Setting depth of Jointer knifes

[kzelenakas]

Anyone have a simple yet accurate way to set consistent knife depth on a jointer. I am having a difficult time getting all three knifes level and the same cutting depth on the 4" Enco Jointer. I do not have the manual, so any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks,

Kevin

[JimD]

Kevin,

It takes me a long time to set my Inca. I put a straight edge on the outfeed table and adjust the knives to just barely touch the straight edge on both sides. It takes a lot of trial and error. I have seen jigs for this with magnets that hold the knives in the correct position but with my Inca, I cannot get to the screws that fix the knives in position with the knives at their full up position.

Jim

[rickd]

kevin,

i adjust the knives on my ridgid jointer the same way as jim - i make sure i do it when i have time and when i'm feeling very patient. i've used jigs too, including a pretty good glass and earth magnet one, but in the end it still comes down to carefully adjusting and tightening the screws.

last time i adjusted my knives i put a straight-edge on it's edge, supported by two small blocks of wood and, like jim, adjusted the knives until they just skimmed the straigt-edge without lifting it. that seemed to work better for me than a flat straight edge - only took about 30 minutes!

[LCHIEN]

This is simple and accurate but not cheap ($80):
A dial gauge adapter that is meant to allow you to set jointer knife height.
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=21585




I have a much simpler version also much, much cheaper I will try and post a picture of tonight. It's based on those $6.99 Harbor Freight dial indicators which are a very good bargain for the money.

And works every bit as well. You still have to fiddel with the knife setting - some jointers have a jack screw you turn and the when the blade is at the right height, you set another screw to lock the height. It still take some trial and error, since there are jack screws at both ends when yoiu set one end, it affects the other until they get close to zero error and no tilt.
And then you have to do the other two blades. Eventually as you get better and get the hang of it, it'll come in pretty quick for you.

But I think nothing beats the dial guge for setting these.

[Tom Miller]

...there are jack screws at both ends when yoiu set one end, it affects the other...

Not to mention when you tighten down the lock screws, it can cause the blade to shift slightly (a few mils, at least).

But I think nothing beats the dial guge for setting these.

Yep, what he said!

Regards,
Tom

[LCHIEN]

I said I would post a DIY jointer dial jig - here it is.
Basically I took a longish (12") block of laminated wood and carefully planed the bottom side until it was as close to dead flat as I could make it. Then I cut a "tenon"-like projection on the end (using the band saw)
drilled a 3/8" hole for the dial gauge stem, and then used the bandsaw again to split the tenon. I drilled in the outside end of the tenon (can't see in the illustration) a pilot hole and then a clearance hole concentric with it but only half way through. A screw in this hole engages the far side and pulls the split together gently to hold the Dial Indicator stem.
This is also a great table saw blade height and router bit height gauge, if you leave enough travel.

To use the gauge, you need to replace the common round-point contact on the end of the probe with a flat contact THAT IS PARALLEL TO THE TABLE TOP. I bought some - they have an unusual 4-48 thread and are not cheap after shipping. My advise would be to simply get a flat disk, set it on top of a flat table (like the jointer top), place a drop of CA glue or epoxy in the center of the disk, then set the dial gauge point in the center of the glue and let it set up this way.

Set the disk on the jointer outfeed table top and set the nearest zero under the dial using the lock screw on the outside of the gauge and the rotating bezel. The .100" counter dial doesn't matter, we're looking for .010" and less change.
With the flat disk contact, you can place the dial gauge on any sharp or pointed tip and read the maximum height. In this case place it on the tip of the jointer blade, rock the blade carrier back and forth to find the highest point. Adjust the blade to make it near zero +/- .001, lock in place gently. Note the change when you lock it, do the other end, lock it. repeat both sides taking into account the shift when you lock it, until you get it as close as you want. then tighten both set screws, repeat for the other two blades.

[jnesmith]

This is the method I use:

http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...n=Custom&ID=61


It can be tedious though. You definitely need ot be in a good mood and have some time on your hads.

Next time I need to set mine, I think I will make a doohicky like Loring's.