Looking for a router bit.

[betacrash]

i am looking for a router bit that can cut a diamond profile. i drew up a picture of what it would look like. i got retardedly elaborate withe the second one. please let me know if this exist, what it is called and where I might find it. Thanks! -Shawn

[burrellski]

The closest thing I can think of is a butterfly spline bit. They are available in a few different configs that might get you close?

http://www.freudtools.com/woodworker...ovetail_1.html

Matt

[betacrash]

well, i need to tap a peice of square stock (metal or hard wood) into it.

[bigsteel15]

This one (a) will get you as close as I can think of. You may have to do a little handwork.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...168,46176&ap=1

[Stormbringer]

Beta,

I don't know if it's safe but what about using two bits?

A deep pass with a V Groove




and then a shallow pass with a wide diameter dovetail



I think this would create the exact groove your looking for. Obviously an initial pass with a straight bit would be best to hog out the bulk and make a path for the V Groove shank.

Good Luck!
Greg

[LarryG]

I don't recall ever seeing a bit like that (although I certainly don't pretend to have seen them all).

How big is this thing? One problem is that the entire cut will have to be done in a single pass, and it'll be be removing a LOT of material, which will place a LOT of stress on the shank. (I suppose you could remove a small amount of material by making an initial pass with a straight bit, no wider than the gap at top, but the bulk of the material will still have to be removed in a single pass.)

EDIT: I thought about the exact same idea Greg describes, but you'd need a 45deg dovetail bit ... and I'm not sure those exist.

[LCHIEN]

I don't recall ever seeing a bit like that (although I certainly don't pretend to have seen them all).

How big is this thing? One problem is that the entire cut will have to be done in a single pass, and it'll be be removing a LOT of material, which will place a LOT of stress on the shank. (I suppose you could remove a small amount of material by making an initial pass with a straight bit, no wider than the gap at top, but the bulk of the material will still have to be removed in a single pass.)

EDIT: I thought about the exact same idea Greg describes, but you'd need a 45deg dovetail bit ... and I'm not sure those exist.

Actually I though about making this cut
step 1) use the table saw to cut 45° bevel undercuts. Make take two passes each direction and involve resetting the depth on the second cut, or using a dado blade.
----//\\----

step 2) use a straight bit with a 90 degree V-pointed end to put the V-bottom on the bottom.
----/ \----
......V

This all depends upon the mouth opening required at the top, whether its doable and it'll be a big PITA to do. And unless it done perfectly the walls may not be smooth.

[Thom2]

My thoughts ....

one of these ....
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...band_sale.html


some real careful measuring, edge work on two seperate pieces and glue-up to achieve the end result.

Like Larry, I'd have some serious concerns about making this cut in one pass.

[Tom Miller]

If I had to try and make that profile, I'd rip the starting board in two. Then use conventional means (i.e. non-through cut bevel rips on the TS), and rejoin.

Regards,
Tom
Edit: Looks like two T(h)oms are homing in on the perfect solution!

[LCHIEN]

Two more thoughts:

1) depending upon the length required, a mortising machine into the end of the piece,
2) probably the best, cut the workpiece in half, make two 90° V grooves and glue it back together. If you can live with the seam, this will be the easiset, safest and most attractive way.(oops, missed the 2 toms' post, That's exactly what I'm suggesting).

[betacrash]

the piece that i am going through is about 3.25" thick. I think that the mortise would be the best so far. I was trying to find a router bit because I am using a cnc router and it would have made things a lot easier. The square stock that i am going to tap through would be between 3/8" and 1/2".

[scorrpio]

I can see several approaches.
First, is 'fake it'.

Does the square piece have to slide in this groove or will it be set in place? It is is not going to move, I'd cut a simple dado, and trim the square stock so it fits into the dado.

Otherwise, I'd start with a couple bevelled dadoes, and then use a V-groove bit for the bottom.

[JR]

...I am using a cnc router and it would have made things a lot easier.

No kidding!

So, how about a version of Scorrpio's advice?

Start with a straight bit (1/8" or 1/4"? whatever works for the clearance you want at the top) at +- 45deg to form the two angled sides, then run a v-groove bit straight through.

JR

[Thom2]

I overengineered in my first post .... the more I thought about it, you wouldn't even need that specialty bit from MLCS if you ripped the piece in half, you could stand each half on edge and use a conventional v-groove bit to get the same results.

[LarryG]

Now that we know the dimensions, a mortiser is going to be quickest and easiest, I think. Since the square stock that will fill the hole is only 3/8" to 1/2" on a side, and assuming the sketch's proportions are reasonably correct, the slot at the top isn't going to be big enough to allow even a 1/4" shank to pass. There are bits that neck down smaller than 1/4", but none I know of that are anything close to the right profile. IOW, I don't think there's any way this can be done with the workpiece in a single piece, no matter how many passes are made with how many bits.

If there's no square mortising chisel handy, one of the various methods of cutting half the profile in two separate pieces and then gluing them together will be the next best way.