many cases, but sometime I still can not avoid it. I don't know anyone here knows how to avoid this kind of effect? Are there any other brands with similar price range do not have snipe effect?

IIRC that unit does not have a cutterhead lock. A cutterhead lock and a four-post construction does a lot to reduce it greatly but does not 100% eliminate it. Those features are found in the more expensive units.

[Ken Weaver]

Check your infeed and out feed tables - they may not be set right. Check your manual. Otherwise, give the rollers a good cleaning. I have the Ridgid and the only time I get any snipe is when I don't clean the rollers regularly.

[Pappy]

Check your infeed and out feed tables - they may not be set right. Check your manual.

Try adjusting the infeed/outfeed with the nickel method. Adjust the tables so a sraight edge resting on the ends of the tables is the height of a nickel in the center.

[bmyers]

all that and get a piece of melamine 3-4 feet long and use it as the bed. Make a stop on the infeed side to rest against the infeed table edge (so as not to get sucked through also...)

[Deadhead]

Try adjusting the infeed/outfeed with the nickel method. Adjust the tables so a sraight edge resting on the ends of the tables is the height of a nickel in the center.

Are you saying make the tables higher than the center? Could you elaborate some more on this? I have snipe with my AP1300.

[Ken Weaver]

Are you saying make the tables higher than the center?

Yes - slightly, the thickness of a nickel is a rule of thumb. Other wise there's no pressure to keep the board against the blades and rollers.

[xli1]

Thanks for the input. I have done some research on internet. Here are several articles talking about this:

http://www.woodezine.com/08_2004/0804_snipe.html

http://www.newwoodworker.com/plnrsuprt.html

http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...n=Custom&ID=67

The snipe effect is limitation of the planer design. A cutterhead lock and a four-post construction do help but can not completely solve the problem. People have come out several ways to minimize the snipe, but seems none of them can eliminate it. What I am thinking is that the combination of all these tricks will reduce the snipe effect to a minimum. Here is what you can do:

1. adjust the infeed and outfeed table to be slight higher than the center (nickel method);
2. extend the infeed and outfeed table for better support, so you can have at least several feet on both sides;
3. feed scrap piece of wood (about 8-10" long) with the same thickness immediately before and after your stock. People are glue the scrap piece to the both ends of the stock, which I think is not necessary, it also increase the amout of effort.

Hopefully this will help solve the problem.