Used Ridgid Bandsaw New Motor Question

[sacherjj]

I have lined up a used Ridgid bandsaw BS1400 for a very, very good price. It is a friend of mine and he is frustrated with it and the motor that has pooped out on it. He didn't file the lifetime paperwork. Basically he has a little too much money to burn and is just upgrading and is almost giving it to me.

I took measurements and the 1 HP motor I have will fit. Both are CCW rotation, but the 1 HP is double the speed (1800 vs 3600). This will work, if I get a pulley that is twice the circumference as the pulley on the original motor, right?

The rest of the saw is in great condition, so I think a 1 HP motor should make this pretty nice saw. I would just have to wire the motor to the old switch.

[Thom2]

Doubling the pulley on the motor will actually increase the speed, because you're getting closer to a 1/1 ratio of motor/driven speed.

(Motor Speed)x(Drive Pulley Diameter)/(Driven Pulley Diameter)

On the Ridgid, (if memory serves me correctly), the Drive Pulley is 2.5", the Driven Pulley is 6" .... (1725*2.5)/6= 719 rpm at the driven shaft.

To use a 3450 motor, you'd have to either cut the size of the drive pulley in half or double the size of the driven pulley (or a combination of both) ***I used standard pulley sizes for example, you won't get the correct rpm for 2700fpm with these sizes***

1" drive pulley and 6" driven pulley (3450*1)/6=575
2" drive pulley and 12" driven pulley (3450*2)/12=575
1.5" drive pulley and 9" driven pulley (3450*1.5)/9=575

I think you're going to have a hard time accomplishing this tho', if memory serves me correctly a 9" pulley is pushing the limits of available space on the driven shaft.

IMO you're better off to find a motor that spins 1725, but you could accomplish enough reduction with the 3450 if you used an idler shaft with 2 different pulley diameters. This would require 2 belts and some engineering, nothing rocket science about it, just a little more work than it's worth IMO.

[gsmittle]

Wouldn't the pulley have to be half the size?

g.

[Thom2]

Just food for thought .... a 3450 motor with a 4" pulley driving a 6" pulley will yield about 8,400fpm blade speed on a 14" saw ..... I literally THREW the top tire off of my Ridgid one time at somewhere around the 4,000fpm mark.

If you're gonna throw the switch on that puppy, you better be doin' it on a fly-by as you head for cover!!!!

[sacherjj]

You guys are right, I was thinking the opposite math. Pulley size on the driven wheel, not the motor. Well, shoot. I didn't look at the second pulley, but I the motor pulley was under 2.5". I think it is closer to 1" or 1.5". That just makes it harder. I was basing my logic on making the motor work, rather than if the motor would work.

I think I'll tell him that I'll get the bandsaw and work out the motor. Getting a replacement motor from Ridgid will probably still yield a great deal on a bigger saw. I probably can get something a little better than the original. No sense in putting 3/4 HP back on it.

[LCHIEN]

right - double the pulley size on the driven motor,
or go ~1.5x on the wheel and ~.66x on the motor

[jackellis]

I just bought a used Ridgid bandsaw from a luthier who needed a bigger saw "for show" and had purchased an 18" Jet. He'd replaced the stock motor on the Ridgid with a 1.5 hp unit and claimed the motor ran cooler and would live longer as a result. I don't know what motors cost but if you're going to resaw, you might as well buy the spare capacity if the added cost isn't too great.

[sacherjj]

I just bought a used Ridgid bandsaw from a luthier who needed a bigger saw "for show" and had purchased an 18" Jet. He'd replaced the stock motor on the Ridgid with a 1.5 hp unit and claimed the motor ran cooler and would live longer as a result. I don't know what motors cost but if you're going to resaw, you might as well buy the spare capacity if the added cost isn't too great.

Those are my thoughts exactly. I ordered the Grizzly 6" extension block and the saw is now sitting in the overfilled garage. It will have to wait until the shed gets finished before having much play time. Then I will have to figure out what to do with my Craftsman 10" Rikon Bandsaw. The only thing I didn't like about that little guy was the 4" resaw capacity. Anyone in Indy need a good starter bandsaw and a bunch of Carter and Timberwolf blades?

[LCHIEN]

danger of putting in bigger motors

One thing I would worry about (maybe it won't worry some people)
the componenets on the badnsaw are designed for the original motor size.

When you overload the motor, the drive train will seize up and the motor will stall and blow the circuit breaker to protect things.

When you sub a much larger motor the the drive train will bear the additional load becasue the motor will not stall. At some point something will give and its not the motor stalling out now. A belt may slip, or, it may break and whip out, or even the blade may break or the wheels may collapse under the load, possibly even the frame will give. (one scenario is where something get jammed in the spokes of a wheel).
So you are looking at the possibility of destroying the machine or injuring someone.
I'm not saying its going to happen, but you have greatly increased the
possibility.

[sacherjj]

I understand that possibility. My plan was to go with a 1 HP. With good Timberwolf blades, I think that will be sufficient. I'm amazed at what my little 10" 1/3 HP Craftsman will do with Timberwolf blades.

[Jim Boyd]

One thing I would worry about (maybe it won't worry some people)
the componenets on the badnsaw are designed for the original motor size.

When you overload the motor, the drive train will seize up and the motor will stall and blow the circuit breaker to protect things.

When you sub a much larger motor the the drive train will bear the additional load becasue the motor will not stall. At some point something will give and its not the motor stalling out now. A belt may slip, or, it may break and whip out, or even the blade may break or the wheels may collapse under the load, possibly even the frame will give. (one scenario is where something get jammed in the spokes of a wheel).
So you are looking at the possibility of destroying the machine or injuring someone.
I'm not saying its going to happen, but you have greatly increased the
possibility.

With the Ridgid that isn't likely to happen unless you rig a different way to tension the belt BTDT. I have had a 1.5 hp Baldor motor on mine for about 3 years now.

[sacherjj]

Warning: Big Gloat Ahead...

Well, I just finished cutting some wood with my newly aquired Ridgid 14" bandsaw. This guy has been a good friend of mine and I have done some decent favors for him a couple times, when we worked at the same place. The bottom line is that he has way too much money and loves toys.

I picked up the bandsaw on Saturday morning. I told him that I looked up motor prices and wasn't sure how much I could offer right now. He told me that I could have it. His wife made him buy a "tiny little 14" bandsaw". When he was ready to get a bandsaw, she asked around and found out that 14" is "all you really need". So he had to get a "small" one. Now that it broke, he showed her that he needs a "real" saw that will be a good investment and not just piss away money on a cheap little saw. Not sure which he is ordering, but I it probably has 18" wheels and cost as much as my car. Some people really do have too much money, and I love being friends with them.

He had it partially disassembled, and had used a homemade table for it instead of the stand. (He wanted it a little lower than the stand, being a short guy.) Luckily he had kept the stand and I assembled it first. I pulled the last HercuLift from the corner (being glad I picked up 3 of them...). The bolts for mount the saw to the stand were still in the blister pack, so I put that together.

I plugged in the motor and nothing. I checked all the wiring, but it was fine. I then powered up my 1 hp motor, while powering up the 3/4 hp BS motor on a 2x12 crude mounting bed. I bump started the 3/4 hp motor with a belt off the 1 hp motor. As soon as the starting circuit clutch clicked, the motor spun away. I pulled out the starting cap and replaced it with a starting cap on a junk motor I had, which was very close. I threw that in there and the motor was off and running. Fast startup in the saw and ran great. I felt bad and called my friend and offered him the saw back. He told me to enjoy it, as he will enjoy his new saw.

I decided that a Carter Tension Release will be my gift for this find, instead of spending nearly that much money on a new motor. Does the Ridgid normally come with a fence? He didn't have his, nor a miter gauge. It might be a little while before I get those, but I'm open to suggestions as to good after market versions of each.

Instead of selling my 10" Craftsman, I am giving it to my excited brother-in-law. He is delighted to get a bandsaw and hopefully my two nephews will get some good use out of it in the near future. Unfortunately, I just bought some nice new Timberwolf blades. But that is good for them.

This has been a balanced day, I give a finger a really nice slam with a 28oz Estwing and then get a full working bandsaw. (And a new Framing Nailer, but that actually cost me. See another post in this forum.)

[LCHIEN]

Warning: Big Gloat Ahead...
...
. Does the Ridgid normally come with a fence? He didn't have his, nor a miter gauge. It might be a little while before I get those, but I'm open to suggestions as to good after market versions of each.

Instead of selling my 10" Craftsman, I am giving it to my excited brother-in-law. He is delighted to get a bandsaw and hopefully my two nephews will get some good use out of it in the near future. Unfortunately, I just bought some nice new Timberwolf blades. But that is good for them.

This has been a balanced day, I give a finger a really nice slam with a 28oz Estwing and then get a full working bandsaw. (And a new Framing Nailer, but that actually cost me. See another post in this forum.)

Try the Kreg-marketed/Duginski-designed fence and accessories.
Go to WWW.Kregtools.com and search for KMS7200
I also recommend the accessory micro adjuster attachment, maybe you'll like the resaw fence attachment accessory.


Miter gage, IMHO almost any will do although you can spend big bucks for an Incra. I find I move much smaller items on the BS with the miter gage than I would with the same gage on a TS.